Worcester Danesmoor 12/14 - Lockout

[FiveKnuckleShuffle]

I know there has been previous posts regarding this but I have changed to a new solenoid and bled the valve.

This got the boiler running again for about a fortnight to a month and now back to lock out every five minutes.

I've took the filter out and noticed quite a bit debris in there but the oil that has drained out during bleeding seems clear bar the dust and stuff that was already in the container so don't think this is the issue.

Any pointers please guys and dolls?

 

[Burnerman]

For sure, there is some grot in there but not really excessive.....
A few checks - have a look at the bowl filter at the oil tank, that should collect quite a bit of the crap before it hits the burner.
Unscrew the nozzle, check the sintered filter there and fit a new one.
Check the photocell for dirt.
When was the boiler last serviced and cleaned out, and were the oil pump pressure and CO2 levels checked?
John

 

[FiveKnuckleShuffle]

Thanks for your reply.

I can't see any bowl filter at the outside fuel tank but the photo cell plug is wet with fuel but that might just be off me running off a bit fuel to check there was no air in the system.

It's probably due a service and clean but wanted to get it working before he came as that is usually an excuse to bleed more money out of the customer I've found

 

[Burnerman]

For sure, there shouldn't (can't) be any oil there.....that's a motor plug I think, (can't really see, small screen!) rather than the photocell which plugs into the end of the burner, behind the blast tube where it can see the flame. You have removed the solenoid coil - known to fail when it gets hot.
Give us a pic of the burner complete if you can.
John

 

[FiveKnuckleShuffle]

Well I cleaned the photo cell which didn't look dirty anyway really.

Ran the boiler which ran for a longer twenty odd minutes but didn't sound as smooth at the main extractor outside and it emitted small amounts of smoke.
It locked out again around the twenty min mark.

 

[Burnerman]

Smoke is a definite no-no and tells us that the combustion process is incorrect, probably due to low oil pressure or a badly adjusted air intake.
You could try a new nozzle (guess - Danfoss .60 / 80 deg) and an oil pressure gauge (screwed into the 'P' port on the pump) again guessed at 100 psi.
The CO2 level has to be set by a flue gas analyser though which ups the stakes a bit.
Smoke means that carbon is building up on the internal boiler baffles too.
Service time! You can clean the internals yourself without any issues though.
John

I'll just add to that - the service settings and nozzle size is on a sticker underneath the top boiler lid.
J.

 

[FiveKnuckleShuffle]

Which bit is the nozzle? I'll give that a try unless there is something specific that could be causing the smoke out the extractor. Cheers

 

[FiveKnuckleShuffle]

Pics

 

[Burnerman]

Looking at your picture there.....it's an Inter B9 burner - a good bit of kit.
Sitting on top of the BFP41L3 pump is the notorious solenoid coil. Above that is the photocell, the mounting flange of which is held on with 2 screws. Leave the screws alone, the photocell just unplugs but it has a notch to give correct orientation in the flange.
Bottom right white screw is the one that's turned to open or close the air door - leave that alone as it will upset the CO2 ratio if you turn it.
The control box (Satronic 832 I think) controls the timing of the purge and the spark production time.
An electric motor directly couples to the oil pump and has a draught fan on its other end.
The igniter is below the control box.
To access the nozzle the burner has to be removed, but first close off the oil supply, disconnect the braided flexible pipe and disconnect the blue sheathed wire. That only goes one way too.
The burner is held into the firebox by two screws at the top.
If you venture that far, the burner comes away leaving a blast tube visible and the nozzle within that.....the nozzle sprays the kero, and its ignited by two electrodes that spark. The electrodes are behind the nozzle but air blows the spark into the kero spray. The nozzle unscrews (17mm spanner) but its holder needs to be supported with another spanner as you do so.
Its good to know how oil burners actually work.....with this one, as soon as you switch it on:
Motor starts, ignition starts and runs for a few seconds but no oil is introduced (the purge of fresh air into the system)
After a few secs the oil is turned on by the solenoid coil, the spray is ignited by the ignition electrodes
The photocell sees the burning flame and turns the ignition off - the burning continues. If the photocell is faulty the burner shuts down after a few more seconds.
I hope this gives you a few clues about how the thing works, but an oil pressure gauge and FGA is needed to set the thing up.....settings can't be guessed!
John

 

[FiveKnuckleShuffle]

Thanks for all your advice.

I've got it out but can't see how I get to the nozzle with a spanner? Thoughts?

 

[FiveKnuckleShuffle]

Well to answer my own previous question I now have access to the nozzle but my god will it not come loose. Its that tight I'm afraid of snapping something! Won't budge in the slightest.

 

[Burnerman]

You are on the right track by supporting the nozzle holder......it will shift and its unusual for it to be really tight.
It may be necessary for further dismantling and securing the holder in a vice but I've never had to do that.
Mark that plate behind the nozzle as it does float.
John

 

[FiveKnuckleShuffle]

Finally got it off with a giant spanner haha.

How do you tell if it needs replacing or not? It's cleaned up OK.

 

[Burnerman]

Nozzles are machined to microns in size - they can be taken to bits but they are a precision item. If you want to have a look, unscrew the copper sintered filter from the rear of the nozzle. That will reveal a screw or allen screw that holds the swirler in place. The swirler has a couple of grooves machined in it which are critical for fuel delivery and spray....as a nozzle is around £6 get a new one, every time.
You'll never know how the nozzle is performing!
Replace like for like......a typical nozzle will be marked .60 / 80 EH which means:
It will deliver .60 US gallons per hour at the recommended pressure;
80 is the degree of the oil spray which is also critical;
EH is a typical nozzle spray profile, in this case Extra Hollow.
John

 

[Hairymelon]

Could the oil pump be failing? The earlier picture of the oily motor plug suggest the drive stem is weeping.