Cutting down flat head screws ie those on sockets

[mikhailfaradayski]

how to cut a M3.5 brass screw so it fixes a bleedin socket to a wall?

here's how:-

Have a few consultant engineers decide on the required length and permissable tolerances.

Employ the services of a precision engineering shop to make a mandrel to hold the sodding screw into a lathe with 3 jaw chuck.

Using a parting tool, part off the screw at size plus machining allowance.

Remove cut screw from lathe, send to a cylindrical grinding cell.

Have the cut screw end shoulder ground to size.

get vernier calipers, slip gauges, granite inspection bench in a controlled environment.

Put screw into inspection/standards room.

Allow screw to saturate to local temperature (normally 20 degrees celsius, minimum 12 hours)

Using a Zeiss CMM machine, run a 500 point SPC data gathering programme.

Gauge the surface texture of cut end, 0.6Ra should be appropriate (as a guide)

If no faults found, fill out a certificate of conformity, package screw in bubble wrap. Return to sparky.

Easy !!!

 

[mikhailfaradayski]

yeh! four pages now baby

 

[GaryMo]

BAS, I have to side with Gary on this one..
your posts read to me ( and aparently to gary ) that you were trying to influence his way of doing things..

I presented it as an alternative.

you repeatedly told him that if he put nuts on that he didn't need to dress the screw..

I repeatedly told him that using a nut was an alternative way to clean up the end of the screw.

you then shouted at him in big red letters... which he took as an angry gesture..

I tried to make what I wrote as easy to spot as possible, because he kept on acting as if I was saying that you should use a nut as well as a file.

I see ColJack understood where I was coming from which leaves the problem at your door, yet again.

Also, please don't feel the need to use large coloured letters to try and get a point across when it's incorrect. I never once stated that you said a file was required as well as a nut.

Troll.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I see ColJack understood where I was coming from which leaves the problem at your door, yet again.

Oh I understand where you're coming from - it's a position of failing to read properly, and the problem left at my door is trying to deal with what is either deliberate obtuseness or incompetence on your part.

I never once stated that you said a file was required as well as a nut.

Oh really?

The threads are clean when dressed up, no need for nuts.

Your reason for saying that they are clean when dressed was that you dress them with a file.

So your meaning was "I've dressed them with a file so no need for nuts", which can only mean that you thought I was suggesting the use of nuts as well as filing.

So I clarified, in normal size and colour text:

What I'm saying is stick a nut on before you cut and there's no need to bother with a file - just work the nut back and forth a few times.

And you came back with:

I know the threads are clean because I dress them - why would I bother dressing them if there wasn't a reason for it?

i.e. still persisting with replies as if you thought I was saying that working a nut on the thread would be useful after you had dressed the end.

Which is why I tried making my text as easy to spot as possible, as you just weren't reading what I was writing - you were "reading" what you thought I was writing, and you were wrong in what you thought.

Troll.

I'm not the one failing to read, and then repeatedly telling someone that they are wrong to say something which they haven't said.

So are you a troll, or just hard of thinking?

 

[holmslaw]

What a load of old bollerx

 

[johnnykc]

5 pages...5 pages.....c'mon..we can do it

 

[mikhailfaradayski]

what we need is someone who can interject with an even more pedantic view point to really drag this out. Preferably, someone who doesn't reed two good.

 

[333rocky333]

Mk and decent screws, etc are chamfered at the ends I thought , so they dont damage the wires if they accidently hit them,
Bans way is good for the thread but dont chamfer the edge.
I use Bans way to cut studding but usually still also file a chamfer.
I thought it was normal for any Metal worker not to leave a sharp end of thread.,

 

[GaryMo]

Rocky - he (or she, I really have no idea) missed that bit:

Oh well - maybe it's me - I'd never dream of cutting a screw without having something on there first which I knew would clean up the end.

Contemplate this - You use a junior hacksaw to cut the socket screw (I assume this would be the case?) then run the nuts over the thread. The thread is now clean in that it will enter it's socket without difficulty but what if a sharp end had been left on the screw? Where you cut through 90% then the last 10% snaps off?

I've got a great idea - use a file to dress it.

As for anything BAS or BAS related - I'll no longer reply over a keyboard. It's pointless. Face to face would be more interesting

 

[LiamPope]

what we need is someone who can interject with an even more pedantic view point to really drag this out. Preferably, someone who doesn't reed two good.

Since when has a nut (or heaven forbid a file ) been the correct way to repair a damaged thread!? Get off your horses, get a proper lathe to machine the screws shorter with a square face, then run a die up the damn thread.

134.1.1, anybody?

 

[RF Lighting]

I just cut the screw twice with my normal side cutters.

First cut actually cuts the screw, second cut nips a bit of thread off to leave a good bit of thread. Takes about 0.4 seconds.

 

[GaryMo]

I just cut the screw twice with my normal side cutters.

First cut actually cuts the screw, second cut nips a bit of thread off to leave a good bit of thread. Takes about 0.4 seconds.

You'll have to work a little faster if it's a TT system then

 

[holmslaw]

..

 

[RF Lighting]

Why not just stay in russia?

 

[holmslaw]

..