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New c u cable extension

I may be wrong, but I think that MK are one of the few makes that do?
My gut feeling is left is more prevalent these days but don't have any statistics.

EDIT: just done a quick google/images and looks like right have the edge but I didn't try to see what makes are shown.
 
My gut feeling is left is more prevalent these days but don't have any statistics. EDIT: just done a quick google/images and looks like right have the edge but I didn't try to see what makes are shown.
I did the same, and came to the conclusion that 'right' seemed to be a fairly clear winner.

For what it's worth, I've just looked at the CUs offered by TLC. Of the 7 brands they have, only two (MK and Crabtree) appear to have he main switch on the left.
 
I did the same, and came to the conclusion that 'right' seemed to be a fairly clear winner.
But then if more of the images are of MK and Crabtree products (I didn't check that) then is could easily sway the apparent vote.
For what it's worth, I've just looked at the CUs offered by TLC. Of the 7 brands they have, only two (MK and Crabtree) appear to have he main switch on the left.
OK
 
But then if more of the images are of MK and Crabtree products (I didn't check that) then is could easily sway the apparent vote.
Indeed - 'sway' them in the direction of giving a misleading/incorrect impression as to how many brands of CU have the main switch on the left.
 
Although I (and others, like EFLI) have been saying or implying that the 'polarity' of the switch does not matter, we had overlooked the fact that one side might be designed to make (and/or break) first. Does anyone know whether this is true of any CU 'Main Switches'?
Some of you might recall, a long time ago, I came to a "conclusion" that a particular DP switch (for an immersion heater) might have one side leading/lagging being perhaps one contributing cause of an RCD trip.
The problem only occored at switch off if I remember correctly. I am guessing now but it was likely an MK switch and had been in some years (probably the "old Logic Range type) and whether by design or wear and tear or a grain of grit/charred contacts might well have been one contributing factor to this problem.
Using standard test gear plus a multimeter etc I could notfind an answer to remedy the problem.
I replaced the switch with one of my own stock therefore differennt make (I have disliked MK for yonks) and hey presto the problem disappeared, so I concluded the possible reason. I had no oscilloscope to aid in verifying.
I even stripped the damn thing down afterwards to see if I could spot anything but it all looked OK.
I had to make this provisional conclusion as a possible, I hate a lack of a conclusion but had no other choice on this one.
 
just wanna know it'll see me out
It will
wife 10 yrs younger don't wanna leave her a legacy
Quite sure sure will just call a sparkie, tell him to sort it, and pay the bill. There will be no protracted internet-driven whataboutery


Gonna get new hob and oven too
New appliances do not automatically consume more power than old appliances
 
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Indeed - 'sway' them in the direction of giving a misleading/incorrect impression as to how many brands of CU have the main switch on the left.
No, as I didn't look at makes so it only sways in the direction how many left handers in use.
 
No, as I didn't look at makes so it only sways in the direction how many left handers in use.
Your "No" is wrong, since we are both correct.

As you say, looking at images on Google will presumably 'sway' things in the direction of "how many left handers are in use". Hence, if most CUs in use were MK or Crabtree ('left handers') one would expect Googles images to major on those two brands.

However, despite the fact that you correctly quoted what I had written, that is not what I was talking about. I was talking about the number of brands which had main switches on left (regardless of how many of which brand were 'in use') - and I have suggested that such brands probably represent only a fairly small proportion of the brands available..
 
Some of you might recall, a long time ago, I came to a "conclusion" that a particular DP switch (for an immersion heater) might have one side leading/lagging being perhaps one contributing cause of an RCD trip.
Yes, I recall that discussion, but I don't think that any of us had any good explanation (or even 'suggestion') as to how such switch behaviour (if present) could result in an RCD tripping.

Does anyone know, in general, whether (and, if so, which) any of the types of DP switches we generally use have a designed non-simultaneous making/breaking behaviour?
 
Some of you might recall, a long time ago, I came to a "conclusion" that a particular DP switch (for an immersion heater) might have one side leading/lagging being perhaps one contributing cause of an RCD trip.

I cannot see how lagging/leading might cause a trip, unless combined with some other fault on the immersion heater.

Possibly, the neutral breaking leading, combined with some leakage to earth, in the element, close to the neutral end of the element?
 
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