As a matter of interest, I wonder what makes you say say that? For what it's worth, my first guess (albeit with 'no confidence') would probably have been AC.
Ac or dc electric strike?
- Thread starter Daljit
- Start date
I found it on their website, from the model number.
I’ve double checked readings at camera doorbell. Supply comes from video monitor and is almost 24v (see pic). However, when activated, the output from here is 2.4v (see pic). The strike - 3m cable run - also receives 2.4v, no drop.
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You are looking at possibly an amp. Has this ever worked?
See attached. I’ve emailed manufacturer to ask if the output voltage is also 24v.
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The strike will only have the correct voltage when you activate the door release …are you measuring the voltage when you activate the door open button on your monitor ? …also try it with the release disconnected it won’t be voltage drop on that cable at that distance ….more than likely you have burnt out the coil putting 24v dc into the lock release coil …
Yes, measuring when door release is activated.
The old release still works. It worked well with the old Yale lock on the door, and had done for last 4 mths. It just doesn’t work with the new high security ERA lock because the throw is too long.
I’m not convinced 24v is present when the door release is activated. Hopefully hear back from manufacturers soon tho.
In fact, I should measure voltage once release activated after disconnecting old strike to see if that makes a difference. Will try this tmrw.
Electric door strikes are inherently low security.
Using a 'high security' lock with one is meaningless.
What exactly are you intending to achieve here?
I was hoping to do away with the mortise lock, and rely solely on a robust nightlatch. Mainly because it would mean not having to carry keys which my children frequently forget.
Some rim releases state they can withhold a force of 750kg. Although I imagine a timber door and frame would give way well before that.
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