Clamp for Mitre Saw?

[Foresty Forest]

What type of clamp could I use to fix wooden picture moulding to my mitre saw? I use moulding from about an inch up to 4 inches. Holding by hand is causing slight movement and an inaccurate cut. My saw is old and basic, it doesn't have any fixtures for an integral clamp. So I'm stuck with using a separate clamp.

Thanks

 

[big-all]

first point the work should be fully supported and the hand doing nothing more than back and slightly downward pressure
so iff you walk away the work stays in place
saw clamps may not work very well with shaped work??

 

[ETAF]

some pictures of the mitre saw, typical moulding may help, as would make and model.

Some Fence, you can clamp to, my dewalt you cant as its curved - but depends on moulding, and fence etc
So pictures may help come up with a solution

 

[Foresty Forest]

Thanks - here's the saw

 

[Foresty Forest]

And a piece of the 4" 10cm moulding...

 

[Deleted member 174758]

You could always build an extension table to support the material over a greater length, then add a piece of sandpaper to the saw table to the left of the turntable and at points along the extension table (using spray adhesive). Adding bits of sanding paper to a machine or jig bed to reduce movement is a very old trick indeed and will reduce any tendency of the material to move when cut if only moderate pressure is applied.

After that, if you are still unhappy with the clamping, consider getting a rubber tipped spring clamp or two to hold the work in place or for larger pieces a couple of quick release clamps such as the Irwin XP quick release clamps in a 150mm size

 

[^woody^]

The clamps go in those big holes at the corners

 

[big-all]

i assume its when your cutting at a say 35+% angle you are getting side slip??
ways to avoid this can be a length stop so the work will be held and not move
or a bit off say 2x1flat clamped under the work on the opposite side to hold the work against the saw table edge
this can be say 6" long and non slip or router mat strip affixed or wrapped round and a rubber jawed clamp or two
there are many many hints and jigs you can use but only worth doing iff you can plan it around several mass-produced components where you will absorb the jig time by quicker accurately all the same components

 

[blup]

Use a sacrificial fence slightly higher and wider than the one with the saw, bolting or screwing through the holes at the top. Clamp the moulding vertically. Use the best quality fine toothed blade you can get.

Blup

 

[blup]

You might be lucky and find this fits, the price is pretty outrageous though:

Makita 122563-7 Mitre Saw Horizontal Clamp (ffx.co.uk)

Blup

 

[Foresty Forest]

The clamps go in those big holes at the corners

View attachment 234010

Do you know what keeps the clamp in the hole? Doesn't tightening it push it up and out?

 

[^woody^]

Do you know what keeps the clamp in the hole? Doesn't tightening it push it up and out?

Normally, there is a a thumbscrew to tighten, but generally the metal peg will hold in by friction once you tighten the piece down.

 

[Foresty Forest]

Normally, there is a a thumbscrew to tighten, but generally the metal peg will hold in by friction once you tighten the piece down.

Thanks. I should have asked, do the clamps fit universally - Can I buy any make?

 

[^woody^]

You'll need to check. A lot of saws are just re branded so may share parts. The ones I've see all seem to be about 12/13mm bar, but you may need to do a bit of research - try parts catalogues

 

[bsr]

Evolution sell clamps as spares:
https://shop.evolutionpowertools.com/collections/spares