ColJack said:as pointed out, if you cut a moulded plug off the appliance then don't you invalidate it's warrantee?
also, some appliances come with short leads that make it hard for the more robust amongst us to crawl behind the appliance to plug/wire it in..
I personally prefer to see unswitched socket outlets ( with FCU / DP switch above work top ) fixed to the wall behind the adjacent cabinet with a hole cut into the back of the unit to access the plug should it ever need to be...
for those of you about to say that if i can put the plug through then I can get in to plug/wire it in, I tie a bit of string to the plug and put that through to pull it through later..
wiring to fcu's or flex outs or unswitched sockets behind the appliance still needs fcu's or switches above counter and then you have to drag the appliance out to change fuses etc..
circuit wise..
1 radial for the fridge/freezer - non RCD to prevent nuisance tripping..
1 ring for large appliances ( dishwasher / washing machine / dryer ) - RCD or NON... your choice..
1 ring for above counter appliances ( kettle / toaster / george forman grill / chip pan etc... )
1 radial ( 10mm ) for cooker ( even if gas, might want to change later )
Thanks for this advice. 2 ring circuits in the kitchen? What if you haven't the capacity on the consumer unit?
Also, I've posted another question in this forum regarding bathroom downlighters. Any chance of you clever bods letting me know your thoughts?
Thanks in anticipation
Brian