Wiring Extractor Fan - Plan B

[rawhead]

Forget the bathroom light (see earlier post //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1154815#1154815)
There is an unused switchable power supply in the loft (used to run a power shower that’s not needed after combi boler installation)

I have a 3 pole Fan Ceiling Pull Cord Switch (see here http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ASCS3PIF.html)

This has two sets of connectors marked as follows:

L1, L2 N and Earth

First question, which is the switchable live L1 or L2?
Also there is an IN and an OUT. Which way round do they go?

Secondly do I connect switched live and live to the same live point on the power source?


Cheers

Jon

 

[Steve]

its a 3 pole switch - ALL 3 POLES are switched.

Your timed fan wont work with this switch.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

There is an unused switchable power supply in the loft (used to run a power shower that’s not needed after combi boler installation)

If you mean "power shower" as in an instant-heat electric then it can't be used for the fan - the cable will be too big for the switch and fan terminals and the MCB rating will be higher than the one the manufacturer (probably) specifies for the fan.

First question, which is the switchable live L1 or L2?

You can use either, it's just an isolation switch.

It's not meant, of course, to control the operation of a timed-overrun fan.

Also there is an IN and an OUT. Which way round do they go?

As you contemplate this job, are you not concerned that you have so little basic knowledge that you can't grasp the concept of a cable coming into the switch and then going out to the appliance it serves?

Because I am...

Secondly do I connect switched live and live to the same live point on the power source?

Yes, if you don't want the timed-overrun feature, but if that's the case you could have bought a cheaper fan.

If you do want it to run on then of course you need a permanent live supply to it as well as a switched one.

The diagram for the fan makes it all clear.

Forget the bathroom light (see earlier post //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1154815#1154815)[/QUOTE]
No, I'm not going to forget that - I'm going to read that, and this one, and tell you that you don't yet know anywhere near enough to be doing this work.

You are lacking some very basic and fundamental knowledge which you must have before you can competently do things.

You need to click here, and put the fan fitting on hold until you know what you are doing, or if it can't wait you need to click here.

 

[ericmark]

There is an unused switchable power supply in the loft (used to run a power shower that’s not needed after combi boler installation)

If you mean "power shower" as in an instant-heat electric then it can't be used for the fan - the cable will be too big for the switch and fan terminals and the MCB rating will be higher than the one the manufacturer (probably) specifies for the fan.

He said a combi boiler replaced is so I would have though he really meant a power shower i.e. little pump which powered the shower not heated water and normally around 5A so should be OK.

First question, which is the switchable live L1 or L2?

You can use either, it's just an isolation switch.

It's not meant, of course, to control the operation of a timed-overrun fan.

Why not it is surly designed exactly for that although in this case I would agree not required to have three poles one would have to fit two pole light switch instead as you pointed out to me in the past ideal where 3A max to fan.

Also there is an IN and an OUT. Which way round do they go?

As you contemplate this job, are you not concerned that you have so little basic knowledge that you can't grasp the concept of a cable coming into the switch and then going out to the appliance it serves?

Because I am...

Secondly do I connect switched live and live to the same live point on the power source?

Yes, if you don't want the timed-overrun feature, but if that's the case you could have bought a cheaper fan.

If you do want it to run on then of course you need a permanent live supply to it as well as a switched one.

The diagram for the fan makes it all clear.

Forget the bathroom light (see earlier post //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1154815#1154815)[/QUOTE]
No, I'm not going to forget that - I'm going to read that, and this one, and tell you that you don't yet know anywhere near enough to be doing this work.

You are lacking some very basic and fundamental knowledge which you must have before you can competently do things.

You need to click here, and put the fan fitting on hold until you know what you are doing, or if it can't wait you need to click here.

Maybe a little harsh but yes if one can't read the instructions that come with the fans and understand them one should not be doing the job.
It is people who have done daft things in the past which has caused Part P to be introduced and it seems from this post it is the very people who it was designed to stop who carry on regardless and it is the people who never had a problem in first place who are stopped.

As to link very confusing it is not what the IET/BS regs call a Competent Person I am a Competent Person however I am not a Registered Person and although I do not agree with the definitions given in the BS7671 as to difference between skilled and Competent Person I have to still follow it and the same goes for Line and Live and Low Voltage and Extra Low Voltage.

 

[rawhead]

He said a combi boiler replaced is so I would have though he really meant a power shower i.e. little pump which powered the shower not heated water and normally around 5A so should be OK.

Spot on

I'd like to think I'm competent, just ignorant of electronics. I need to know what to connect from the fan to the switch. And then from the switch to the electric supply.

3 X 4 connection points.

If you think I need a sparky for that, then I'll get a sparky in.
Just trying to save a few bob. I obviously don't want to kill myself or someone else in the process....

 

[ericmark]

OK special for you standard wiring would be

Standard Lighting

• ericmark
• 17 Aug 2008
• 13

Standard lighting diagram

But so you can use the old supply I have altered to

Standard Lights wiring diag

• ericmark
• 1 Mar 2009
• 2

old wires shown as dashed wiring in order to wire this way you need a double pole switch and I think only way is to use grid switch so something like and also and will be required click on picture for details.