Why won't my new chainsaw just work?

Not a bit of it, Eddie.....regular buyers and other known customers just turn up, pay up and leave, saw tucked under their arm......and that includes me. They don't know that I have been trained - or not. (I have, as it happens).
A few minutes in the shop will probably enable you to start the thing up, but as for using it professionally that has to be out of their remit. Unbelievable really but that's how it is, I guess.
John :)
 
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Not a bit of it, Eddie.....regular buyers and other known customers just turn up, pay up and leave, saw tucked under their arm......and that includes me. They don't know that I have been trained - or not. (I have, as it happens).
A few minutes in the shop will probably enable you to start the thing up, but as for using it professionally that has to be out of their remit. Unbelievable really but that's how it is, I guess.
John :)

This is very true, TBF most of the safely using your saw aspects are fairly common sense, still doesn't make you proficient however, and in that respect I'd class myself as an improver.
 
I’ve been using these things for 40 years plus and every second is a risk....thankfully I’ve never had an issue with them but Im always glad when the job is done.
Its horrifying how many tree surgeons have chunks out of them though :eek:
John :)
 
I’ve been using these things for 40 years plus and every second is a risk....thankfully I’ve never had an issue with them but Im always glad when the job is done.
Its horrifying how many tree surgeons have chunks out of them though :eek:
John :)

Could be worse, could be a 9" angle grinder, now they really scare the c**p outta me.
 
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For sure, the torque reaction of these things is terrifying - I don’t have such a machine, preferring the 41/4” ones or a Stihl concreting saw.
Maybe the soft start models are safer, I wouldn’t know.
John :)
 
For the record my dealer did run through start up procedure. The only point in now confused on is that I'm sure Stihl online videos show starring with the brake ON so you don't have a full speed chain suddenly.
 
Maybe, the theory is just fine.....I'm well aware of the safety aspects.
However, the saw starts up at high speed, the centrifugal clutch tries to spin the blade along the bar - and can't, there is too much resistance and the engine wants to stall.
I will use that technique if I'm drop starting* the saw when up a tree, and its good and warm and ready to go but never from a cold start.
John :)
* Drop starting is when you have your hand on the recoil starter and you push the machine away from you as you pull.....for experienced people only!
J.
 
Just another comment if I may....have you tried starting the machine up with the chain bar off? No problem either way with that.
John :)
 
Maybe, the theory is just fine.....I'm well aware of the safety aspects.
However, the saw starts up at high speed, the centrifugal clutch tries to spin the blade along the bar - and can't, there is too much resistance and the engine wants to stall.
I will use that technique if I'm drop starting* the saw when up a tree, and its good and warm and ready to go but never from a cold start.
John :)
* Drop starting is when you have your hand on the recoil starter and you push the machine away from you as you pull.....for experienced people only!
J.

Very much so! and only really for light chainsaws, I wouldn't wanna drop start my 271, probably cut your hands off!
 
It definitely starts fine with brake on in the half choke switch selection, as I've been advised in the past the issue here is damaging the clutch.

I'm thinking this method is ok but you need to immediately press the throttle to release it... Then guage the throttle manually as it warms up.
 
So.....is everything OK now? I thought the saw wouldn't cooperate at all.
John :)
Unclear. Today it was happy but it had been run a lot this week. Will wait until next cold start after a period of non use to decide! Today it ran perfectly and was a joy to use (apart from the low level terror).
 
After a lay up, expect the saw to need maybe 6 pulls on the starter to get the first 'pop'......it has to pump fuel up from the tank hence the delay.
This does prove that there isn't a fault with the saw anyway.
Its always a good idea to inspect the air cleaner - under the plastic cover. If you have compressed air, its good to clean the dust away from that area too.
The MS series saws do have a tendency to block their oil pumps after little use - do check that there is delivery from time to time.....this is best done with the chain bar off where you can see the oil delivery hole.
Be safe and good cutting!
John :)
 

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