40mm void at rear of sink base unit - seriously? WTF!

[Hot&Cold]

I've been looking online at a new sink base unit that's listed as having a 40mm void to it's rear? Is it 40mm,

Plenty of choice online source a product that suits your existing installation,or get a competent installer to supply & fit the unit

 

[Notch7]

yes,but a 40mm void is good for not much when considering waste pipes.

Some units have 65mm void.

Personally I would still take out the back and refit after -making the rear accessible makes for much easier alteration afterwards.

You dont even need a full height back.......

Whats really annoying is taking out an old kitchen where the base units went in before the plumbing

 

[paulrockliffe]

Or trying to replace a tap that was fitted to the sink which was fitted to the work bench which was fitted after the cabinets and before the upstand, so there's no access to anything and the pipes are too close to get a pipe cutter on them. So a new tap means grinding the existing copper, taking the kitchen to bits, replacing the sink because the seal can't be cut at the back and it's thin steel that so ends up bent. That one ended up with an epoxy repair to the tap pin-hole leak, but it's going to be a pain at some point.

 

[just pumps]

I've been looking online at a new sink base unit that's listed as having a 40mm void to it's rear? Is it 40mm, or is it actually larger in order to accommodate the compression connections etc? My existing sink waste pipe is slightly over 40mm anyway, with the various connectors being significantly bigger. I don't see how a new sink base with a 40mm void will marry up without some invasive surgery to the unit.

Is the 40mm void measurement only a nominal size that actually means it will be large enough to accommodate compression connectors that accompany a 40mm waste pipe? If so what size would the void actually be?

I have an unused gas valve on another kitchen wall that is 75mm proud of the wall, I'd quite like a base unit in front of it without chewing too much (any) of the base unit off to fit in front of it.

Thanks,

Dain

Sounds like your first attempt at kitchens,

 

[just pumps]

I will just cut it off and cap it. Much easier.

You will or you will have somebody do it?

 

[Draughtsman]

You will or you will have somebody do it?

Much as flashing a copper joint, correctly prepped and purged beforehand would be easy, obviously I wouldn't do it myself. That would be illegal.

 

[Draughtsman]

Sounds like your first attempt at kitchens,

Not quite, but there isn't much difference betweView attachment 158185 en reworking a kitchen every 25 years and never having done one.

If I just get a base that isn't the full 600 deep, then I won't have to savage it to accommodate the copper or washing machine waste, which can just be altered slightly. The base won't have end panels or kicker, the legs will be changed to 6" brushed stainless. The left/drainer end will screw to the corner of the soil box-out, I might have to bracket the right hand end of the base off the wall. Then float a short length of worktop over the washing machine.

 

[Draughtsman]

Some units have 65mm void.

Personally I would still take out the back and refit after -making the rear accessible makes for much easier alteration afterwards.

You dont even need a full height back.......

Whats really annoying is taking out an old kitchen where the base units went in before the plumbing

I really dislike tbe idea of fixity in most things, a quicker job but mucho jobs for the boys down the line.

 

[Draughtsman]

Tiny galley kitchen, will put a 500 wide base with a 1500 beech worktop in once that

gas valve is removed.

 

[Draughtsman]

Plenty of choice online source a product that suits your existing installation,or get a competent installer to supply & fit the unit

There is no existing, at all.

I've been a welder and a draughtsman, I can fit a beech worktop on a base, and fit a sink. Flashing a copper joint is a doddle. Familiarity with current products is my real issue.

 

[Ian H]

I’d stick with the normal sized unit and make a neat job of the pipes inside the unit then it’s all accessible.

Ours in all inside, it’s quite busy but still very useable.

 

[Notch7]

There is no existing, at all.

I've been a welder and a draughtsman, I can fit a beech worktop on a base, and fit a sink. Flashing a copper joint is a doddle. Familiarity with current products is my real issue.

I wonder if you are over thinking it -cutting down a unit is no big shakes. If you can do the above, then cutting down a unit isnt that hard.

 

[Draughtsman]

I wonder if you are over thinking it -cutting down a unit is no big shakes. If you can do the above, then cutting down a unit isnt that hard.

I guess I'm just surprised that the kit format system is still what it is, with not even a variable void size. I do have a healthy tendency to not just accept 'the way that it is'.

 

[Draughtsman]

I tthink that I need a sit-on sink on an old style 1000 sink base unit, old style, no plinth/legs/end panels etc.

Is this type of base unit still available? Sit-on sink/drainer tops are available, but carcass bases with all the modular add-ons won't really suit my kitchen.

 

[Draughtsman]

Or maybe I just put a sink base carcass in on 6" brushed nickel legs.