Worcester 240 Combi Boiler - Diaphragm Replacement

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Hey Guys

I'm hoping someone can help me here !

I need to replace the diaphragm on my boiler (I know this is the problem as I have had it confirmed by a plumber).
Due to costs & the difficulty in finding a reliable plumber, I want to change this myself but I could do with someone giving me some advice. I've found loads of instructions on here about changing it over, but at the risk of sounding dumb they get too technical.

If someone could translate it into the basics for me, I'd really appreciate it

Thanks
 
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I know this is the problem as I have had it confirmed by a plumber.
Due to costs & the difficulty in finding a reliable plumber

I've found loads of instructions on here about changing it over, but they get too technical.

Could the plumber that diagnosed it not have done it? Or was he not 'reliable' enough? Plumbers cost because they (hopefully) have technical ability.
 
did you call him out knowing he will tell you what it was, then you would have a go at fixing it yourself? goodness me. that down right cheak!
 
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did you call him out knowing he will tell you what it was, then you would have a go at fixing it yourself? goodness me. that down right cheak!

Er no, I'm not that hard faced !!

There is a very long story that goes with it, so I should probably explain it all.

After saving for 2 1/2 years, I finally had enough to replace my kitchen (which I have almost finished). Getting a 'gas safe registered' plumber has been a horrendous.
The first lad (the same one that has quoted me for the boiler) that came out was a right jack the lad. Apart from constantly telling me I HAD to have new central heating throughout because he doesnt like Worcester boilers. At this point there had been no problems with my boiler at all, but he still insisted on messing with it. He gave me a quote for the work, and I agreed a date for him to do the work.
He then text me at 1.30am in the morning to see 'if I was still awake'.

As you can imagine (Im a female living on my own), I found this both wierd and scary and didnt want him doing the work.

I went through 3 more plumbers, who either didnt turn up for the quotes or to do the work - I had no kitchen or facilities at all as a result of preparing everything for the first guy.

Eventually, after 2 weeks with no joy, I realised I would have to use the first guy. I had my parents here while he was doing the work as I didnt want to be in the house with him.

I came home from work to find that half the work he had been paid to do was not done, and he had done work that he knew wasn't due to be done until the electrician and plasterer had been - so I wasnt really amused but my hands were tied.

When he had been out, he had once again tried to convince my parents that I needed new heating. Again, he was told I couldnt afford it, and again, he was messing with the boiler for ages (I dont know if he needed to access it at all as its not in the kitchen). To be honest, I'm convinced he's done something to it.

I called him to look at the boiler as it had broke the day after he had been messing with it. He knew what the problem was before he'd even looked at it - he told me what it was over the phone adding to my suspicion.

I genuinely couldn't afford to pay him to fix the problem, and I told him that. He told me how I could get hot water in the mean time so I left it at that.

I still cant afford to pay for the labour as the kitchen ran over budget. Someone told me about these forums, and that I would be able to get advice on how to fix it myself if need be.

I can get the part for £13, and the plumber wanted to charge me WAY WAY WAY more than that, so I thought what the hell, If I can get the instructions I'll give it a go.

Sorry for this going on for so long, I just wanted to explain the reasons for why I want to fix it myself and I hope I have


Gill
 
The diaphragm itself probably wouldn't even cost that much, but you'd probably be best with the whole diverter valve if you haven't done this before. Sorry, I can't help you with specific instructions for this boiler. I've heard it's quite a chore on this model.
 
its a chore on a 24cdi, if it is a 240 then its front facing and a 20 min job for someone competent.

unfortunately you are not, and as such shouldn't be touching the boiler, the reason you should be paying a gas safe engineer is that they should do it safe, their not going to accidentally turn a screw relating to a gas section, they should know what to do should something go wrong during the process. If your on here asking you shouldnt be touching it.

sorry i cant be more helpful but it would be irresponsible to advise you to start tinkering.

Diaghram should be no more than £15 roughly, and an hours labour if there are no complications.
 
I disagree. I'm happy to tell someone how to work on the water side of a boiler (now I know she didn't get someone in to diagnose the fault on the sly and instead had a weirdofreak!). Download the manual here...

http://www.worcester-bosch.co.uk/in...literature/discontinued-gas-boiler-literature

However, I will say that read through what you need to do and if you're still unsure, get someone in.

You want page 27 mostly, the diagram's on page 26 and the description refers you to other instructions for things you will need to do. The manual tells of how to change the whole valve which you don't want/probably need to do, so I think you only need to undo one nut (i haven't done one in a while) followed by the screws around the outside of the valve. Another thing to bear in mind is that the pipe that sends the water to the DHW heat exchanger is usually a 'slip over' type and they sure do like to leak once moved.
 
The Worcester 240 is probably the best boiler they ever made. If this trade weren't so inept and corrupt diyers wouldn't come onto the forum.

Get yourself...

87161408020 O ring on slip coupling

87161405530 Diaphragm

A 3/4 inch and a 1/2 inch fibre washer.

You can get cheaper diaphragms...search the net, the genuine Worcester part is a rip off price. This is a simple 10 min job normally. Just make sure the washer connections are completely clean before reassembly. The slip coupling piece will need cleaning up (use wire wool in the O ring groove) and you'll need silicon grease to reassemble (the genuine diaphragm kit contains a sachet).
 
Whilst I appreciate that she has apparently been seriously mucked about by a cowboy, she then failed to get any of four other plumbers to quote/do the job.

That seems to me to be an unusual situation as one would expect at least 80% of plumbers to be normal honest and reasonably priced.

I would charge £106 inclusive to do that job and if the slip could not easily be stopped from leaking then another £13.

Its my feeling from what she is saying about prices that she would view my charges as far too high.

Tony
 
Thanks for the advice guys, I shall look into the information you have kindly provided.

Just to clarify some further points in response to certain comments. I am not inept in the slightest. I do all my own work on my car, and my home. The kitchen that has just been assembled and fitted was done by me. Tradesmen were only used for the things that I know I am not capable of, which was rewiring, gas work and plastering. I also paid a joiner to cut out the hob and sink holes.

I am perfectly capable of reading an instruction manual, and if I feel that the job is something I really can't manage, then I know how to ask for help.

I live in a small town, where there is not an endless supply of Gas Fitters around, and as I've already stated the ones that are, are about as reliable as a chocolate fireguard as they know they have you over the barrel. The plumber in question, was actually quoting much more than the £110 someone quoted on here, and had to borrow my tools when he came to look as he was incapable of carrying his own.

As I have already said, thank you very much to those that have given me hints and advice, it's really appreciated. I thought that is what these forums were for, not for making judgemental decisions about peoples capabilities and questions.
 
Making free visits just to give a quote is very time wasting. Only one out of three or four will ever get the job so all the time wasted has to be costed into the price.

Instead I ask a lot of questions and then give a budgetary price based on what I have been told. Only if thats acceptable do I go to confirm the prices. That way I can quote the most competitive prices and do jobs more efficiently.

Cutting out a hole for a hob or sink is a one spanner job! ( AA DIY range of difficulty out of five spanners. ) But you do need a good jigsaw.

The 240 diverter diaphragm would be a two spanner but in view of the leaks from the sliding section above the electrical components then I would assess the whole job at three spanners!

Tony
 
As I said, I'll have a read through the information tonight. If I genuinely feel that it is beyond me, then I guess I'm sticking to cold water until I can actually find a reasonable/normal plumber.

I am still on the lookout anyways, as I plan to completely remodel my bathroom before Christmas !
 

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