Trianco Eurostar 130 Oil Boiler

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12 Oct 2017
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I've had this boiler for some 25 years and it has given good service, albeit with various replacement photocells, burner tips, baffle plates, and it had a new pump and motor fitted some five years ago.

Now there is a new problem. No ignition on starting before it locks out, which suggests that there is no spark.

However, there's is no local fuel shutoff, only at the tank, and with nearly 10 metres of piping in between I can't really test for a spark without disconnecting the pipe, though there is no evidence of smoke from the flue on trying to start, but there is a buzzing from the control box as though a contactor may be clicking. I've unplugged the cover, and see no blackening of the circuit board but don't want to open it further.

Does anyone have any ideas?
 
I really wanted to keep it going for another 12 months if possible while I take the opportunity to carefully consider my options, including the idea of replacing it with a heat pump.
 
Isn't there a fire valve on the fuel line close to the burner that you can shut off, like one of these?.

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No, unless it's underground between the tank and the boiler, which is extremely unlikely. Certainly nothing in the two metres of pipe near the boiler.
 
No, unless it's underground between the tank and the boiler, which is extremely unlikely. Certainly nothing in the two metres of pipe near the boiler.
That's very unusual, to say the least, generally its installed at the boiler and very close to the pump inlet..
The buzzing you hear may be the fan motor not starting, although this normally sounds more like a humming. Try and observe the fan impeller, if not turning, with power off, you should be able to turn it by inserting a small screwdriver and levering it, if you can then possibly the motor capacitor.
 
That's very unusual, to say the least, generally its installed at the boiler and very close to the pump inlet..
The buzzing you hear may be the fan motor not starting, although this normally sounds more like a humming. Try and observe the fan impeller, if not turning, with power off, you should be able to turn it by inserting a small screwdriver and levering it, if you can then possibly the motor capacitor.
I've had another look and there's nothing close to the pump inlet. I found a valve where the pipe runs behind the boiler, but the valve wheel just turns and turns without closing. I counted 50 half turns, and no resistance at all so it's not closing.
Regarding the fan impeller, with the inlet hose removed and my hand on the impeller casing inlet I could feel the impeller suction so it's definitely turning. Where would the motor capacitor be located?
 
That might be it??.

The normal type, like mine, below when turned anticlockwise will cause the spindle to rise, opening the valve and then stop, tirning it clockwise causes the springloaded spindle to close and when finally closed the valve wheel will just screw right off the spindle. Yours may be of a different design, it may well be SHUT, keep turning it anticlockwise and see does it finally come to a hard stop, if so, the valve is now fully opened.?.

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On that burner, if you want to check for a spark, then remove the lead from the solenoid coil and start the burner. Just be sure the photocell is still in the dark.
also, because the nozzle is wet does not mean the the fuel is reaching the nozzle at the right pressure.
me thinks time for a qualified technician to check this simple burner properly.
 
Yes, or if the fire valve isn't open, I would suggest removing the oil supply pipe from the pump and checking for a flow, as a start.
 
Thanks very much for all your prompt replies., and for info, I have a heating engineer conversant with oil boilers attending tomorrow, and I'll post an update in due course.
 

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