Outside tap

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I have an old outside tap that is dripping and weeping from where the pipe enters the bottom of the unit.

I want to replace it, but I cannot turn off the water. The mains stopcock is after the tap, inside the kitchen. There is an outside stopcock, but it is underneath large paving slabs that I cannot lift.

Where I live is very remote, and it is difficult to get a plumber. On top of that I am old and I am shielding.

I was thinking of some possible options, that I would like help on.

Try to freeze the pipe. Perhaps wait till winter.

Turn on all the cold taps and try to fit a straight coupling with an isolation valve.

Are there any other ideas?

Thanks.
 

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The pipe is 15mm. About 6" below the hole, you can just make out where it connects at right angles to much thicker piping. Not sure if it is lead piping there.
 
Freeze the pipe . It's a wonder that doesn't freeze in winter ,very poor installation really.
 
The mains stopcock is after the tap, inside the kitchen.
That’s not good practice either. If you can’t lift the slab, then freezing it is. Have you tried tightening the nut? Also it’s not secured to the timber anymore.
 
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Thanks for the replies.


The wood at the back is rotten, so I am replacing it with a new piece. It is a poor installation, but I do cover the pipe with insulation in winter. The metalwork is in a bad state, and a new tap kit only costs a tenner.

I have more questions if you could help.

Will the pipe freeze OK, if it is dripping? (Water moving slightly.)

How long have I got to work on replacing the tap?

Can you recommend a decent freezing kit?
 
Rothenberger freeze Pak ,will give you around 20 mins work time. Yes ,will freeze if tap drips.
I suggest you buy a stopcock . Freeze pipe ,cut pipe with pipe slice ,fit stopcock. You can then work above the stopcock at your leisure to fit garden tap.
 
It also depends on the weather, and if soldering, we use Arctic Hayes, and they’re supposed to last up to 30 mins iirc.
 
Thanks for the help. I'm going to have a go at freezing it, using compression joints.


The nut underneath has been done up really tight. I thought I would take off the paint at the top of the pipe, and cut the pipe as high up as I can. After cleaning this, I can fit the new tap hopefully.

Last two questions:

Is it a good idea to get brass screws for the backing plate so that they don't rust?

What is the best way to insulate the pipework? (Having said that, we don't get much snow or hard frosts, just plenty of wind and rain.)
 
Thanks for the help. I'm going to have a go at freezing it, using compression joints.


The nut underneath has been done up really tight. I thought I would take off the paint at the top of the pipe, and cut the pipe as high up as I can. After cleaning this, I can fit the new tap hopefully.

Last two questions:

Is it a good idea to get brass screws for the backing plate so that they don't rust?

What is the best way to insulate the pipework? (Having said that, we don't get much snow or hard frosts, just plenty of wind and rain.)

Brass or stainless steel screws. The replacement timber needs to be rot proof, if you want it to last. You can buy outdoor pipe insulation, although you could simply wrap it in old woollen jumper, if you protect it from the elements.
 
Insulation doesn’t stop freezing altogether, just delays it, so could prevent it in winter, but another beast from the east and it’s likely to freeze and burst.
 
If you have a pick axe dig a little hole at the edge of the slab, put the axe there and lever the slab up and to the side.
You really need permanent access to the main stopcock.
 

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