2 different ventilation options
- Thread starter HawkEye244
- Start date
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So far can't see anything that needs consent for a vent. I'll have a look at the road first before deciding.
So I phoned xpelair technical support and got quoted the GX9 and WX9, both of these are 50db at 3metres, so that's way too noisy for a living/kitchen area.
I honestly don't know what to do now. Unless I massively undersize the fan and buy that one in toolstation, it might end up having no effect whatsoever.
I honestly don't know what to do now. Unless I massively undersize the fan and buy that one in toolstation, it might end up having no effect whatsoever.
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you say there is a proximity of a socket. I assume you may want your fan higher than said socket, just beware that cables will probably drop to socket from above.
It's not simple because the fan needs wiring up. I can't put a 3 pin on it and plug it in like I was hoping and everything is closed up.
It's not the smells it's that basically when the tenant is in there cooking etc, the moist air isn't being taken out. Trickles are in the windows but I suspect he may be closing them to keep the heat in which is not acceptable. That is what they are there for. If the trickles are open 24/7 as they should be I'm going to offer one of the walls be thermalined. The external wall has not been insulated on that floor so perhaps it's time. I think this is a reasonable compromise so long as he keeps the trickles open permanently. Basically the issue is that every few weeks a bit of mold forms on skirting at the corner or the room near the door. Unbeknownst to me he's been using a dehumidifier which hasn't achieved much. He's trying to save money by turning the heating off during the day. I think if I put a fan in it would be too noisy and he wouldn't end up using it. So the thermaline compromise is what I'm going with as the first option. Then we can talk about fans. In fairness his bedroom area is insulted on 4 walls and is lovely and warm but that cold wall in the kitchen needs addressing.
It's not the smells it's that basically when the tenant is in there cooking etc, the moist air isn't being taken out. Trickles are in the windows but I suspect he may be closing them to keep the heat in which is not acceptable. That is what they are there for. If the trickles are open 24/7 as they should be I'm going to offer one of the walls be thermalined. The external wall has not been insulated on that floor so perhaps it's time. I think this is a reasonable compromise so long as he keeps the trickles open permanently. Basically the issue is that every few weeks a bit of mold forms on skirting at the corner or the room near the door. Unbeknownst to me he's been using a dehumidifier which hasn't achieved much. He's trying to save money by turning the heating off during the day. I think if I put a fan in it would be too noisy and he wouldn't end up using it. So the thermaline compromise is what I'm going with as the first option. Then we can talk about fans. In fairness his bedroom area is insulted on 4 walls and is lovely and warm but that cold wall in the kitchen needs addressing.
You need an extractor hood over the cooker to specifically remove that moist air at source, not a general extractor in the wall somewhere else.
I know it does have one except it ventilates into the room for a start and there's no realistic way of hooking it up to outside.
It won't move enough moisture on it's own. The issue is with the flat itself (basement flat not tanked).
It won't move enough moisture on it's own. The issue is with the flat itself (basement flat not tanked).
Why is it not acceptable?
Why do you think they fit closers on trickle vents?
I think you need to reconsider that option; it may seem unrealistic but maybe with some lateral thinking....
Well look at it this way - I could rig up ducting to outside running it along the ceiling from the fan but it only works for as long as it's on. The point is the humidity in the flat is high because it's a basement, cooking just adds to it. I'm not ruling it out, but first I want to make sure he isn't closing the trickles, because if he is that's the problem. The trickles should be doing the majority of the work, they were sized for the size and use of the room.
Keep in mind the current hood does take in and re-circulate dry air, it's not completely useless.
Because had I wanted them to be closed I wouldn't have bothered to retro-fit them.
I don't know about you but where I live all the trickle vents are open 24/7 365 days a week, there should be no need to shut them. Heat loss is not a reason. The point is to circulate air, with them closed you get no air circulation.
Recirculating cooker hoods do not remove any moisture. They only remove smells and grease.
Whatever. The point is what good is extracting the cooker hood going to achieve on a long term basis? It works for as long as it's on, in the same way trickle vents work as long as they're open.
Say the fan is on 30minutes a day. So what if it's extracted into the room or extracted outside?
Do that. When people ask here about dampness, the three questions are always "Do you have a kitchen extractor? Do you have a bathroom extractor? How do you dry clothes?". Fix those and if there is still a problem then investigate more.
I don't think you've proved that. Do you see evidence of penetrating damp coming through the walls? More likely, being a basement means that the walls are cold, resulting in condensation, and possibly that the outside air (which is exchanged via the trickle vents and other "leaks") is relatively cold and moist.
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