Extractor fan in bathroom off old shower circuit

I'd like the ability to turn it off, since there's a big window in the bathroom that will be open in the summer and do all the ventilation that's required without using 30W for 20 mins.
Surely in summer, when you have the window open, you will often not need to turn the light on?

A 30W fan will run for 33 hours on 1kWh of electricity, so 20 minutes will cost you about 0.1p. Is that of concern to you?
 
I got a manrose humidity one off eBay for £25. Mounts on the ceiling.

Yes it needs adjusting so the cut off is sensible. (But still better than long timer)
And use a manual way of turning it on in timer mode.
E. g light or pull cord.

Thanks but the £25 = 80m^3 per hr. That's not enough air movement for my tastes. Can't you get independent humidistat switches that trigger a separate fan?

The MFR instructions will probably show a 3 pole isolator anyway.

OK, thanks for that. I'll stick to whatever the instructions say.

Ducting - I'm going to use flat PVC ducting to get between the rafter and the stud to the soffit board.

Wiring - about the only part I'm comfortable with. I'm going to base my wiring on this:

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Cost - yeah, you're right, it's insignificant.
 
Sounds all good.

Where are you thinking about placing the 3 pole fan switch?

They do a square 3 pole pull cord that you could put in the bathroom in the place of the shower pull cord - if you safely remove or blank off the old shower wiring.

Would also be an idea to fit a 3 pole fan switch next to the in-line fan in the loft, purely for convenience if you need to maintain the fan, so you don't have to worry about people below flicking it on.
 
I've just ordered this off eBay for a tenner:

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...and am going to install it in place of the double pole shower isolator you can see in the first image I posted in this thread. Not sure if it falls outside zone 2 quite, or even if it needs to as it's a pull cord...but should be fine.

Regarding the shower wiring, I've disconnected it from the consumer unit and the double pole switch pending replacement of the switch. Will leave in situ just in case I need some juicy 10mm^2 cable at some point it in the future.

Isolator in the loft: I'll think about it, not sure I'll bother as I'm fairly sure nobody will go yanking the cord if I tell them not to. Good tip though, and I might after all for the sake of 20 mins and a £3 switch!
 
If that pull cord is connected to the cord coming out of the switch by a small plastic screw connector you can always unscrew the pull cord section when carrying out any maintenance, thereby stopping anyone at floor level from turning it on.
 
Tbh I'm such a wimp when it comes to electrics that I tend to knock off the whole house's supply when doing anything and use a torch if necessary.
 
Better an alive wimp than a dead hero. Your approach is the correct way to ensure your safety when working with electricity.
 
See here if you arent sure how ra roof is constructed
http://www.contractorssolutions.com/fascia_soffits.htm[/QUOTE]
Great link but in my experience 6 different experts will come up with their own 'right way'' to construct a roof.

Personally I have worked on a number roofs that don't have a substantial timber along the ends of the rafters. Sometimes the manufacturers instructions for plastic facia say to remove any timber running along behind the facia to avoid damp being trapped.

Certainly the right place for the fan outlet is the soffit, chances are the facia will not have enough space to take it anyway.
If that pull cord is connected to the cord coming out of the switch by a small plastic screw connector you can always unscrew the pull cord section when carrying out any maintenance, thereby stopping anyone at floor level from turning it on.
I hope it does have the little plastic join if it is in the bathroom, otherwise it does not comply
 

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