Hi all,
I am having a new kitchen fitted and am looking for some advice on appliance switches above worktop. I have come to somewhat of an impasse with the electrician regarding this and would like to clarify what can and cant be done.
I would like to have switches above the worktop for the appliances that will be plugged into unswitched sockets below worktop. I am looking for the switches to be contained in a 3 or 4 (3 appliances so far, maybe 4 in future) gang face plate as there will be a double 13A socket outlet next to this. Basically trying to have a means of isolating the appliances but keeping faceplates and sockets to a minimum.
Electrician would instead like to fuse each individual appliance FCU's for each appliance and has chased and fitted back boxes to suit. The only other alternative offered is a grid system with 20A (I think) DP switches and 13A fuses, so 6-8 gang double height grid which is going to look hideous on the wall. Or this can be put in a cupboard, but a) chasing has been done and I will undoubtedly be charged and b) putting in a cupboard defeats the whole point of why I want switches above worktop.
Kitchen sockets circuit will be 2.5 RFC on 32A fuse at CCU. Appliances will have fused plugs on (hence why I want the unswitched sockets) so presumably don't need additional fuse, unless they were to be hard wired. Appliances will be Washer/Drier, Dishwasher, Hydronic Plinth heater (3A).
Electrician says wants to fuse appliance switches individually to protect the cable from burning. I am confused as to what rating the FCU the same as the flex plug protects - the wire between switch and socket? Should RFC be run in 4mm and is that what the reluctance here is?
Electrician tells me he has never seen what I am asking for, yet a quick search seems to indicate this is a common way of doing things just as the in-cupboard solutions seems to be...
Many thanks for any help.
I am having a new kitchen fitted and am looking for some advice on appliance switches above worktop. I have come to somewhat of an impasse with the electrician regarding this and would like to clarify what can and cant be done.
I would like to have switches above the worktop for the appliances that will be plugged into unswitched sockets below worktop. I am looking for the switches to be contained in a 3 or 4 (3 appliances so far, maybe 4 in future) gang face plate as there will be a double 13A socket outlet next to this. Basically trying to have a means of isolating the appliances but keeping faceplates and sockets to a minimum.
Electrician would instead like to fuse each individual appliance FCU's for each appliance and has chased and fitted back boxes to suit. The only other alternative offered is a grid system with 20A (I think) DP switches and 13A fuses, so 6-8 gang double height grid which is going to look hideous on the wall. Or this can be put in a cupboard, but a) chasing has been done and I will undoubtedly be charged and b) putting in a cupboard defeats the whole point of why I want switches above worktop.
Kitchen sockets circuit will be 2.5 RFC on 32A fuse at CCU. Appliances will have fused plugs on (hence why I want the unswitched sockets) so presumably don't need additional fuse, unless they were to be hard wired. Appliances will be Washer/Drier, Dishwasher, Hydronic Plinth heater (3A).
Electrician says wants to fuse appliance switches individually to protect the cable from burning. I am confused as to what rating the FCU the same as the flex plug protects - the wire between switch and socket? Should RFC be run in 4mm and is that what the reluctance here is?
Electrician tells me he has never seen what I am asking for, yet a quick search seems to indicate this is a common way of doing things just as the in-cupboard solutions seems to be...
Many thanks for any help.