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Why?, id definitely do that at the same time.Yeah i wont be putting in any hard wired smoke alarms

Why?, id definitely do that at the same time.Yeah i wont be putting in any hard wired smoke alarms
Why?, id definitely do that at the same time.
Yeah i wont be putting in any hard wired smoke alarms or any out door sockets or lights also good point about the bathroom and kitchen extractor but i wouldn't feel the need for these to be on there own dedicated circuit these both could be ran on spur units from sockets or a spur break in the ring from the loft
Yeah i wont be putting in any hard wired smoke alarms

When I was rewiring council houses for the local board 1.5mm was specced, 1.0mm any other timeI was going to say why bother with ring final circuits? 20A radials should be ample.
In the 80s, 1.5 for lighting was oddly seen by many sparks as "manly". You were a wimp if you used 1 milli.
But particularly today, when most stuff is LED, you don't need 1.5 for lighting.
You can get terrific bargains in kit that is out of calibration or not the latest model.After your at a point of safely isolating the incoming supply carry on with the rewire, personally I'd get a multi function tester even if it's uncalibrated, it'll still perform all the main safety checks correctly you just won't be able to rely on it's results for disconnection times but you can work them out with a pen and paper the mft results are just to confirm your workings out, someone with calibrated kit can do that at a later date, the mft should still be reliable for ir testing and testing for shorts and connections, you can do them reasonably reliably with a normal multi meter.

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