TANKING OR DPC
- Thread starter surreygirl
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peaps2
Your advice is well out of order mate. You don't have a clue what you are talking about you are happier following me around the forum posting after I do.
Breathable houses are not damp houses and that's why building methods are turning toward breathable houses. Sealed houses don't work because you can't seal them
You are an idiot.
Breathable houses are not damp houses and that's why building methods are turning toward breathable houses. Sealed houses don't work because you can't seal them
You are an idiot.
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peaps2
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peaps2
The house in question was done that way
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peaps2
....and it got all damp - hence the damp course.
It's a basement that was converted wrong, hence the damp problem idiot.
Gentleman you are helping and I appreciate all your comments. I do agree that sealing up the walls would cause the damp to go somewhere else. I am not sure if that would happen with a DPC however I am still unsure as to what is the best method DPC or damp proof render (or tanking - is that the same!)
As was mentioned I do have to do something and I have to keep out the damp it does get very damp with condensation so I will certainly get in air vents etc or dehumidifiers as well as either tanking or DPC etc.
Thank you for all your comments
As was mentioned I do have to do something and I have to keep out the damp it does get very damp with condensation so I will certainly get in air vents etc or dehumidifiers as well as either tanking or DPC etc.
Thank you for all your comments
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peaps2
Gentleman you are helping and I appreciate all your comments. I do agree that sealing up the walls would cause the damp to go somewhere else. I am not sure if that would happen with a DPC however I am still unsure as to what is the best method DPC or damp proof render (or tanking - is that the same!)
As was mentioned I do have to do something and I have to keep out the damp it does get very damp with condensation so I will certainly get in air vents etc or dehumidifiers as well as either tanking or DPC etc.
Thank you for all your comments
You can stop the damp by tanking but if you go for the wet sika system you will cause problem with the brick. These bricks are not like modern brick, they are much softer due to how they were fired. They have a thin hard outer layer and the middle is softer. When you seal the walls the damp attacks the brick and it can degrade quickly causing much more damage.
If the walls are just damp and not wet you could remove all the plaster and batten the wall and use plasterboard making sure you add vents to vent the walls allowing them the breath again.
You can then remove cement pointing (if it has it) from the outside walls and re-point with lime.
It will also be an advantage to vent the whole place but without a plan of the place it's hard to advise were.
You can get electric vents that turn on when when humidity is high ect
I use Stadium free air vents and we have electric vent in the kitchen and bathroom areas, we use Manrose. You have the option to turn them on permanent or off allowing them to turn on when it becomes humid.
Try to lower the humidity, don't dry cloths in the house. Shorter showers ect
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peaps2
Problem with joe90 is that he isn't qualified and many modern plasterers only work with modern plasterers that are bad news for old houses.
Something for you to read
"Managing Damp in old buildings
It's almost inevitable that you will find damp in an old house. Nothing lasts forever, but despite the English weather, our old buildings can, and will stand the test of time. The worst enemy of old houses is we humans - it's generally what we do to them, or fail to understand about them, that causes most of the problems and make you think you have to Damp Proof it.
In recent years, so called 'Rising Damp specialists', and building surveyors recommending damp treatment have caused massive, and in many cases, irreparable damage to old buildings through their incompetence. Don't use them. Many of these idiot surveyors are churning out 'Homebuyer Survey' reports with a standard clause in them that recommends 'Specialist Timber and Damp Survey'. You just paid the surveyor for that - so dont pay the bill - he doesnt know what he is talking about.
Did you know that in Holland, they don't even have damp courses? True... Even in new houses, damp proof courses are not required. They build their houses with their feet in the water, and they dont get wet walls. I teach Dutch architectural students at college, and they fall about laughing when we talk about what they call our 'Quaint English Custom' of damp courses and injection damp proofing. Sounds funny, but this is serious stuff - we are being defrauded to the tune of hundreds of millions a year, by chemical companies selling useless, fraudulent treatment.
Don't stop walls breathing!
When a wall warms up after a cool night, the air contained within its pores expands as it warms and a small proportion moves out of the wall via the connected pores. As the wall cools down again the air within contracts and air moves back into the wall from the atmosphere. And so masonry walls ‘breathe’ – out as they warm and in as they cool. Breathing occurs on a daily basis, or more frequently in periods of variable weather; breathing is shallow when there is little temperature variation and deepest when the daily range is greatest. Of course, walls don’t actually breathe in the human sense: they just sit there while changes in temperature (and air pressure) do the work, but the ‘breathing’ analogy is a convenient way of understanding frequent exchanges of air from masonry to atmosphere and back again. If the air drawn into a wall is humid and if the wall material cools below the dew point then some of the water vapour in the humid air will condense as water droplets within the pores of the masonry, though the wall will still be ‘dry’. During warmer and drier times some of this water will evaporate and leave the wall as it breathes out. Apparently dry walls commonly contain water, the amount varying with changes in the season and climate. If there are salts or other hygroscopic (moisture-attracting) materials in the masonry then the amount of water drawn into (and retained in) the wall can be sufficient to make the wall visibly damp, even in dry weather. This is just the same as what happens when you leave a pot of salt on the kitchen table - it gets wet..
Anything that prevents a masonry wall from breathing will reduce its life expectancy. Coatings that are designed to seal the surface of masonry walls (and so ‘protect’ them) will trap moisture behind the coating and cause a damp problem elsewhere, such as on the other side of the wall. If there are appreciable salts in the wall, the damage caused by the inappropriate use of coatings can be dramatic . The coatings themselves - cement renders, gypsum plasters, plastic emulsion paints - will eventually be forced off the wall.
Most problems of damp in pre-1920's buildings have been caused since the war, when cement and gypsum plaster became widely available - these two materials are responsible for over 90% of the damage that we see. They are impervious, they trap moisture and cause rot - they are death to an old house. Add silicone sealants to a timber frame, and you have instant rot of oak which is probably 400 years old. I have seen new timber frames start to rot in 2 or 3 years when incompetent framers seal the panels using mastic instead of oakum, which can breathe. "
http://www.heritage-house.org/damp.html
Something for you to read
"Managing Damp in old buildings
It's almost inevitable that you will find damp in an old house. Nothing lasts forever, but despite the English weather, our old buildings can, and will stand the test of time. The worst enemy of old houses is we humans - it's generally what we do to them, or fail to understand about them, that causes most of the problems and make you think you have to Damp Proof it.
In recent years, so called 'Rising Damp specialists', and building surveyors recommending damp treatment have caused massive, and in many cases, irreparable damage to old buildings through their incompetence. Don't use them. Many of these idiot surveyors are churning out 'Homebuyer Survey' reports with a standard clause in them that recommends 'Specialist Timber and Damp Survey'. You just paid the surveyor for that - so dont pay the bill - he doesnt know what he is talking about.
Did you know that in Holland, they don't even have damp courses? True... Even in new houses, damp proof courses are not required. They build their houses with their feet in the water, and they dont get wet walls. I teach Dutch architectural students at college, and they fall about laughing when we talk about what they call our 'Quaint English Custom' of damp courses and injection damp proofing. Sounds funny, but this is serious stuff - we are being defrauded to the tune of hundreds of millions a year, by chemical companies selling useless, fraudulent treatment.
Don't stop walls breathing!
When a wall warms up after a cool night, the air contained within its pores expands as it warms and a small proportion moves out of the wall via the connected pores. As the wall cools down again the air within contracts and air moves back into the wall from the atmosphere. And so masonry walls ‘breathe’ – out as they warm and in as they cool. Breathing occurs on a daily basis, or more frequently in periods of variable weather; breathing is shallow when there is little temperature variation and deepest when the daily range is greatest. Of course, walls don’t actually breathe in the human sense: they just sit there while changes in temperature (and air pressure) do the work, but the ‘breathing’ analogy is a convenient way of understanding frequent exchanges of air from masonry to atmosphere and back again. If the air drawn into a wall is humid and if the wall material cools below the dew point then some of the water vapour in the humid air will condense as water droplets within the pores of the masonry, though the wall will still be ‘dry’. During warmer and drier times some of this water will evaporate and leave the wall as it breathes out. Apparently dry walls commonly contain water, the amount varying with changes in the season and climate. If there are salts or other hygroscopic (moisture-attracting) materials in the masonry then the amount of water drawn into (and retained in) the wall can be sufficient to make the wall visibly damp, even in dry weather. This is just the same as what happens when you leave a pot of salt on the kitchen table - it gets wet..
Anything that prevents a masonry wall from breathing will reduce its life expectancy. Coatings that are designed to seal the surface of masonry walls (and so ‘protect’ them) will trap moisture behind the coating and cause a damp problem elsewhere, such as on the other side of the wall. If there are appreciable salts in the wall, the damage caused by the inappropriate use of coatings can be dramatic . The coatings themselves - cement renders, gypsum plasters, plastic emulsion paints - will eventually be forced off the wall.
Most problems of damp in pre-1920's buildings have been caused since the war, when cement and gypsum plaster became widely available - these two materials are responsible for over 90% of the damage that we see. They are impervious, they trap moisture and cause rot - they are death to an old house. Add silicone sealants to a timber frame, and you have instant rot of oak which is probably 400 years old. I have seen new timber frames start to rot in 2 or 3 years when incompetent framers seal the panels using mastic instead of oakum, which can breathe. "
http://www.heritage-house.org/damp.html
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Yes. Peaps - the rest of the world is wrong and you are right.
You'll be offering her a quote next.
It's a long way by bicycle though.
Peaps is a 'new age' plasterer that doesn't realise that we are not in the year 1554 anymore.
If you want a house free from damp - then keep the damp out. Tank it.
You'll be offering her a quote next.
It's a long way by bicycle though.
Peaps is a 'new age' plasterer that doesn't realise that we are not in the year 1554 anymore.
If you want a house free from damp - then keep the damp out. Tank it.
P
peaps2
Care to provide some professional technical to support your rant?
He won't
He can't.
Diyer with no clue at all.
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