alarm call for all

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The Grades come about by ACPO (Association of Chief Police Officers), Insurance Companies, British & European Standards Institutions, oh, and don't forget the Alarm Cos different associations, sitting around tables for months and months arguing about all the ins and outs that have to do with all the legalities of each country's requirements.

In general, the above is followed by the UK section of Europe, the rest, as with everything else, do as they please.

From somewhere within documents printed by the above, many years before you even thought about alarm systems, is where my quote came from, so sorry I did not use " ", here are a couple for you.
 
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I wonder what "enforced" meant in the text you posted.

You can't see it in the original standard, can you?

Perhaps it was an opinion someone added.

I suppose we'll never know what it was supposed to mean.
 
If you're really worried about the alarm going off, don't connect the bell up for the first couple of weeks and then, when you're confident, connect it. However, remember that an alarm without a bell is as useful as a watchdog without a bark! :)

thanks. if i do this, is there a way to see which sensor tripped the alarm via the control panel? to make adjustments
 
But surely as long as the system is installed using grade 3 components, and in compliance with all the regs, it's just as secure wether it's installed by a DIYer or a pro?

For the OP, I like using texecom equipment. It's nice and simple for a diyer to install, it comes with full detailed instructions, it's easy to programme, and very reliable stuff.

I've fitted loads trouble free, and if you get a bit lost installing or programming it, there's lots of people on here who will be able to help you.

thanks for that. i will look into texecom. is it best to buy a kit or can i mix and match without making too many newbie errors?
 
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tataylor1

I'm sorry you have had all this heaped on you.

As you can see, there are some people who really don't like DIY alarms and are not much help to you.

ha its okay. i havent been online over the bank hol and am just reading through it now... its getting as confusing as that 'in response to bernard thread'. pretty alarming this alarm business.

tho thanks all for the help so far :D
 
Thanks to all the alarm guys who have posted so far.

It's all been pretty helpful and I am now looking at texecom devices, when I settle on some kit I will ask again for opinions if that's okay?

Mine will definitely be a diy install because I like to do my own jobs where possible, hopefully not spending too much money on it. I'm looking for a wired setup that covers all downstairs entrance doors and rooms as well as the stairway, and an outbuilding. The regs and insurance info has been helpful, I don't have an alarm requirement but I will check that if I install one it has to be of a certain standard - this is kind of like the spare wheel in an MOT scenario i guess?

I have double glazing that consists of toughened and laminated glass, is there any point including the windows in an alarm setup?

If an alarm I like doesn't have the facility to call/text me when it is tripped, is there a device that allows this feature to be added? An extra box so to speak.

Oh also, whats the weakest point in an alarm setup for burglars? ie: if i broke into your house and the alarm started blipping, if i flicked off the mains electricity switch or wapped it with a sledge would it give up? I ask this because the main panel will prob be sited in a cupboard that houses the mains fuse box, pretty obvious to flick it off i would have thought.

thanks again
 
its getting as confusing as that 'in response to bernard thread'. pretty alarming this alarm business.
It is worrying when people with no knowledge of radio communication give "advice" about alarm systems that rely on radio communications on licence exempt radio channels.

if i flicked off the mains electricity switch or wapped it with a sledge would it give up?
Most wired systems have a battery in the bell box that is trickle charged from the panel. If that trickle charge is cut or another wire ( hold off) is cut then the bell starts to ring powered by the battery in the bell box. Smashing the panel will remove the trickle charge and / or cut the hold off so the bell will ring.

With many low cost DIY wireless systems if the panel is smashed before it can send a message to the bell to tell it to start ringing then the bell will not ring.

Some wireless systems use a regular hold off signal from the panel to the bell in which case smashing the panel will mean the bell will start to ring after a period of time without the hold off messages from the panel.
 
It is possible for an alarm panel to be attacked before it has set the siren going or phoned out.

So it is a great advantage to have the panel, concealed, well away from probable points of entry, for example in an upstairs cupboard.

The entry keypad can be close to your usual exit/entry door.

It can be an advantage to have another keypad upstairs, in or close to your bedroom, especially if the house is large or you are not very fast-moving.
 
thanks john. would you only use keypads? I think they are my preference but iv read people praising fobs and single button devices for their ease.
 
I certainly prefer a keypad. Fobs might be stolen or lost, and you need one per person, or maybe you put it down and can't find it in a hurry.

Some systems allow you to have multiple codes, so each person can have their own, or you might issue one to a cleaner or visitor which you can remove when they leave.
 
If an alarm I like doesn't have the facility to call/text me when it is tripped, is there a device that allows this feature to be added? An extra box so to speak.

Yes, but make sure the alarm has the facility for your speech and/or text dialler to be added.

I'm no expert tho, wait until others give you more input. These guys have forgotten more about alarms than I've learned.
 
If an alarm I like doesn't have the facility to call/text me when it is tripped, is there a device that allows this feature to be added? An extra box so to speak.

Yes, but make sure the alarm has the facility for your speech and/or text dialler to be added.

I'm no expert tho, wait until others give you more input. These guys have forgotten more about alarms than I've learned.

Okay thanks I'll look out for this compatibility option in the specs. I'm definitely on the right forum, which is good. Just a few more newbie (daft) questions and then I'll have a professional (diy-ed) super smart (within budget) alarm system (hopefully never used).
 
Regarding keyfobs...We have keyfobs and a keypad. We find the keyfobs fantastic for returning with hands full of shopping bags etc. I'd go as far as to say if my next house couldn't have them I'd change the system so that it could.

Regarding insurance...As far as I'm aware if you tell your insurance company you have an alarm, then get burgled one day when you didn't set it cos you were only going to the shop, then your insurance won't pay out. Again, as far as I'm aware, it's the same with window locks, no payout if you haven't used them, or if you've left the keys in them. For the extra few quid on the policy maybe you're better off not declaring them? We haven't declared either, but we like the added security of having them fitted anyway.
 
For the extra few quid on the policy maybe you're better off not declaring them? We haven't declared either.
If we consider that a policyholder’s non-disclosure (or misrepresentation) involved a material fact,
If you make a claim and the loss adjuster sees there is an alarm fitted that you have not declared then the insurance company may consider your non-disclosure of the alarm to be a valid reason to decline the claim.
 

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