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Well, firstly there is no guarantee that the moulded-on plug on an appliance is any good, there are documented cases of them being anything but, and suffering catastrophic failure as a result.
Secondly the mechanical design of BS 546 plug/socket connection is better than the 1363 one, and more suited to high current loads which never get unplugged in normal use and for which therefore you get no advance warning of overheating. Ditto reason for preferring wiring to a flex outlet plate or FCU.
Cookers and hobs are frequently wired to outlet plates with a switch on the wall. I've never seen anybody here devote anything like as much effort to criticising that and seeking alternatives as they do to criticising the idea of connecting other appliances by the same method.
Hardwiring in an appliance is just silly. There are 101 other faults that usually require the appliance to be removed, other than a fuse blowning. ... Who wants to be under a work top wiring an appliance in and out, when you could just plug it in.
In theory. Until the damned plug of the appliance stops it being pushed right back to the wall and causes it to stick out. ... For this reason I have previously had to use a flex outlet below the counter, with a FCU (or grid with fuses) above.
I've solved the same potential issue in the past by having the socket a bit to the side of the appliance aperture, accessible by pulling the drawer out of an adjacent unit.
In theory. Until the damned plug of the appliance stops it being pushed right back to the wall and causes it to stick out. ... For this reason I have previously had to use a flex outlet below the counter, with a FCU (or grid with fuses) above.
I've solved the same potential issue in the past by having the socket a bit to the side of the appliance aperture, accessible by pulling the drawer out of an adjacent unit.
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