2 way pull switch wiring - and mounting.

[parishilton1]

The pull switch failed in our downstairs bathroom that switches the light and extraction fan on and off. The original is a 2 way, but L2 is just an empty space. I bought a replacement crabtree 2way, which came with a variety of helpful wiring diagrams. Nothing like the original though. Com wired with neutral and two live wires on L1 (earth not shown in picture). Is there any reason not to wire the replacement like this?

When I removed the old one I was treated to a face full of lath and plaster and there's not a great deal left to achor the new switch to. I have put in some filler, but would appreciate suggestions for a plan B. I'm not convinced the filler will be strong enough to withstand the kids yanking on the pull chord.

Thought this was going to be realitively straightforward. Not sure why?!

Many thanks in advance.

 

[EFLImpudence]

The pull switch failed in our downstairs bathroom that switches the light and extraction fan on and off. The original is a 2 way, but L2 is just an empty space. I bought a replacement crabtree 2way, which came with a variety of helpful wiring diagrams. Nothing like the original though. Com wired with neutral and two live wires on L1 (earth not shown in picture). Is there any reason not to wire the replacement like this?

It's not a Neutral and that is how it is wired and it works.

When I removed the old one I was treated to a face full of lath and plaster and there's not a great deal left to achor the new switch to. I have put in some filler, but would appreciate suggestions for a plan B. I'm not convinced the filler will be strong enough to withstand the kids yanking on the pull chord.

Can you insert and glue some pieces of wood for the screws and then fill ?

Thought this was going to be realitively straightforward. Not sure why?!

That's life.

 

[securespark]

L2 is not used when it's only switched 1 way.

As for the broken laths, try and insert a short piece of timber through the hole at 90 degrees to the laths. Fox the new piece with at least 2 screws. Attach the switch pattress to this new piece of wood.

 

[Bigily87]

Try using some silicone it wont come off.

 

[Bigily87]

View attachment 312767

+ I take that your using a class ll light fitting as you've got no CPC.

 

[sparkwright]

+ I take that your using a class ll light fitting as you've got no CPC.

What makes you think there is no cpc?

Silicone? What's that's for?

 

[JohnW2]

+ I take that your using a class ll light fitting as you've got no CPC.

He probably has got a CPC, since he wrote ...

.... (earth not shown in picture).....

One wouldn't expect to see the CPC in the picture, since it only shows the switch, and there's nowhere on the switch that a CPC could be attached to.

Kind Regards, John

 

[JohnW2]

What makes you think there is no cpc?

Quite.

Silicone? What's that's for?

I fear that it's probably being suggested that the switch could be be stuck to the ceiling with silicone

Kind Regards, John

 

[sparkwright]

Quite.

I fear that it's probably being suggested that the switch could be be stuck to the ceiling with silicone

Kind Regards, John

Who on earth sticks electrical fittings to surfaces?

 

[sparkwright]

If you have access above the ceiling, you may be able to fix a wooden noggin between two joists, and screw the pull switch from below into that

 

[JohnW2]

Who on earth sticks electrical fittings to surfaces?

I wouldn't have thought that anyone would (should) - but maybe we've found an exception to that rule

Kind Regards, John

 

[parishilton1]

Thanks to eveyone for the suggestions and to EFLImpudence for clarifying that it being a black wire doesn't necessarily mean it's neutral. I'm learning a lot on this site. There is a ground in the other part of the fixture. Will replicate the original wiring and see how the plaster and rawl plugs hold up. It's at an awkward junction in an awkward old building. I would probably need to take up the floorboards upstairs to anchor it properly from above. Maybe a PIR ceiling switch would an easier option in the future?

​

 

[opps]

Try using some silicone it wont come off.

For the love of Mike, never use silicone on plaster to mechanically hold fittings to ceilings.

 

[opps]

Thanks to eveyone for the suggestions and to EFLImpudence for clarifying that it being a black wire doesn't necessarily mean it's neutral. I'm learning a lot on this site. There is a ground in the other part of the fixture. Will replicate the original wiring and see how the plaster and rawl plugs hold up. It's at an awkward junction in an awkward old building. I would probably need to take up the floorboards upstairs to anchor it properly from above. Maybe a PIR ceiling switch would an easier option in the future?

​

I learn much from this site.

PIR sensors are fine but do have limitations. If you have had a really good curry, you need to wave at the sensor from time to time to tigger it whilst you are sitting on the loo- yeah, not a big deal though.

My upstairs bathroom has TapTile (no longer available), you lightly touch the tile with the sensor behind it, the light turns on. At 2AM I don't want the light on, local ambient street lighting is sufficient.

My downstairs loo has a PIR sensor, to be honest, unless someone is sleeping on the sofa bed in the lounge it isn't a issue though. A bigger issue is the massive extractor fan that has a PIR.

If you do go for a PIR , the unit will have mouse trap type clips to secure it- just drill fitting the hole to the required size.