Socket in 18mm chipboard

[cdbe]

How do you guys deal with this? I was going to use a dry lining box but the chipboard is too thick for the lugs.

The wall behind isn't the best for fixing a metal box to. I don't want a pattress box.

Is there some magic trick? I reckon I could probably drill some holes in the sides of a metal box and nail it in.

 

[Murdochcat]

Try a different make of back box or a 44 mm unit

 

[Lower]

Fix battons to two sides of the hole and screw a metal box to that.

 

[SUNRAY]

How do you guys deal with this? I was going to use a dry lining box but the chipboard is too thick for the lugs.

The wall behind isn't the best for fixing a metal box to. I don't want a pattress box.

Is there some magic trick? I reckon I could probably drill some holes in the sides of a metal box and nail it in.

View attachment 380517

I had the same issue but 3/4" steel (...yeah horrible, used to be a strongroom with 9" concrete blocks built round the outside with up to 2 inch cavity ...) I got PB boxes from CEF with a blue cam arrangement rather than the regulaur snap-in clips designed for double layers of PB.

 

[cdbe]

I managed to "side nail" a metal box, which already had some holes in - 6 nails. It's just an FCU for a fridge so I'm sure it will be ok.

I did look at a deeper dry lining box but the ones I have the lugs don't seem to slide back any further - those CEF ones sound like the thing in future.

 

[opps]

The following will work with depths up to 20mm

https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/242702-1-gang-35mm-deep-dry-lining-box

 

[sparkwright]

I managed to "side nail" a metal box, which already had some holes in - 6 nails. It's just an FCU for a fridge so I'm sure it will be ok.

I did look at a deeper dry lining box but the ones I have the lugs don't seem to slide back any further - those CEF ones sound like the thing in future.

View attachment 380518

View attachment 380519

Yes, this is how it's done - and that's what the holes are for.
This is how electrical flush boxes were fitted into skirting boards back in the day.
Personally, I would have used screws rather than nails, as removing it will be a sod.
But it's done now.

 

[sparkymarka]

Mk used to make a flange box ….i used them on my last kitchen in rear of units with 18mm backs …not sure if the cut out is the same as dry liners ?

 

[JohnD]

Wot no grommets?

View attachment 380518

 

[cdbe]

Wot no grommets?

They're there, just zoom in.

 

[foxhole]

You can use metal box they have holes you can screw thru the sides, more secure than nails and easier to fit.
You can use plastic cavity box , cut off external flap and screw thru the sides, or use a multi tool to reduce the thicknesses of timber for normal fitting.

 

[ebee]

With the "Fastafix" type box you can drill a tiny hole , two at each side to line up the flange assembly and box then cut the flange off on the outside of the box with a junior hacksaw , this leaves a box that will fit snug and the inner flanges with the accessory screw nut inserts intact.
A similar idea the the #5 idea but just left and right fixings for little woodscrews to hold them in place

 

[sparkwright]

The question is WHY don't they make a dry-line box that easily fits thicker materials?
A typical example are walls that have two layers of plasterboard.

 

[SUNRAY]

The question is WHY don't they make a dry-line box that easily fits thicker materials?
A typical example are walls that have two layers of plasterboard.

I had the same issue but 3/4" steel (...yeah horrible, used to be a strongroom with 9" concrete blocks built round the outside with up to 2 inch cavity ...) I got PB boxes from CEF with a blue cam arrangement rather than the regulaur snap-in clips designed for double layers of PB.

 

[morqthana]

Maybe there's a market for sockets etc with their own removable cover on the back, which fixes to the socket, and the socket is then screwed to the plasterboard or cabinet?