24 Dec - update - Grundfos pump still runs constantly

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Please don't let him sort it out without an explanation of what the fault is.
Hi Picasso. I want a full explanation of what the fault is - it’s quite clearly not the components - but a darn wiring live feed fault somewhere. Surely 4 Drayton actuators can’t be faulty? They’re only lasting 48 hours before the fault starts again. If electric wasn’t so damn dangerous, I’d have a dabble myself. I’ve learnt so much about S plan heating systems over the past few weeks, I swear I would now qualify as a BG apprentice. ...
 
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Hi Shambolic, thank you for your post - for both the new room stat and new programmer, BG literally ‘snapped’ off the front faces and snapped the new ones onto the existing back plates - no wiring was touched (replaced with exactly the same models)
So they just swapped the components without bothering to check if the wiring was correct????!!!!
 
Got to admit I have not read through the 6 pages of posts but one possible fault is when using two valve set ups it is essential the feed to the micro switch is a permanent live. People do try using a feed from the switched live to save running an extra wire.
This results in both valves working ok seperatly but when both are on and one closes it can keep the other on. Cutting all power and turning on will clear the fault till the next time the same condition arises worth a look!(y)
 
Got to admit I have not read through the 6 pages of posts but one possible fault is when using two valve set ups it is essential the feed to the micro switch is a permanent live. People do try using a feed from the switched live to save running an extra wire.
This results in both valves working ok seperatly but when both are on and one closes it can keep the other on. Cutting all power and turning on will clear the fault till the next time the same condition arises worth a
Strange one.
If wiring issue, why would it be ok for a day or two before faulting?
Strange one.
If wiring issue, why would it be ok for a day or two before faulting?
Yes - that’s what I can’t get my head around? It runs perfectly for a couple of days and then resorts back to the original fault
 
If wiring issue, why would it be ok for a day or two before faulting?

If it is a lock up condotop due to mis-wired valve actuators it may only lock up when the micro switch in valve A operates before the micro switch in valve B operates. and not lock up if the micro switch in valve B operates before micro switch in valve A.

Timer . thermostats and rotation speed of the valves will affect which valve is the first to operates its micro switch.
 
Reading through this thread, the time has now come to step back and start again, lots of kit has been changed to no avail in the hope of fixing this problem. Someone needs to take a look at this system and start from scratch, checking wiring is correct and the individual components that make up the system all work as they should. It will be something silly
 
Why does it only happe
Reading through this thread, the time has now come to step back and start again, lots of kit has been changed to no avail in the hope of fixing this problem. Someone needs to take a look at this system and start from scratch, checking wiring is correct and the individual components that make up the system all work as they should. It will be something silly
I agree with you 110%. I can’t wait to find out what the fault is and share it with you all.
 
If it is a lock up condotop due to mis-wired valve actuators it may only lock up when the micro switch in valve A operates before the micro switch in valve B operates. and not lock up if the micro switch in valve B operates before micro switch in valve A.

Timer . thermostats and rotation speed of the valves will affect which valve is the first to operates its micro switch.
Pretty well sums it up, on a personal note I would not mix different makes of valve on the same system from choice.
 
As I recall the switch is permanent live grey wire into the switch and orange out to boiler, when the system is off at the programmer or stat the grey wire should always be live.
Trouble is when so many people have fiddled with it goodness knows what they have done, it only needs one wire wrong or loose to screw everything up.
When I had jobs like that I simply ripped all the wires out of the box and wired it from scratch.;)
Quicker in the long run(y)
 
Hi Shambolic, thank you for your post - for both the new room stat and new programmer, BG literally ‘snapped’ off the front faces and snapped the new ones onto the existing back plates - no wiring was touched (replaced with exactly the same models)
I’m on about when they rewired the actuators.
 

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