All electric cooker

[TryAgain1]

At the minute I use 12m of 6mm2 twin/earth cable (going through insulated joists) starting with a B32 RCBO going to a 45A DP switch which then goes to a 45A cooker outlet which is behind the existing gas hob/electric oven cooker.

I'm looking to future proof for an all electric cooker (electric oven/electric hob). To do this I have already threaded about 10m of 10mm2 twin/earth cable through insulated joists. I will pay an electrician later on to connect the 10mm2 to a B45 RCBO. The 10mm2 cable is about 2m too short to reach the cooker outlet position so I will need to use a 60A junction box (1) located under the floorboards (at half joist depth so 100mm deep), then the 10mm2 cable goes to a 45A DP 1 gang switch (2) (with a 25mm backbox (2.1)) then to a 45A cooker outlet (3)

After completion there will be 2 cooker outlets on the wall behind the existing gas/electric cooker, 1 for existing 6mm2 gas/electric and the other for 10mm2 all electric (future use).

Here's a list of kit I plan to use:

(1) junction box (connects 10mm2 together as original cable not long enough) https://www.screwfix.com/p/knightsb...te/379ya#product_additional_details_container

(2) Kitchen cooker switch https://www.screwfix.com/p/essentials-45a-1-gang-dp-cooker-switch-white/8855d

(2.1) backbox https://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-1-gang-dry-lining-knockout-box-35mm/44827

(3) Cooker outlet https://www.screwfix.com/p/crabtree-capital-45a-unswitched-cooker-outlet-plate-white/7359k

Can provide pics if needed

For the 45A switch (2) can I reuse a capped off 1 gang socket on the stud(partition) wall adjacent to the existing cooker? The capped off 1 gang socket is a distance from the existing gas/electric cooker of 21cm horizontally, and is 13cm above the 60cm high countertop (aligned with the existing cooker switch)
Does the cooker switch/cooker outlet backboxes need to be screwed into wood within the stud(partition) wall or just plasterboard?
I accidentally shaved about 1mm off the sheath of an adjacent twin/earth cable whilst drilling the holes for the 10mm2 cable - NOTE THAT THE SHEATH IS STILL INTACT NO COPPER IS SHOWING AND THE RCBO DID NOT TRIP. I wrapped electrical tape over the damaged sheath. Is this repair ok?
And for the new cooker outlet (3) does this need to be at the same height as the existing cooker outlet? And say a horizontal separation of minimum 10cm?

 

[morqthana]

I'm looking to future proof for an all electric cooker (electric oven/electric hob). To do this I have already threaded about 10m of 10mm2 twin/earth cable through insulated joists.

Probably a complete waste of time and effort and money.

I will pay an electrician later on to connect the 10mm2 to a B45 RCBO.

Really.

The 10mm2 cable is about 2m too short to reach the cooker outlet position so I will need to use a 60A junction box (1) located under the floorboards (at half joist depth so 100mm deep),

FGS why, oh why, oh why have you done that? What possible reason did you have for not using one piece of cable which was long enough?

I've read here that old-fashioned screw terminal junction boxes aren't allowed under floors any more,

However those boxes cannot be used in concealed locations, so are totally unsuitable for this application.

so your whole plan may crumble on contact with an electrician.

 

[pete01]

A 32 amp 6mm circuit is fine now and in the future, probably

Upto 20kw anyway

 

[TryAgain1]

Probably a complete waste of time and effort and money.




Really.




FGS why, oh why, oh why have you done that? What possible reason did you have for not using one piece of cable which was long enough?

I've read here that old-fashioned screw terminal junction boxes aren't allowed under floors any more, so your whole plan may crumble on contact with an electrician.

There is no 'maintenance free' 10mm2 junction box. Can I put the 45A DP switch inside a cupboard instead (this way the 10mm2 cable should reach without the need for a junction box)?

 

[morqthana]

There is no 'maintenance free' 10mm2 junction box.

null

In various industrial applications and modern building installations, WAGO’s wide and versatile range of rail-mount terminal blocks provides more than just reliable electrical connections.

www.wago.com

 

[EFLImpudence]

The 10mm2 cable is about 2m too short to reach the cooker outlet position so I will need to use a 60A junction box (1) located under the floorboards (at half joist depth so 100mm deep), then the 10mm2 cable goes to a 45A DP 1 gang switch (2) (with a 25mm backbox (2.1)) then to a 45A cooker outlet (3)

Does that make sense? Shouldn't it go to a switch first?

 

[ericmark]

There is a similar thread on the Screwfix forum, to which I said:-
I assume not really what you have done, you just want to start a debate? I did look at joining some SWA cable, and it was cheaper to get new cable as to buying the joints, clearly maintenance free, so either shrink sleeve or resin filled, neither are cheap.

When working on the Falklands and all the supplies we wanted were on the next boat, I did try some repairs, the silicon sealant then rapped in insulation tape seemed to work, also self amalgamating tape, seemed OK if not pressure on the cable, Denso tape did not work, 18 months latter noted the snow melted over the joint.

But the idea was to open up the joints once the supplies arrived, just some got missed.

To sign an insulation certificate, one must have done the work, you can get three signature versions, with design, installation, and inspection and testing all having separate signatures, but with domestic often also need a compliance certificate or completion certificate, and although theory could use the completion certificate, that is very expensive, so in real terms, you simply can't DIY any of the work for a reasonable price.

So the best option is getting the electrician to do all.

If I was asked to take over a job, started by someone else, it would be likely thanks, but no, thanks, even following on from electricians I have had problems, for a colleague, where one knows the level of workmanship, maybe, but even when one has designed the installation, and agreed the client can do some of the donkey work, I have had problems, mainly work not completed on the timescale agreed, and either I have to do the work the client had agreed to do, or waste the time taken to drive to the job, and then sit there twiddling my fingers for a day. So my son decided not worth the hassle, all or nothing, and I think most electricians will agree to the client making good, but nothing which if not done on time could waste time. It of course happens with other trades, but in the main they do tell you when something has delayed the work.

I did one job where the LABC was in control, and were going to issue the completion certificate, they wanted to see my test gear, and confirm what my qualifications were, they would not allow my son to do the inspection and testing, they did with some persuasions allow me to inspect and test. The problem was, if a third party was doing the inspection and testing, one had to wait at given points before I can continue, and two it would cost nearly as much as the jobs labour would cost anyway. In Wales the fee is £100 plus vat for first £2000 worth of work, plus the cost of any inspector.

 

[TryAgain1]

Does that make sense? Shouldn't it go to a switch first?

Yes that's what I meant. So to the 45A DP switch then to then cooker outlet.

 

[TryAgain1]

null

In various industrial applications and modern building installations, WAGO’s wide and versatile range of rail-mount terminal blocks provides more than just reliable electrical connections.

www.wago.com

Have looked. There is no 10mm2 wago junction box. Can I put the 45A DP switch inside a cupboard?

 

[ericmark]

Have looked. There is no 10mm2 wago junction box. Can I put the 45A DP switch inside a cupboard?

I know, that's why I listed either a shrink sleeve or an epoxy resin type junction, and of course you will also need a set of crimp pliers and crimps for 10 mm². Yes, using a cooker outlet plate would work

but you still have a problem getting it signed off, so just let a scheme member electrician do it all, it will be cheaper that way.

 

[EFLImpudence]

. Can I put the 45A DP switch inside a cupboard?

Yes.

 

[TryAgain1]

Yes.

Which part of the cupboard maximises access, front left, at back, or front right?

 

[TryAgain1]

I know, that's why I listed either a shrink sleeve or an epoxy resin type junction, and of course you will also need a set of crimp pliers and crimps for 10 mm². Yes, using a cooker outlet plate would work View attachment 389015but you still have a problem getting it signed off, so just let a scheme member electrician do it all, it will be cheaper that way.

Is there such a thing as a shrink sleeve that I can wrap around the 6mm2 cable (with damaged sheath) ?

 

[Scally-Ho]

Is there such a thing as a shrink sleeve that I can wrap around the 6mm2 cable (with damaged sheath) ?

Self-amalgamating tape If the link times-out then search product 23876 in Toolststion.

Self Amalgamating Repair Tape

• For pipes, hoses and electrical cables • Provides a watertight seal• Dielectric strength of 35kV/mm

www.toolstation.com

 

[EFLImpudence]

Which part of the cupboard maximises access, front left, at back, or front right?

Well - obviously the front but you can't put it there.

It would be best to fit it to the wall at the back rather than the panels of a cupboard; access not being the priority after deciding to put it in a cupboard.

The switch is not an actual requirement so you can put it anywhere you want - within reason and safety.