Ading sockets throughout house

[ban-all-sheds]

Or skirting trunking.

 

[plugwash]

Afaict there are two sorts of skirting trunking.

The "commercial" plastic stuff is very obviously trunking, thus cables in it are obviously not concealed.

Then there is the hollow wooden stuff which looks like ordinary skirting. I'm not sure if this complies with the letter of the regs but IMO it doesn't comply with the spirit. If you can't visually see that the stuff is in-fact trunking then how are you supposed to know there are cables inside that you need to avoid.

 

[Greenie9657]

Buy a Fluke/Multimeter. £20 screwfix

Buy a set of proper test equipment. £200-ish on eBay

Can you suggest a decent set? For a DIYer.....

Hi all

I've used millions of pounds worth of test kit at work and in my own opinion the fluke I bought has done the job. It tells me if Voltage is present and also can con check. I don't need to go through the entire range but it does the job. The more expensive ones will be better but this one is fine.
For the DIYer I'd recommend just the standard one from any electrical wholesales. You don't need diode test or temp, just the basic functions will be ok. But remember I'm not qualified in house electrics but I've a degree in electric engineering due to my job. I'm just the average DIYer. That happens to love electrical work!
Hope this helps.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Then there is the hollow wooden stuff which looks like ordinary skirting. I'm not sure if this complies with the letter of the regs but IMO it doesn't comply with the spirit. If you can't visually see that the stuff is in-fact trunking then how are you supposed to know there are cables inside that you need to avoid.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

For the DIYer I'd recommend just the standard one from any electrical wholesales. You don't need diode test or temp, just the basic functions will be ok.

You're talking there about a multimeter, not a multifunction installation tester, or a low-ohms & insulation resistance/loop impedance & PSSC/RCD tester set.

Different kettles of fish...

 

[round01]

I was going to run the cable under the floor boards then up to the accessory behind the skirting into a channel to the sunk box

its an old council house with 2 doubles in the lounge and one double in each bedroom. The c/u is the old wylex with the fuse wire mcb's which I will change to the b type wylex.

She just wants to add sockets in each room without having to chase up all the walls so I suggested adding a fcu or RCD fcu off one socket in each room and running the 2.5 under the floor to each new point in that room behind the skirting. is that possible and safe??

There is no "safe zone" at the bottom of a wall (even though there is one at the top). So any concealed cable running along behind the skirting board (cables going from an accessory to the underfloor space are ok because they are in the safe zone defined by the accessory) must be installed in a way that is suitable for outside the safe zones. Practically speaking that means either special cable types or steel conduit.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

That's absolutely fine.

 

[Greenie9657]

For the DIYer I'd recommend just the standard one from any electrical wholesales. You don't need diode test or temp, just the basic functions will be ok.

You're talking there about a multimeter, not a multifunction installation tester, or a low-ohms & insulation resistance/loop impedance & PSSC/RCD tester set.

Different kettles of fish...

Yeah I know but like I said I'm just the DIYer. Check voltage is/isn't there, con check from one live to another on a ring (with power off). If I had to fault find to that depth I'd buy an insulation resistance tester but hopefully I won't have to. In the house anyway!

 

[Monkeh]

in my own opinion the fluke I bought has done the job.

It's not a Fluke.

It tells me if Voltage is present and also can con check. I don't need to go through the entire range but it does the job. The more expensive ones will be better but this one is fine.

And how confident are you of the internals? Please feel free to post some detailed pictures..

For the DIYer I'd recommend just the standard one from any electrical wholesales.

Have you SEEN the inside of those?

But remember I'm not qualified in house electrics but I've a degree in electric engineering due to my job.

That should give you ample knowledge to understand how a multimeter works and how it can go wrong.

 

[Greenie9657]

Lets not start arguing on here mate. The OP was asking for help. These posts always end up with electrical tradesmans arguing with DIYers.

 

[Monkeh]

Lets not start arguing on here mate. The OP was asking for help. These posts always end up with electrical tradesmans arguing with DIYers.

I'm not an electrician.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Nor am I:

Yeah I know but like I said I'm just the DIYer.

When it comes to electrics, working to lower standards than a professional just will not do. Wonky shelves, uneven floors, paint with runs and brushhairs in, doors that stick, plumbing joints which leak, crooked/creased wallpaper etc, none of those will kill you.

Flaky electrics can, easily.

If I had to fault find to that depth I'd buy an insulation resistance tester

Those instruments are NOT just for fault finding!

 

[RF Lighting]

I was going to run the cable under the floor boards then up to the accessory behind the skirting into a channel to the sunk box

its an old council house with 2 doubles in the lounge and one double in each bedroom. The c/u is the old wylex with the fuse wire mcb's which I will change to the b type wylex.

She just wants to add sockets in each room without having to chase up all the walls so I suggested adding a fcu or RCD fcu off one socket in each room and running the 2.5 under the floor to each new point in that room behind the skirting. is that possible and safe??

There is no "safe zone" at the bottom of a wall (even though there is one at the top). So any concealed cable running along behind the skirting board (cables going from an accessory to the underfloor space are ok because they are in the safe zone defined by the accessory) must be installed in a way that is suitable for outside the safe zones. Practically speaking that means either special cable types or steel conduit.

You still need to provide RCD protection to all the new concealed cabling and socket outlets you are installing. Simply replacing the old wire fuses is not acceptable (plus it's a complete waste of money)

 

[round01]

ill just find the ring (or radial) and extend it in each room

 

[Greenie9657]

ill just find the ring (or radial) and extend it in each room

thats the easiest way mate. Ive done it in 2 of my rooms with another 4 to go. Keep posting back if you have any questions, ive learnt a lot about house electrics from this forum.