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New c u cable extension

I may be wrong, but I think that MK are one of the few makes that do?
My gut feeling is left is more prevalent these days but don't have any statistics.

EDIT: just done a quick google/images and looks like right have the edge but I didn't try to see what makes are shown.
 
My gut feeling is left is more prevalent these days but don't have any statistics. EDIT: just done a quick google/images and looks like right have the edge but I didn't try to see what makes are shown.
I did the same, and came to the conclusion that 'right' seemed to be a fairly clear winner.

For what it's worth, I've just looked at the CUs offered by TLC. Of the 7 brands they have, only two (MK and Crabtree) appear to have he main switch on the left.
 
I did the same, and came to the conclusion that 'right' seemed to be a fairly clear winner.
But then if more of the images are of MK and Crabtree products (I didn't check that) then is could easily sway the apparent vote.
For what it's worth, I've just looked at the CUs offered by TLC. Of the 7 brands they have, only two (MK and Crabtree) appear to have he main switch on the left.
OK
 
But then if more of the images are of MK and Crabtree products (I didn't check that) then is could easily sway the apparent vote.
Indeed - 'sway' them in the direction of giving a misleading/incorrect impression as to how many brands of CU have the main switch on the left.
 
Although I (and others, like EFLI) have been saying or implying that the 'polarity' of the switch does not matter, we had overlooked the fact that one side might be designed to make (and/or break) first. Does anyone know whether this is true of any CU 'Main Switches'?
Some of you might recall, a long time ago, I came to a "conclusion" that a particular DP switch (for an immersion heater) might have one side leading/lagging being perhaps one contributing cause of an RCD trip.
The problem only occored at switch off if I remember correctly. I am guessing now but it was likely an MK switch and had been in some years (probably the "old Logic Range type) and whether by design or wear and tear or a grain of grit/charred contacts might well have been one contributing factor to this problem.
Using standard test gear plus a multimeter etc I could notfind an answer to remedy the problem.
I replaced the switch with one of my own stock therefore differennt make (I have disliked MK for yonks) and hey presto the problem disappeared, so I concluded the possible reason. I had no oscilloscope to aid in verifying.
I even stripped the damn thing down afterwards to see if I could spot anything but it all looked OK.
I had to make this provisional conclusion as a possible, I hate a lack of a conclusion but had no other choice on this one.
 
just wanna know it'll see me out
It will
wife 10 yrs younger don't wanna leave her a legacy
Quite sure sure will just call a sparkie, tell him to sort it, and pay the bill. There will be no protracted internet-driven whataboutery


Gonna get new hob and oven too
New appliances do not automatically consume more power than old appliances
 
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Indeed - 'sway' them in the direction of giving a misleading/incorrect impression as to how many brands of CU have the main switch on the left.
No, as I didn't look at makes so it only sways in the direction how many left handers in use.
 

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