wiring up a double oven and hob

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Hi guys I have just bought a double oven rated at 5.1kw no idea what the hob is rated at I'm taken out a freestanding cooker. Could I run the oven and hob off the one outlet? The current cooker is on a 32amp mcb can I change it to a 40amp would that be ok? I have no idea what the cable from the cu to the outlet is tho is that an issue?
 
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Search cooker diversity and you'll get loads of advice.
 
Hi guys I have just bought a double oven rated at 5.1kw
Lucky you!
no idea what the hob is rated at
You need to find out and come back with the information
I'm taken out a freestanding cooker. Could I run the oven and hob off the one outlet?
Need more information re hob and the circuit before replying
The current cooker is on a 32amp mcb can I change it to a 40amp would that be ok?
Notr unless you have accurate test equipment that can test the EFLI of the circuit and have made a detailed survey of the cable route to determine the current-carrying capacity of the circuit.
I have no idea what the cable from the cu to the outlet is tho is that an issue?
Too blooming right it is an issue, You need to determine the csa of the cable as well.

So you are saying something like
"I am going to buy a car, how fast will it go along a road"

So, need to know about the car, and need to know about the road.

The same applies here


More information = more help.
 
How am I going to find out what the cable is between the cu and outlet when ythe cable is under the floor!! And there is no info on the hob about the rating there isn't even a model number
 
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If and that's a big if the house is designed correct and you don't do anything daft like change a fuse/MCB to a bigger one then if the load is too high the fuse/MCB will open. i.e. fails safe.

The problem arises where the installation relies on fans to cool the hob or oven as once the fuse/MCB has opened then you lose cooling so it can overhead.

Also when one supplies an item with 7.4kW (32 amp) and the item is only designed for 3.7kW (16 amp) then under fault conditions the fuse/MCB may not open before a fire is started.

Most of the house uses a 13A supply with a plug and socket arrangement and the rules say where a over current device smaller than 13A is required it is built into the equipment. But an oven, hob, immersion heater, bathroom fan and the like is fixed not portable so these rules do not apply. Because of the problems of high power in the kitchen and water in the bath room these have been designated as special areas and most more needs to be registered with LABC.

The question of how do I find out is a good one. In the main we check the cable into the isolator in the kitchen and out of consumer unit and if they are the same we assume there are no joints. As to route we have to assume unless we can see to the contrary that originally it was wired correct and we continue to use the same MCB/fuse as before.

With 4 or 6 mm sq we would assume with a 32 amp protection device we are already on the maximum. With 10 mm sq cable we may investigate further and see if we can uprate the fuse.

Other than flex cable does not have an amps rating. The amps it can carry depends on the route.
 

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