Intergas boiler

Not a DIY job I'm afraid - in common with most other makes of boiler, the case forms the safety room seal and as such should only be removed and replaced by a Gas Safe Engineer capable of carrying out the regulatory 26.9 checks on completion. DIYers should not be removing it to do anything at all.
You are wrong. The seal on an Intergas case does not seal the products of combustion only air. Will you please give us some legal reference to your assertions?
 
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The seal on an Intergas case does not seal the products of combustion

I didn't say it did. I said it forms the room seal, which is entirely correct. Having said that, if the flue turret had become damaged or the seal had failed, the casing could be filled with products of combustion including carbon monoxide. The correct tools are required to check integrity, and an integrity check is part of the required checks having worked on the appliance.


Will you give us some legal reference to your assertions please?

I already have done - The 26.9 checks I referred to earlier are part of the Gas Safety, Installation and Use regulations.
 
Having said that, if the flue turret had become damaged or the seal had failed, the casing could be filled with products of combustion including carbon monoxide

And what would prevent these products of combustion leaving the boiler from the un-sealed bottom of the boiler case and thus entering the room ? How many modern boilers have a base plate / gland plate that is sealed to all four sides of the casing ? Older boilers did have sealed bases as the cavity inside the casing was part of the air supply to the combustion chamber.

Stating that front cover should not be removed only because this would break the room seal can be seen as in-accurate when it is obvious that the case is not sealed at its base.

Providing a more accurate reason for not removing the front cover would make the advice given more credible.

I agree that DIY work on boilers and other gas appliances can be hazadous to life and property
 
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That's garbage...the type approval for room sealed boilers permits a certain amount of leakage from combustion/flue seals within the casing. The outer sealed casing has always been an essential part of the boilers overall safety system. This fact was very recently highlighted by a major boiler manufacturer with the issue of a technical bulletin to remind installers. Reg 26.9 does not go into the minutiae of checking but the integrity of casing seals is obviously part of the process and has done so since the advent of room sealed boilers.
 
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Simple question.
As a gas engineer, would you install one based on merit? From engineers I have had positive feedback.
Nothing wrong with intergas products but beware of inexperienced numpty installers and same quality maintenance operatives who dont have a clue with the product in question.

specialist products need specialist installation and onward maintenance. Just get it installed and maintained from the same person,get to know the installer rather than using a multi appliance flue prod only service company.

"Mike2007, Your thread has been drifted by others to an extent its been so hard-work :mrgreen: to really understand your original request.

:mrgreen:
 
the type approval for room sealed boilers permits a certain amount of leakage from combustion/flue seals within the casing
Does that not require that a test is performed on the air "sealed" in the casing to ensure these permitted leakages are not excessive.
 
Any work integral to a gas boiler involving tools needs competence,relying on a past safety certificate in a fail.

same on any other systems if a handy person,neighbour,family friend exchanges a pump/unblock's a cold feed or similar then the gas boiler operates,whilst the gas boiler was not working it was safe.
Now the gas boiler is working some inspection is required to ensure it's safe to leave in operation,i blame this diy site.

:cry:
 
Any work integral to a gas boiler involving tools needs competence,relying on a past safety certificate in a fail.
Sorry but I don’t understand the above.


same on any other systems if a handy person,neighbour,family friend exchanges a pump/unblock's a cold feed or similar then the gas boiler operates,whilst the gas boiler was not working it was safe.
Now the gas boiler is working some inspection is required to ensure it's safe to leave in operation,i blame this diy site.

:cry:
I don’t understand this either.
What point are you trying to make?
Replacing a pump that is not integral to boiler and/or clearing a system blockage is a moot point as to whether the appliance is safe to use or not.
Advice on the installation of nest etc is more of a concern, alterations to the controls wiring when utilising a unvented cylinder should not be undertaken by the DIYer nor should any advice be forthcoming.
Many threads on this site are for advise on controls wiring, are the DiYers ever asked if the system incorporates an unvented cylinder?
Unless G3 registered then the DIYer shouldn’t be interfering with the controls wiring.
 
I fix all the different brands and models of boilers, as a local independent boiler engineer.
Took a 14yr old Worcester out of my own house last year and fitted a 36/30 hre. Always fit intergas with customers too.

4 moving parts, so little to go wrong mechanically. Simple boiler but ugly! Bung it in a cupboard or garage, doesn't matter what it looks like. It's there to make water hot not look nice.

Head office are a PITA to deal with, but, if you're nice to the local rep or area manager. They are much easier to deal with.

If you want a shiite boiler but ace backup, ideal and then Worcester, in that order.
 
Maybe a silly question here but what moving parts are there in a boiler? I have a Vaillant Ecotec plus 18 heat only boiler. How many moving parts does that have?
 
Fan pump gas valve and flow switch for hot water.

Most other boilers have diverter valves, diaphragm, pump proving switch etc etc.
Also no plate heat exchanger in an intergas, which , are prone to blockages on dirty systems.
 
Fan pump gas valve and flow switch for hot water.

Most other boilers have diverter valves, diaphragm, pump proving switch etc etc.
Also no plate heat exchanger in an intergas, which , are prone to blockages on dirty systems.

Well some don't have all of that but have the plate and diverter valve which are important for safety
 
Maybe a silly question here but what moving parts are there in a boiler? I have a Vaillant Ecotec plus 18 heat only boiler. How many moving parts does that have?

Sorry, my reply doesn't answer that question.

Heat only boilers will usually have a fan and gas valve, pump is usually external. I'm not familiar with that model tbh.
 
And what would prevent these products of combustion leaving the boiler from the un-sealed bottom of the boiler case and thus entering the room ? How many modern boilers have a base plate / gland plate that is sealed to all four sides of the casing ?
Correct Bernard. The combi in question is the Intergas Rapid. The bottom section is not sealed. The swing down electrical section is also not sealed.
 
alterations to the controls wiring when utilising a unvented cylinder should not be undertaken by the DIYer nor should any advice be forthcoming.

You have to cater for all possibilities.

The safety systems on a boiler and/or unvented cylinder should be totally separate from the control system.

The safety system should be able to keep the installation safe no matter what the control system instructs the boiler to do.

That said a DIYer may be without the necessary knowledge and/or competance to install a control system correctly, if that happens then the safety systems in the boiler should prevent the boiler operating in an unsafe manner. ( damaged PCBs and other non hazardous damage can happen provided the safety systems still are effective )
 
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