Wiring Hive Dual Channel to Heatline s24 Combi

[Steve Matthews]

Hello,

I mistakenly purchased a dual channel Hive self install from Amazon - but didn't realise why it was so cheap.

Anyway I thought - this should work - I can just ignore the hot water functionality.

My boiler is a Heatline S24 Compact Combi, which did have an external controller fitted already ( I have removed the internal jumper of the boiler's thermostat to allow this to work ).

The Boiler has a mains voltage thermostat loop which you attach a mains thermostat to. It consists of 2 wires, one ( A ) at mains voltage and the other ( B ) no voltage. However if you cross the wires the heating comes on.

I thought ok, if I use the Hive output ( heating on ) wire 4 and connect this to B on the boiler this would cause B to become Live at mains voltage, and therefore the heating would turn on.

This does not happen, and in fact it blows the 2A fuse on the controller board in the boiler.

Apart from fitting a relay which closes the thermometer loop from the boiler, I am not sure what to do. I was certain that my approach would work.

I have tested the voltage of the boiler loop wires and the Hive to check they are outputting mains at the right time.

If you have any ideas - I would be very thankful, and I am sure this would help others as I have seen only 1 similar post about this.

Thanks

Steve

 

[Johnmdc]

It say quite clearly on page 18 of the boiler manual under no circumstances connect mains voltage to the thermostat connections.
https://www.freeboilermanuals.com/assets/pdf/heat_line/S24-S30.pdf
Here is a link to it if you don't have it.
I suspect you may have blown the PCB.
If you are lucky and the fuse has protected it, then yes you will need to use a relay switched by the Hive to control it, or change the receiver to a single channel one which provides volt free switching.

 

[Echo the husky]

The diagram does show a set of connections for a mains room stat. Though deliberately connecting the mains output of the hive to the extra low voltage thermostat connections instead of the mains thermostat connections was not a good idea!

If the PCB is blown you must get a registered gas installer to replace it.

 

[Steve Matthews]

Thanks for your replies

I think that the manual is misleading because there is a mains loop switch from the boiler, and I have tested it with a multimeter and one of the two contacts has 230v AC.

There is another low voltage loop which you remove the jumper from to enable the use of a mains loop thermostat ( which is elsewhere on the board ), or a low voltage thermostat switch on the low voltage loop.

The PCB is not blown - just the PCB fuse went. ( Luckily )

 

[jren]

Hi sorry I've hijacked this thread as I've got the same problem. I'm trying to wire a dual channel hive receiver (don't ask) to a heatline vizo 24 (clock has gone so can't program heating to come on and off).

I've tried wiring it as single between 1&2 (did something - don't know what) and 1&3 did nothing which it wouldn't having now looked at the different wiring positions (dum dum)

https://imgur.com/Ub7aV2t

So now looking at the heatline 24 or 24 plus manual(there is variance but the theory is the same ) I should be able to wire direct to the pcb
heatline 24

page 15 (9.5) states a mains thermo can be used and shows the connections on page 16 fig 9 http://www.heatline.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/Vizo-24-and-28-manual.pdf
heatline 24 plus

states the same except its pages 19 (9.5) & 20. (fig 8 http://www.heatline.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/Vizo-Plus-24-manual.pdf
So my first question is do I just link no4 on the receiver to the mains thermo connections (ie the side that has no voltage so that when activated it calls for heating and second do i need to bridge from the L in the receiver to no4 to provide the mains voltage? (thinking about it that seems obvious but would rather check as providing a live there surely would just mean the call is there all the time?) Confusing myself more now!


(or could i get away with the low v terminals using 2&4? and no 230v because it definitely triggered something between 1&2 hmm just thought of that - may try that but would like answers to first questions as a back up in case the last idea doesn't work....