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I've looked back through the threads but haven't been able to find a clear solution. Installed in 2008 I have a Macdee concealed cistern (maybe a PNEU COMPACT II with a Kayla mechanism?) behind a slimline WC unit made by Utopia for Nabis. The WC unit is only 220mm deep and 500mm wide. I think...

I'm giving up on the usual arrangement of a sink set into a worktop, as the 2" strip of worktop at the back of the sink is constantly getting wet. (I do all the washing up in the sink, as there is no room for a dishwasher.) To replace this I plan to buy a Franke EPX 714 sink, either 1200mm...

Good morning, Since my previous post last night (which no one has read yet) I am realising I should like to make sure any replacement floorboards match the existing ones. The house was built in about 1930 and the boards are 4 1/2" wide. Some of them were originally the full width of the house...

At the moment I have boards which were sanded and treated with Sadolin PV67 20 years ago. The choice is whether to renovate the floorboards (there are lots of gaps, some rather wide, and split and otherwise damaged boards) and resand and use the Sadolin again or go down another route. Upstairs...

Hello, I have tried searching the archive and tried looking up stuff in the Building Regs, but with no luck. Please, does anyone know whether it is OK to cut into 7" deep joists (to run 2 22mm pipes across them) without reinforcing the floor? My installer yesterday did this. It looked as though...

I am thinking of replacing my inset sink with a sit-on one, because the laminate worktop round it keeps getting wet and the silicone seals fail and everything gets wet and mouldy. At the moment the washing machine is under the draining board and the sink bowl sits above a 600mm kitchen unit...

My current stainless steel sink with drainer is the standard type set into a worktop and I have endless problems with water getting into the worktop and down the wall. The worktop has been replaced once and has again rotted. Sealant replaced, but it keeps failing and so it goes on. The sink is...

I have just had an Armitage Shanks Idealcast bath professionally fitted. There is a shower over the bath. When I get in the bath I notice that it does move very slightly - and I thought that an Idealcast bath would be rock solid. When the old bath was taken out it was found that the edges of...

I've done a few forum searches and read the FAQ and it seems that generally no-one likes Ideal boilers, with the exception of the Classic. Is the Classic still a safe option, in terms of reliability, please? (I know specifications may change from year to year.) Thank you.

At 5 o'clock this morning my son blocked the waste trap from the bath with beads. I can't get them out. The trap is very narrow, made of lead and is 75 years old, so I guess if anyone tried to disconnect it it would crack. There is not enough room under the bath for a modern plastic trap. Is...

I posted this under building, but I reckoned plumbers were more likely to know the answer: //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=126983 I already asked Ideal Standard and Utopia about this but they refused to answer (covering their backs) and Utoopia refused to comment even when I...

A new wc is being fitted soon - the back to the wall : pan will be fitted to a reduced depth unit by Ideal Standard or Utopia, the cistern being concealed in the unit. My question is, if the unit is fitted into a corner, how wide a unit is needed to give enough leg room when sitting on the loo...

I have had these more than 10 years now, and the only problem has been the thermostatic cartridge which was replaced a few years ago. I have recently found out that the pipework from the pump should be 22mm but is in fact only 15mm. Since the shower's worked perfectly well for all this time, I...

My bathroom (about 1.9m square) is being refitted and tiled to full height professionally. I'm using Johnson's Prismatics tiles (150mm square) because they make curved edge tiles and the window reveal and windowsill behind the washbasin will be tiled and I don't want to look at an edging strip...

It looks as though I'm either having a conventional boiler (Ideal) fitted by the front door or a Vaillant combi in the attic. This is to replace the old back boiler. I haven't had the quote yet, but although I'd prefer the boiler to be in the loft, I expect it will cost an awful lot more (£2K?)...

Warm Front have said I can have a new boiler with a grant but I've been reading this forum and it seems they may well put in an unreliable boiler (not-so Ideal). Now I should like to get my gas bills down - my boiler isn't even included in the energy efficiency tables it's so old, I guess no...