2 13 amp ovens, does this setup seem right?

[kelchashock]

Turns out what I thought was a isolation switch is intact a fcu with a 13 amp fuse and switch. What he has done is taken the cable from the fcu that went to the old oven and attached a dual socket to it.

Ah, that's a bit different from what we thought, and it casts some doubt on whether the electrician was being sensible. You now have 2 ovens, with a total potential load of about 19.2A running off the one 13A fuse in the FCU (the 'fuse and switch' you mention). Theoretically, that is just about OK, since if one applies 'diversity', one is allowed to consider a total cooking appliance load of 19.2A as representing only 12.76A (i.e. fractionally below 13A). However, particularly given that there will be a 13A fuse in the plug for each oven, that additional ('common') 13A fuse it totally unnecessary, and could possible result in problems (occasionally 'blowing'). If you're sticking with the plugs/sockets, the sensible thing would probably be to change that FCU to an (unfused) (probably 40A) switch or, if a switch is not required (i.e. if both socket switches were accessible), just an appropriate junction box.

Kind Regards, John

Thanks John. Yes I thought it was strange to have so many fuses. Would this work - connect the oven and hob to the circuit intended for just the hob as this has a isolation switch already at 40a and then convert the socket to a oven connection for just the one, that way the existing fcu with the 13amp will just have one oven wired.

 

[JohnW2]

Thanks John. Yes I thought it was strange to have so many fuses. Would this work - connect the oven and hob to the circuit intended for just the hob as this has a isolation switch already at 40a and then convert the socket to a oven connection for just the one, that way the existing fcu with the 13amp will just have one oven wired.

You could consider something like that, but I'm not sure that I see the point. As I said, just getting rid of that unnecessary FCU (feeding the oven sockets) would probably be simpler.

I also see that your diagram indicates that the ovens are each 2.6 kW (not 2.3 kW as you initially mentioned). If that's true, then the total load of the two ovens would be above 13A even after applying diversity - underlining that the present set-up is not really acceptable.

Kind Regards, John

 

[kelchashock]

You could consider something like that, but I'm not sure that I see the point. As I said, just getting rid of that unnecessary FCU (feeding the oven sockets) would probably be simpler.

I also see that your diagram indicates that the ovens are each 2.6 kW (not 2.3 kW as you initially mentioned). If that's true, then the total load of the two ovens would be above 13A even after applying diversity - underlining that the present set-up is not really acceptable.

Kind Regards, John

Apologies all for the misinformation, 2.6kw is correct, not sure where I saw 2.3.

If this is the case, what would be the way to resolve this as you state that 13 amp socket is no longer acceptable. Would I therefore just use a 40 amp cooker switch wired to a cooker connector, would I need 2 then?

 

[JohnW2]

Apologies all for the misinformation, 2.6kw is correct, not sure where I saw 2.3. ... If this is the case, what would be the way to resolve this as you state that 13 amp socket is no longer acceptable. Would I therefore just use a 40 amp cooker switch wired to a cooker connector, would I need 2 then?

Apologies from me, too - since it sounds as if I was not clear enough.

Each of the 2.6 kW ovens only represents a maximum of about 10.8A, so no problem for a ("13A") plug/socket connection for them (separately), per se. What I was referring to was that the two ovens together would be about 21.6A maximum (which translates to about 13.5A after application of 'diversity') - hence having (as you currently do) a 13A fuse common to both the ovens is not really right.

You will have seen differences of opinion here as to what actually is the 'maximum current rating of a double 13A socket - 13A, 26A or ~20A. Because of that, some would probably say that you should not have two 2.6 kW ovens plugged into the same double socket - but even they would be happy if you changed the double socket to two single sockets side-by-side (and got rid of the 13A fuse feeding the two sockets).

As has been said, after undertaking appropriate tests (which you would not be able to do), an electrician might well just 'hard wire' both ovens (i.e. without plugs/sockets) to the existing supply, with no intervening fuses).

Kind Regards, John

 

[securespark]

It seems daft for the spark to put 13A fuses in line with each other. Thus there is no discrimination between them.

 

[JohnW2]

It seems daft for the spark to put 13A fuses in line with each other. Thus there is no discrimination between them.

Indeed - I suspect probably due to a lazy (or maybe 'unthinking') electrician. From what we've been told (including recent corrections), it seems that the circuit previously served one oven, hard-wired via a 13A FCU - which is fair enough. It seems that, rather than bother to get rid of the FCU, the electrician just fed the socket(s) for the two new ovens (the plugs of which will obviously have 13A fuses) from that existing FCU.

Kind Regards, John

 

[kelchashock]

It seems daft for the spark to put 13A fuses in line with each other. Thus there is no discrimination between them.

Indeed - I suspect probably due to a lazy (or maybe 'unthinking') electrician. From what we've been told (including recent corrections), it seems that the circuit previously served one oven, hard-wired via a 13A FCU - which is fair enough. It seems that, rather than bother to get rid of the FCU, the electrician just fed the socket(s) for the two new ovens (the plugs of which will obviously have 13A fuses) from that existing FCU.

Kind Regards, John

Thanks.. I will be speaking to the electrician regarding this. Hoping he will be able to resolve this for me ( I know i have been wrong about the power rating but the electrician had a look at the appliances himself)

If i wanted to do it myself instead of waiting for the electrician to free up time to change it all, will this setup work?

Untitled

• kelchashock
• 10 May 2014
• 1

Changes include a 40a switch now connecting to 1 oven at 2.6kw

Induction hob at 6kw and 1 oven at 2.6kw running off the same connector?

I guess i could have the 2 ovens from the 40a switch, its just for ease of connection really ( 1 oven each side of the hob, dont ask, the wife designed it)

 

[JohnW2]

Thanks.. I will be speaking to the electrician regarding this. Hoping he will be able to resolve this for me ( I know i have been wrong about the power rating but the electrician had a look at the appliances himself) ... If i wanted to do it myself instead of waiting for the electrician to free up time to change it all, will this setup work? .......... Changes include a 40a switch now connecting to 1 oven at 2.6kw .... Induction hob at 6kw and 1 oven at 2.6kw running off the same connector?

Yes, that would work, and would be fine (but see ** below) but ....

I guess i could have the 2 ovens from the 40a switch, its just for ease of connection really ( 1 oven each side of the hob, dont ask, the wife designed it)

... 'if all other things were equal', I would probably be inclined to take that approach, not the least because it 'balances' the loads better across the two circuits. However, your bit in brackets may indicate that there are practical/convenience issues which may favour the other approach.

** with either of these approaches (not using plugs with fuses or any other fuses for the individual appliances, you really ought to get an electrician involved to conform, by tests, that the flexes of the ovens had adequate 'fault protection' from the breakers (since they were not being protected by local fuses).

Kind Regards, John

 

[kelchashock]

Thanks.. I will be speaking to the electrician regarding this. Hoping he will be able to resolve this for me ( I know i have been wrong about the power rating but the electrician had a look at the appliances himself) ... If i wanted to do it myself instead of waiting for the electrician to free up time to change it all, will this setup work? .......... Changes include a 40a switch now connecting to 1 oven at 2.6kw .... Induction hob at 6kw and 1 oven at 2.6kw running off the same connector?

Yes, that would work, and would be fine (but see ** below) but ....

I guess i could have the 2 ovens from the 40a switch, its just for ease of connection really ( 1 oven each side of the hob, dont ask, the wife designed it)

... 'if all other things were equal', I would probably be inclined to take that approach, not the least because it 'balances' the loads better across the two circuits. However, your bit in brackets may indicate that there are practical/convenience issues which may favour the other approach.

** with either of these approaches (not using plugs with fuses or any other fuses for the individual appliances, you really ought to get an electrician involved to conform, by tests, that the flexes of the ovens had adequate 'fault protection' from the breakers (since they were not being protected by local fuses).

Kind Regards, John

Thanks John. Will get the electrician to assess. I think 3 pages is long enough for this forum. Thanks for all the advice. Now off to the plumbing section.

 

[JohnW2]

Thanks John. Will get the electrician to assess. I think 3 pages is long enough for this forum.

You haven't lived

Thanks for all the advice. Now off to the plumbing section.

Oh dear - that could be regarded as almost treason

Kind Regards, John