Strange Request.... car plumbing

[alansdad]

Even if you had easy access to it or could remove the matrix to work on it, I doubt that you'd ever get it good enough and would quite probably tear the annealed copper that it is.

So,it's out with the Haynes manual and find a replacement from a scrapyard, main dealer or online.

The car is a Mitsubishi Pajero (Shogun). The matrix is hidden behind 10 hours of dismantling all of the dash, the instruments and all the controls from gear stick to compass, levers, wires and spring loaded booby traps. Then there is the repair/re-new work and then the fun of putting the jigsaw back together.

When they build these cars they put the matrix in first then......

I have joined the two rubber pipes together for now, bypassing the matrix. I get to use the car but freeze my n*ts off.
Still, summer is just around the corner. Isn't it?

 

[alansdad]

A rothenburger pipe expander may salvage the pipes.

Wow, that's a nice tool. I had never heard of it before. It might work but the price is a bit of a blow. I might be able to hire one and try it out.
Thanks

 

[ChrisR]

WIth some removing, appropriate wet rags etc, you could heat the pipes to soften them. Then make a slightly tapered wooden finger (or three) to go in. Lubricate (one plastic bag inside another) and tap in gently. Keep removing to check for any sign of splitting.

I'm not sure what diameter you have there, but copper pipes come in small increments from 4mm up (!) so I'd get the stubs to a reasonable size, then solder a pipe INSIDE what you have.
(There's 4,6,8,10, 15,22mm easily available)
Use plumber's type D solder. That's the thick stick stuff used for lead, etc ( and similar to what they used to use for top quality car body filling, ). It's sort of mushy, and will fill a gap.

You'd need to get everything spotless first - something like a scraper, wire brush them Bakers Fluid would do it. Pre-tin the pipe, and the spigots, with ordinary plumbers , or even electronic solder. That'll keep the need for heat down. You can "wipe" the solder with some damp kitchen roll ( or buy a proper "moleskin").

I would strongy advise you practise a bit with a few bits of plumbing fittings/pipe.

 

[Axel]

Such a vehicle has a powerful electrical system. You could fit a 12V electrical heater / fan inside the passenger compartment. Until you need to sell the vehicle (which you would do during the summer months...!!)

 

[transam]

As previous poster said get an electric heater , car builder solutions supply such a 12 v unit , for under dash fitment ect , generally aimed at the kit car builder !!

 

[Axel]

I've seen a retro-fit air conditioning unit affixed to the dashboard in an Egyptian Taxi!

 

[Nige F]

. 2 halves (cut lengthways) of a piece of hose, Do let us know if you adopt the above method and if it actually works!!

would that be with a stanley knife

 

[Nige F]

WIth some removing, appropriate wet rags etc, ( or buy a proper "moleskin").

I would strongy advise you practise a bit with a few bits of plumbing fittings/pipe.

You`re having a giraffe the OP needs to practice with a stanley knife - he`s already been @ the water pump pliers

 

[Nige F]

I've seen a retro-fit air conditioning unit affixed to the dashboard in an Egyptian Taxi!

Are you a bit of a car buff, Axle

 

[Nige F]

Even if you had easy access to it or could remove the matrix to work on it, I doubt that you'd ever get it good enough and would quite probably tear the annealed copper that it is.

So,it's out with the Haynes manual and find a replacement from a scrapyard, main dealer or online.

The car is a Mitsubishi Pajero (Shogun). The matrix is hidden behind 10 hours of dismantling all of the dash, the instruments and all the controls from gear stick to compass, levers, wires and spring loaded booby traps. Then there is the repair/re-new work and then the fun of putting the jigsaw back together.

Tojo`s revenge

 

[Nige F]

FFS Use Fernox LS-X and an oversized heater hose - 5/8" instead of 1/2" glue it on and leave for a week - then put the jubilee clip over it and nip it up ( Nip , geddit ) then use a bit of copper tube and some LS-X to adapt to the existing heater pipes - leaves these for 24 hours with the gas guzzling Show Gun off the road . jubilee clips again and it`s done - not rocket science

 

[alansdad]

I'm surprised that no one has mentioned yet that I should have used a Stanley Knife in the first place.

I don't trust my soldering skills at the best of times and although it is hard to see in the photos, these pipes are tucked down a crevice between the engine and bulkhead making it very hard to do any work on them.

I have already bought a 12v 150w heater from fleabay. Mostly as a screen demister. Waiting for delivery.

Nigel, Any idea how I should have got the pipes off in the first place? I was thinking angle grinder or Kanga drill or maybe a little Semtex.
Hang on ....what about a Stanley knife? Nah, that would just make a mess of things. Chain saw? Yup, that's what I needed. Wish I had thought of it before.

Gas guzzling is right. LPG gas to be precise. Half the price (almost) of petrol and lower carbon output than many smaller cars and vans but with the power to pull the trailers and boats that I need to move. Also very handy when it 's icy (apart from the heater aspect).

 

[Agile]

John ( Scruff ) who posts on here has one of those cars!

I am sure that he would have advised you to have used a Stanley Knife to cut the hoses.

So much has been said that I have forgotten why you wanted to remove them in the beginning. Was it so that you could fit a new matrix?

Tony

 

[Deleted member 105431]

A rothenburger pipe expander may salvage the pipes.

Wow, that's a nice tool. I had never heard of it before. It might work but the price is a bit of a blow. I might be able to hire one and try it out.
Thanks

Toolstation do a cheaper version with 15mm and 22mm heads for £90

 

[heatingman]

try a selection of expanding rawl bolts, might be able to pull/form the ends into a useable shape.