Hi, I hope there is someone out there who can advise me on this.
I wanted to flush out the heater matrix on my car. The rubber water pipes in the engine bay were jammed on solid to the "brass/copper" (?) pipes that go into the heater matrix. There is very little room for hands or tools in the space where they connect. In the end I foolishly resorted to mole grips to give a little twist to break the seal. The good news is that I did eventually get the b*gg*rs off. The bad news is that I crimped and bent the metal pipes. These pipes pass through a hole in the bulkhead from the matrix which is situated behind the dash. It would be a nightmare to get the matrix out.
I have managed to open the pipes up enough for a good flow of water and I have flushed out the matrix. The photo shows the pipe before I prized it open a bit, so it is not quite as bad now. I used an expanding rawl bolt and a right angled rod to get some of the dent out. Still pretty bad though.
//media.diynot.com/160000_159042_30599_83071464_thumb.jpg
//media.diynot.com/160000_159042_30598_93895422_thumb.jpg
My Problem is that the pipes are still too crimped to get the rubber pipes back on and make a water tight joint. So I wonder if there are any bright ideas on un-crimping the pipes. Or.....?
An idea I have is to get some kind of waterproof/ heat proof/ pressure proof compound or paste and cover the outside of the buckled pipes then put an over sized rubber pipe over the crimped pipes and use a jubilee/ worm clip to hold it in place. The paste would have to handle boiling water and antifreeze, the pressure of the system and the vibration of the car. It has to make contact with the rubber pipe and the metal pipe and set firmly but allow for future removal.
I have no idea what compound would be best suited for this plan and welcome any advice or brand names or possible snags.
I had been thinking on the lines of a compound that sets to a firm rubbery setting. It would take the vibration and compress slightly under the pressure of the jubilee clip. I hadn't thought of making a hard round shape again as I don't think I will be able to get it round enough, given its awkward location.( I can get my finger tips to it but not really work on it). Also I suspect the seal between say, araldite and the metal, would not handle the constant temperature changes, sub zero to boiling, and subsequent expanding and contracting plus the engine vibration. I might be wrong on that.
I was searching websites and wonder if any one has an opinion of these products or any other suggestions. PLUMBERS MATE, FERNOX LS-X, ROCOL OILSEAL, ROCOL PIPE SEAL, JET BLUE, JB WELD.
I am sure that most of the people who visit this forum would have more knowledge and opinions than me on this kind of stuff. Please keep the suggestions flowing.
Thanks Jez
I wanted to flush out the heater matrix on my car. The rubber water pipes in the engine bay were jammed on solid to the "brass/copper" (?) pipes that go into the heater matrix. There is very little room for hands or tools in the space where they connect. In the end I foolishly resorted to mole grips to give a little twist to break the seal. The good news is that I did eventually get the b*gg*rs off. The bad news is that I crimped and bent the metal pipes. These pipes pass through a hole in the bulkhead from the matrix which is situated behind the dash. It would be a nightmare to get the matrix out.
I have managed to open the pipes up enough for a good flow of water and I have flushed out the matrix. The photo shows the pipe before I prized it open a bit, so it is not quite as bad now. I used an expanding rawl bolt and a right angled rod to get some of the dent out. Still pretty bad though.
//media.diynot.com/160000_159042_30599_83071464_thumb.jpg
//media.diynot.com/160000_159042_30598_93895422_thumb.jpg
My Problem is that the pipes are still too crimped to get the rubber pipes back on and make a water tight joint. So I wonder if there are any bright ideas on un-crimping the pipes. Or.....?
An idea I have is to get some kind of waterproof/ heat proof/ pressure proof compound or paste and cover the outside of the buckled pipes then put an over sized rubber pipe over the crimped pipes and use a jubilee/ worm clip to hold it in place. The paste would have to handle boiling water and antifreeze, the pressure of the system and the vibration of the car. It has to make contact with the rubber pipe and the metal pipe and set firmly but allow for future removal.
I have no idea what compound would be best suited for this plan and welcome any advice or brand names or possible snags.
I had been thinking on the lines of a compound that sets to a firm rubbery setting. It would take the vibration and compress slightly under the pressure of the jubilee clip. I hadn't thought of making a hard round shape again as I don't think I will be able to get it round enough, given its awkward location.( I can get my finger tips to it but not really work on it). Also I suspect the seal between say, araldite and the metal, would not handle the constant temperature changes, sub zero to boiling, and subsequent expanding and contracting plus the engine vibration. I might be wrong on that.
I was searching websites and wonder if any one has an opinion of these products or any other suggestions. PLUMBERS MATE, FERNOX LS-X, ROCOL OILSEAL, ROCOL PIPE SEAL, JET BLUE, JB WELD.
I am sure that most of the people who visit this forum would have more knowledge and opinions than me on this kind of stuff. Please keep the suggestions flowing.
Thanks Jez
Matrix pipes 1
- alansdad
- 1
Tucked in behind the engine, buried under the pipes and looms, two pipes from the heater matrix...