Am i being fussy bstard?

There is little risk if softened water is used to top up as long as inhibitor is added.

There are only two real faults!

The pressure relief valve should be taken downwards to within 150 mm of the ground.

The regeneration discharge should NOT be in copper as it contains brine which will corrode the copper quite quickly! ( Surprised DIA did not note that! )

As far as the plants are concerned, soft water is fine, thats what the natural rain is !!! Obviously if the regeneration is not very precise there may be a problem but most plants can tolerate considerable salt otherwise costal areas would be bare.

Tony
 
Sponsored Links
doitall said:
corgiman said:
just asking why not steel rads but yes to steel heat exchangers??

Salt and steel is very corrosive, stainless steel is ok.

As we're pulling it to bits, what size and how long is the gas pipe :LOL:

cheers doitall

good to know

gas pipe looks good to me, like the additional dead leg with a gas tap and stop end

how the heck is that speed fit connected to the copper on the rad leg?????
 
Agile said:
The pressure relief valve should be taken downwards to within 150 mm of the ground.

I have to disagree with you there tony, as G3 states that a pressure releif ONLY valve discharge can be turned to the wall as it is highly unlikely to open fully.

Temperature and expansion relief valves are a different kettle of fish

and when was it ever 150mm, i thought it was 100mm, or it has been for the last ten years

:)
 
now i am going to be fussy

I see verdigris on all the pipes tut tut

get a wet rag on that

:):):):):)
 
Sponsored Links
OK any more points

1. The bottom pipe is the raw water and should be connected to the inlet of the water softener.

2. the boiler is connected to the top, softened water, ok for the DHW but not the filler loop which fills the radiators. (there is no filler loop so we assume the internal filler loop is used in boiler?)

3. the green waste pipe has to have an air gap the same as a washing machine.

4. check valve, a drain cock and a stopcock on the outside tap.

5. Condensate drain should be in 32mm (externally only?)

6. Pipes feeding to rad upstairs should be joined to speedfit pipe correctly (but in what way?)

7. Any more?
 
Agile said:
There is little risk if softened water is used to top up as long as inhibitor is added.

There are only two real faults!

The pressure relief valve should be taken downwards to within 150 mm of the ground.

That valve is for GAS, i asked for a GAS feed for kitchen hob.
 
Agile said:
There is little risk if softened water is used to top up as long as inhibitor is added.

There are only two real faults!

The pressure relief valve should be taken downwards to within 150 mm of the ground.

The regeneration discharge should NOT be in copper as it contains brine which will corrode the copper quite quickly! ( Surprised DIA did not note that! )

As far as the plants are concerned, soft water is fine, thats what the natural rain is !!! Obviously if the regeneration is not very precise there may be a problem but most plants can tolerate considerable salt otherwise costal areas would be bare.

Tony

Your talking complete crap Tony :eek: :eek: :eek:

Softened water should never be used to fill a heating system Most manufacturers state this in the installation instructions.

I said the regeneration should have a washing machine type trap etc, which would have been plastic. but point taken.

Pressure relief pipe is fine as is.

And salt will kill any plant, sprinkle some on your lawn if you like a brown patch.
 
All Ok, but -

6. The copper reduces down to 10mm and then connects to the plastic with 10mm pushfit connectors that you can barely make out because of poor focus at that distance (festive!), so I think that's OK, except that the plastic might be within a metre of the boiler low connection (minor point).

7. As Agile pointed out, the softener discharge should not be in copper.

8. Corgi registration of installer? Benchmark Certificate? Corgi notification of installation? ....there must be more....
 
fitz1 said:
bonding(earth)[/quote
Supplementary bonding isnt needed at the boiler as its not located in a special location or kitchen (]kitchens fall under part p but have been removed from 16th edition but will be reinstated in the 17th edition)
 
lcgs said:
fitz1 said:
bonding(earth)[/quote
Supplementary bonding isnt needed at the boiler as its not located in a special location or kitchen (]kitchens fall under part p but have been removed from 16th edition but will be reinstated in the 17th edition)

Thought the new regs say you have to cross bond the pipes at the boiler ???

Still need to id that soil pipe outside.
 
No Corgi would like that but the wiring regs dont state the that it should be done under the boiler only that cross bonding should have be carried out in the bathroom or rooms with showers.Should the heating become live they'll be bonded to the hot and cold in the bathroom and to the gas via the MET. therefore all pipes are the same potential without the need at the boiler.
 
lcgs said:
No Corgi would like that but the wiring regs dont state the that it should be done under the boiler only that cross bonding should have be carried out in the bathroom or rooms with showers.

when i did my part P the stressed the need for every conductable surface, no matter where located, MUST be bonded

has that changed now?, too fat and lazy to check me book :)
 
doitall said:
2. the boiler is connected to the top, softened water, ok for the DHW but not the filler loop which fills the radiators.

The top pipe is connected to the IN pipe on WS so that's unsoftened? Or is the WS itself connected wrong ?!?
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top