Is something wrong with this?

[Alex evans]

This is a pug 207 59' front driverside wheel

The one bolt is completely diffrent then the other side. Like.. completely.
The other front wheel has 3 and a locking wheelnut, but dosnt look like this at all!

 

[rsgaz]

Looks like it was a locking wheel nut, but the top has sheared off.

Removal will be very difficult indeed.

 

[Burnerman]

Got to agree with rs.....the centre may be soft enough to drill, and I have MIG welded a nut on before. The alloy didn't like it though
John

 

[Alex evans]

Sounds expensive. I know what garrage it has to be... But, i know theyl just either deny it or say it wasnt them ect. Would of been about 4 month ago

 

[Keithmac]

Probably snapped the head off when tightening it up which is worse case for removing it.

If you are going to try drilling, do that before any welding takes place as the weld will be a pain/ impossible to drill through.

 

[Alex evans]

How should i dril it?

Surley, if i can just drill in by half a inch to an inch with a 3-4mill bit.

Then i just need a way to rotate the drillbit to undo

 

[JohnD]

mistake

 

[Keithmac]

You need a signifcant amount of torque to remove the bolt, probably 10mm hole with a spline bit knocked in or a good quality easy-out.

Might be worth a drive round a few tyre places to see what they would charge for removal?.

 

[Burnerman]

See how well you can drill the centre with say a 4mm HSS bit. If that works you can gradually increase the drill size.
I have some Irwin (I think ) removers which I've used once with success.
When I MIG'd a square section bar onto the one I've mentioned, the bolt came out a treat but the alloy wheel was ruined. £50 on ebay for a 206 wheel.
John

 

[Diy guy]

What I have done before if it’s a spinning collar type is knock the spinner off then hammer a socket on and off you go. If it’s not a spinning collar hammer a socket on and off you go anyway.

Use a 6 side socket preferably impact so it won’t crack you will not get the nut out easy after it.

 

[Mike10]

See how well you can drill the centre with say a 4mm HSS bit. If that works you can gradually increase the drill size.
I have some Irwin (I think ) removers which I've used once with success.

I had a locking wheel bolt that had been done up seriously tight by someone who had the air gun set way too high at the garage.
It got chewed up trying to remove it with the key. I tried some removers but they wouldn't bite enough to overcome the excessive torque. I would definitely give them a go in your case though if you can obtain some.
In the end I drilled into the centre of it with progressivley larger drill bits. I measured and drilled down just as far as where it threads into the hub (so as not to risk ruining the threads it went in to.
With the other bolts removed, once I had drilled it out enough I could snap the head of it off by grabbing the wheel and rocking it.
The bit of bolt that was left in the thread was easy to remove once the tension was off it.
It took ages to do, but sometimes you get down to the last option and just have to grit your teeth and do it.
Be careful and don't snap a drill in the hole though, then you will be in trouble.

 

[gasbanni]

This might help remembered it from years back.

 

[Burnerman]

I'm wondering if this device would work with a sheared off nut? I have my doubts!
John

 

[Nige F]

Got to agree with rs.....the centre may be soft enough to drill, and I have MIG welded a nut on before. The alloy didn't like it though
John

When you welded the nut on - I guess you filled the thread hole with weld ? Leaving enough room for a socket on the nut. I just now thought of a metal tube instead of the nut - closer O/D to the hole in the wheel and about 25 mm longer than the wheel face. Then the MIG nozzle down the middle. On the end an old socket MIG'ed on to take the air wrench. Old sockets are useful - I recently found a 19/32 AF in my box to fit our water meter . Never used the thing before

 

[Burnerman]

I actually welded a length of 10mm square bar onto the sheared nut and turned that with a large adjustable spanner. It actually came out quite well, and I'm sure the huge heat helped!
The alloy wheel was melted around the nut well though, but it had to come off as there was brake failure. The owner was happy enough with the outcome as I'd said what the likely consequences would be.
Your tube method sounds pretty sensible, thinking about it!
John