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Junction box choice

Which method?

  • Box with lever connectors

    Votes: 3 50.0%
  • Box with push-fit connectors

    Votes: 3 50.0%
  • Butt crimps with individual and whole cable heat-shrink

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Butt crimps with built-in adhesive heat-shrink, plus whole cable

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Inline push splices with individual and whole cable heat-shrink

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    6
Joined
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So I've removed a redundant spur cable from a ring main, and am left with the old skool round junction box under the floorboards now just joining the main circuit cable.

I can't (without far too much moving furniture and lifting floors) get at the other ends of the cables to replace the run with one unbroken length so a joint will have to remain.

Figured I'd replace the old round JB with something more 21st century, as "accessibility" will mean lifting the corner of a fitted carpet and unscrewing a "trap-door" section of floorboards. As an aside, the old JB screw terminals were still as tight as could be, and it has to have been there for decades (just lying there, not screwed down).

So, time to vote - I've got these choices.

Wago-type box fixed to a joist, with lever connectors

Ditto with push-fit connectors

Butt crimps (ratchet crimper), staggered, individually heat-shrink wrapped, or use of crimps with built in adhesive and heat-shrink. Then the whole area heat-shrink wrapped over the top. I know opinions vary re crimping solid wire.

Inline push-fit splices staggered, individually heat-shrink wrapped. Then the whole area heat-shrink wrapped over the top.

Choice is a wonderful thing - back in the day you had round JBs or those strips of connectors where you cut off as many as you needed, and that was it.

I was going to have "twist the ends together and wrap in insulation tape" as a joke, but somebody would have voted for it....
 
These are good if you've got the slack

Screenshot_20250810_175551_Chrome.jpg
 
My answer would depend on the type of existing cables. Are they single stranded metric or the older (and IMO superior) imperial stranded cables such as 7/.029" .
 
Box with either lever or push in connectors. Only difference is some stranded cables are not suitable for push in connectors.

Many crimps and crimp tools are total rubbish so forget those.
Heatshrink requires heating and the possibility of things being burnt or set on fire, so generally not a good idea.
Heatshrink also takes longer.
 
Heatshrink requires heating and the possibility of things being burnt or set on fire, so generally not a good idea.
Heatshrink also takes longer.

Time is no problem. And I've got a gun meant for heat-shrink, wouldn't be using a paint-stripping one or a lighter.
 
I've got the slack.

I've also got wago boxes, connectors, crimps & heat-shrink... :unsure:




2.5mm² solid twin & earth.
Wagos in a wago box then if you've already got them, read the instruction leaflet, it needs to be fixed and cable tied shut to be maintenence free....I think
 
Wagos in a wago box then if you've already got them, read the instruction leaflet, it needs to be fixed and cable tied shut to be maintenence free....I think

Fixing the box, I can understand as "good practice", even though junction boxes and cables under floors don't get pushed and pulled and kicked.

Ditto for clamping and fixing cables.

But what electromechanical purpose is served by cable tying the lid shut?
 
Fixing the box, I can understand as "good practice", even though junction boxes and cables under floors don't get pushed and pulled and kicked.

Ditto for clamping and fixing cables.

But what electromechanical purpose is served by cable tying the lid shut?
My guess is that the box keeps the levers closed, if its cable tied it can never accidentally open and release the levers.
 
Indeed.
There are, or have been, a few regulations down the decades requiring a tool to gain access.
 
My guess is that the box keeps the levers closed, if its cable tied it can never accidentally open and release the levers.

No.

1755001208681.png


Also, I've seen suggestions to people to use Wagos behind switches and sockets, so I'd hope that the levers stay closed on their own.
 

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