Wiring electric oven

[JohnAscott]

Hi all,
Currently in the process of having to wire in a new electric oven. The old oven is wired into a dual connection unit along with the electric hob. The instructions for the new oven state:

For 60cm BI appliance: 1. Where a fixed connection is used, a device allowing the appliance to be isolated on all poles from the mains supply with a contact opening width of at least 3mm must be provided. Use a 13 amp fuse. 2. A type HO5 V V-F cable must be used as the mains lead. The cross section must be a minimum of 1.5mm².

I'm taking that the oven is 60cm as I have measured the height and width which both appear to be near to 60cm. However, does this mean that the oven will need a 13a plug fitted and plugged into a 13a socket? I thought I could do this without worrying about Part P but i'm thinking otherwise now.

 

[EFLImpudence]

If it does need a plug, then it should come with one fitted.

Does the oven come with a flex and plug?

 

[endecotp]

For 60cm BI appliance: 1. Where a fixed connection is used, a device allowing the appliance to be isolated on all poles from the mains supply with a contact opening width of at least 3mm must be provided. Use a 13 amp fuse. 2. A type HO5 V V-F cable must be used as the mains lead. The cross section must be a minimum of 1.5mm².

does this mean that the oven will need a 13a plug fitted and plugged into a 13a socket?

The description sounds like an FCU with a 13A fuse to me.

If you use a plug and socket then it's not a "fixed connection", so presumably some other part of the instructions applies.

 

[JohnAscott]

If it does need a plug, then it should come with one fitted.

Does the oven come with a flex and plug?

From what I can gather from the pictures, the oven doesn't come with anything, just an empty terminal block. There are ovens on there that state plug pre-fitted so this is what made me think that this one was different. The oven should arrive on Tuesday.

The description sounds like an FCU with a 13A fuse to me.

If you use a plug and socket then it's not a "fixed connection", so presumably some other part of the instructions applies.

The instructions are very poorly written really. There isn't any further information on the installation of the oven. I was thinking that I could just use 6mm T+E from the dual cooker connection unit to the oven as then I wouldn't be using a smaller size cable? The existing oven is wired this way.

Many thanks.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

However, does this mean that the oven will need a 13a plug fitted and plugged into a 13a socket? I thought I could do this without worrying about Part P but i'm thinking otherwise now.

What is the make/model of the oven, have you a link to the installation manual.
Also all domestic electrical work will involve complying to part p, so worry away.

 

[JohnAscott]

What is the make/model of the oven, have you a link to the installation manual.
Also all domestic electrical work will involve complying to part p, so worry away.

http://www.stoves.co.uk/media/549804/ST-SEB600FP.pdf

These are the instructions, my interpretation was that if the oven could just be connected to the existing connection unit, then it wouldn't come under Part P, not sure if i'm wrong here.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

http://www.stoves.co.uk/media/549804/ST-SEB600FP.pdf

These are the instructions, my interpretation was that if the oven could just be connected to the existing connection unit, then it wouldn't come under Part P, not sure if i'm wrong here.

The MI states the output is 2.5kW-3kW, so that would suggest that a 13A FCU should be connected to the appliance flex, the flex specified will have a max current carrying capacity of no more than 15A.
It also asks for two pole isolation with 3mm contact opening, this could be either at a local cooker isolator or by using a switched FCU.

I assume your previous cooker had a higher output rating, if it was connected to a dual outlet plate.
What fuse rating does the existing cooker circuit have?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

my interpretation was that if the oven could just be connected to the existing connection unit, then it wouldn't come under Part P, not sure if i'm wrong here.

The oven is a fixed appliance, no matter how it is connected to a supply, and therefore Part P applies to it.

Part P (in fact all of the Building Regulations) applies to any work whatsoever on fixed electrical cables or fixed electrical equipment located on the consumer’s side of the electricity supply meter which operate at low or extra-low voltage and are—
(a) in or attached to a dwelling;
(b) in the common parts of a building serving one or more dwellings, but excluding power supplies to lifts;
(c) in a building that receives its electricity from a source located within or shared with a dwelling; or
(d) in a garden or in or on land associated with a building where the electricity is from a source located within or shared with a dwelling.

This is what Part P requires:



Whether it plugs in, or is wired to an FCU or a cooker outlet plate makes no difference - you need to make sure that you make reasonable provision for safety etc.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

It also asks for two pole isolation with 3mm contact opening, this could be either at a local cooker isolator or by using a switched FCU.

Or by using a plug and socket. Unplugging a plug is definitely 2-pole isolation, and is definitely ≥ 3mm.

 

[JohnAscott]

The MI states the output is 2.5kW-3kW, so that would suggest that a 13A FCU should be connected to the appliance flex, the flex specified will have a max current carrying capacity of no more than 15A.
It also asks for two pole isolation with 3mm contact opening, this could be either at a local cooker isolator or by using a switched FCU.

I assume your previous cooker had a higher output rating, if it was connected to a dual outlet plate.
What fuse rating does the existing cooker circuit have?

The plate on the existing oven states 2.5kw so i'm assuming that it was wired incorrectly in the first place. The cooker circuit is fed
by 6mm T+E from a 32A breaker.

The oven is a fixed appliance, no matter how it is connected to a supply, and therefore Part P applies to it.

Part P (in fact all of the Building Regulations) applies to any work whatsoever on fixed electrical cables or fixed electrical equipment located on the consumer’s side of the electricity supply meter which operate at low or extra-low voltage and are—
(a) in or attached to a dwelling;
(b) in the common parts of a building serving one or more dwellings, but excluding power supplies to lifts;
(c) in a building that receives its electricity from a source located within or shared with a dwelling; or
(d) in a garden or in or on land associated with a building where the electricity is from a source located within or shared with a dwelling.

This is what Part P requires:



Whether it plugs in, or is wired to an FCU or a cooker outlet plate makes no difference - you need to make sure that you make reasonable provision for safety etc.

Thanks, I wasn't aware of this.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

The plate on the existing oven states 2.5kw so i'm assuming that it was wired incorrectly in the first place. The cooker circuit is fed
by 6mm T+E from a 32A breaker.

As long as the cable to the oven is large enough to for fault protection to be a 32A MCB then it's fine.

 

[JohnAscott]

Thanks for all the help.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Or by using a plug and socket. Unplugging a plug is definitely 2-pole isolation, and is definitely ≥ 3mm.

It certainly would, but as the appliance is in excess of 2kW I steered away from making that suggestion.

 

[Iggifer]

It certainly would, but as the appliance is in excess of 2kW I steered away from making that suggestion.

IET don't seem bothered when it comes to cookers

don't ask me where it came from, but it looks like IET print to me