Wiring for a Fridge

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After reading some topice her I am convinced that I need a seperate circuit for the fridge. I have a split load, 5RCD + 5 non-RCD. I have a spare 16A MCB on the non-RCD side so I think I can run a cable from here to the fridge. The question, is it ok to use 1.5mm T&E and that this can be radial, i.e. not a ring circuit. Only the fridge (American side by side) will be used on this circuit and perhaps the burgular alarm which runs on low voltage.
Thanks in advance
 
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Shafty-Bobs said:
After reading some topice her I am convinced that I need a seperate circuit for the fridge. I have a split load, 5RCD + 5 non-RCD. I have a spare 16A MCB on the non-RCD side so I think I can run a cable from here to the fridge. The question, is it ok to use 1.5mm T&E and that this can be radial, i.e. not a ring circuit. Only the fridge (American side by side) will be used on this circuit and perhaps the burgular alarm which runs on low voltage.
Thanks in advance

you do not have to put the fridge on a seperate circuit, however its sometimes a good idea so that if the RCD trips, you dont loose power to the fridge
 
Shafty-Bobs said:
The question, is it ok to use 1.5mm T&E and that this can be radial, i.e. not a ring circuit. Only the fridge (American side by side) will be used on this circuit and perhaps the burgular alarm which runs on low voltage.
Thanks in advance

No, it will have to be a minimum of 2.5mm² T&E. It does not have to be wired as a ring. As you are only using it for the above appliances a 16A circuit should be fine as long as the length of cable run is not over 33m and it is not likely to be used to power appliances outside the house.
 
1.5mm is marginal. depending on installation method it may be ok but frankly i would just use 2.5mm and be on the safe side.
 
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There is no conventional circuit for a radial 16A 1.5mm² T&E cable in the on site guide. I personally would not use 1.5mm² T&E for this, I would use 2.5mm² T&E as to ensure volt drop within limits and the earth fault loop impedance low enough for the 0.4s disconnection time assuming a TN-S or a TN-CS supply.
 
Out of interest, If I have TN wiring and an RCD on the entire house, could the fridge and to that matter smoke alarms be wired from a non-rcd fuseway??

Its balanced risk I guess, no RCD cover vs. the effects of a power cut?
 
I didn't think we were supposed to connect smoke alarms through an RCD in a TN system, although this is only in the on site guide.
 
Best way is a B16 MCB, feeding a Min of 2.5.sq.mm. cable, to a 13amp Fuse-Connection Unit beside the Fridge/Freezer, and then 1.5.sq.mm. flex to the Fridge itself - safest way, and complies with BS7671:2001 too.

If the cable run is very long, you may need 4mm cable.
 
"I didn't think we were supposed to connect smoke alarms through an RCD in a TN system, although this is only in the on site guide."

I have the problems as follows you see..

1. I want to fit mains smoke alarms (interlinked) for maximum safety and compliance with modern regs (when this property was built I suspect volunteers throwing buckets from the local stream was the enhanced fire safety of the day! :LOL:

2. I do not (currently) have any circuits that are not at least on a 100ma RCD!

I guess I can just selected battery backed units and problem is solved?
Why do they sell `mains only` non-backup alarms, I was told most fires in homes are electrical anyway so the alarms may not work ???
 
when they say electrical they probbablly include portable appliances. fixed wiring is actually pretty damn safe.

is the 100ma rcd there because this is a TT system if so then there is a specific exception in the fire alarm regs iirc.
 

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