TANKING OR DPC

[peaps2]

The answer is no..

You are not qualified and don't even understand the basics of breathable houses. Dry houses are unhealthy and breathable houses balance the humidity at a healthy level...

You are unable to provide ANYTHING to support your insane rants on breathable homes and are giving very bad advice out that will cost a fortune later on down the line...

"Breathability should be central to the design and renovation processes. It affects the health of the building and the occupants, especially as we try to improve the thermal performance of our homes. It also effects the environment, as the materials that provide the best breathability are often the natural, more traditional ones, although only recently have we begun to understand why.
An estimated 75% of building failures are due to water - either rainwater penetration, interstitial condensation or inner surface condensation. This starts with the outside of the building where vapour closed finishes (such as hard cement renders or high resin paints) can cause considerable damage by trapping moisture. It's possible, often desirable, to have a capillary closed external finish but it should usually be vapour open. Research into modern timber frame constructions shows that drying is more effective through vapour open materials than through “vented” cavities, which often have no air movement."

http://www.natural-building.co.uk/art_how_to_prevent_water_damaging _buildings_and _health.htm

 

[joe-90]

Now stop telling fibs Peaps. You invite the damp into the house. If you do not - then tell us how you prevent it from entering.

 

[joe-90]

Considering that the OPs house will have all its walls painted in non-breathable vinyl - what are you going to do about that then - to make it 'breathable'.

Did I hear you say you need a de-humidifier or was i dreaming?

 

[peaps2]

You was dreaming. The who point is that even the paint should be breathable

And if you would care to read you would have understood this long ago.

Plaster needs hacking off as advised.

So waiting for you to support your insane advice.

 

[peaps2]

Now stop telling fibs Peaps. You invite the damp into the house. If you do not - then tell us how you prevent it from entering.

Breathable............

Prove it, it's as simple as that.

He won't
He can't

 

[surreygirl]

Well I can see the sense in what both of you are saying. I do and would agree that if the damp cannot get out in one place it has to go out somewhere else on the other hand I dont want it coming in my place either so I have to stop it coming in - some how but HELP! I dont know how. I am going to go for ventilation though as that makes sense and sounds like a good lot of "common".

However is it DPC or Tank I am banging my head against the wall and quite honestly there will nothing left to tank if I dont get it sorted out soon.

If you can get on your bike please and come and HELP me I would be extremely grateful

 

[peaps2]

Well I can see the sense in what both of you are saying. I do and would agree that if the damp cannot get out in one place it has to go out somewhere else on the other hand I dont want it coming in my place either so I have to stop it coming in - some how but HELP! I dont know how. I am going to go for ventilation though as that makes sense and sounds like a good lot of "common".

However is it DPC or Tank I am banging my head against the wall and quite honestly there will nothing left to tank if I dont get it sorted out soon.

If you can get on your bike please and come and HELP me I would be extremely grateful

The reason you have damp now is because it had damp proof work done on it.....

I would not do either a DPC or tank it. I would remove all the old plaster and board it on to battens adding vent to vent the cavity. If you tak it with sika you will damage the brick by sealing in the moisture.

I have visited people from this site and done work for free but you are too far away.

 

[huddsspread]

dont worry about these two they argue all the time........

If it was me, personally i would tank it. If its damp now, tanking will get rid of the problem. But also there is the actual reason why it is damp in the first place. Is it water penetrating from the outside, leaking pipes, or in 99% of the time, condensation.

Have you got a de humidifier? if not get one, that will start getting rid of the dampness in the air, leave it on 24 hours a day.

As for the tanking, there are 100's of different ways of doing it. You can paint a few coats of slurry on it- which is easy - plenty of different makes around, someone will reccomend one, sbr is one.

Another way is to sand and cement render, with water proofer in.

If it was my house, I would slurry it and also render over the top.

Then you wont have any dampness in that room. If there is a problem with the room being to dry---go with me on this---then you can get a humidifier that puts moisture in the air--we had to get one in the winter for our youngest who had a dry cough, and because the heating is on all the time, the air is dry. Put that in her room at night and she never coughed again. Its the same size as a de humidifer, but work in opposite.

 

[huddsspread]

You say you have had the kitchen and bathroom tanked and its fine? then go ahead and repeat the process. But first hack out off all the plaster and let the walls dry if you can, with your de humidifier, so they are dry before you do anything.

 

[peaps2]

Hudds, can you explain how you are going to protect the brick from crumbling when you tank it?

Didn't think so

Why don't you do some research...?

I have nearly 29 years experience in this field and you?

 

[peaps2]

If the house is built using lime mortar, it is most likely that the walls are solid – they won’t have a cavity. These walls need to be treated very differently to ones with a cavity. These walls need to breathe – the stone and brick from which they are built is harder, and less absorbent than the lime mortar, and any moisture in the wall escapes through the mortar joints. This can be moisture from condensation on the inside of the walls, or water which falls on the outside of the wall from rainfall. If the mortar joints are left to breathe, your walls will stay dry. The lime mortar gradually ‘self sacrifices’ over many years, and recedes into the joint, so that eventually, there is a slot between the bricks or stone.

The comonest problem with old houses is flaking brick and spalling stone, which can almost always be traced back to when the joints were raked out, and cement mortar used to re-point them. If cement mortar is used, water will not escape the walls, and you will have damp problems inside the house as well. This is one of the common causes of so-called rising damp – it is nothing to do with rising damp, and the solution is NEVER an injection damp proof course!


http://www.heritage-house.org/pointing.html

 

[huddsspread]

Why is it going to crumble?

Is it crumbleing now?

She says that her kitchen and bathroom have been tanked and they are fine?

 

[peaps2]

Why is it going to crumble?

Is it crumbleing now?

She says that her kitchen and bathroom have been tanked and they are fine?

How would you know until you hack it off or leave it to fall off..? The tanking has stopped the damp from coming through but it's now coming out above the damp proof..

Cover up soft brick with cement based render sealing it is bad practise.

You should keep up with the trade you are making a living out of..

Plastering is more than knowing how to skim and float you need to know what materials to use.

 

[huddsspread]

your words


It was originally lime and damp because it was designed to be since it was a basement.


Now i have RENDERED ( not tanked ) loads of cellars/basements with damp problems, as you said it was designed as a basement, so it wasnt going to be lived in, and have never had any problems.

As ive said in earlier posts, i still work around a few of the houses where i have rendered the cellar/basement and they are 1000000% dry, no damp, no problems, no mould, no crumbling, nothing. Some are bedrooms, one is a kitchen. Im not saying your way is wrong at all but every situation on this forum you say, no dont do that use lime. In certain situation i would agree, but its every single time.

Im not arguing with you, thats for you and joe to do, but i dont thin there has been a post on here you haven't said, no you must use lime.

 

[JohnD]

it would be really nice to see photos of the outside of the wall and to know if, for example, there are leaking gutters or downpipes, or gappy joinery in the wall.

We heard there were plumbing leaks inside the home so I would like to see those dried out by ventilation before deciding what sort of damp problem exists.