No problem with that - if the car was newer the fully synth oil would be specified anyway. It'll be a little more expensive though, and keep an eye on the oil consumption as the new oil is thinner.
John
John
5w30 for 2007 Ford KA 1.3i
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I was always under the belief that there is one pressure relief valve that allows oil to return back into the sump when the pressure gets too high, as will happen as engine speed increases (I have seen oil filters explode when this has become stuck) PLUS a bypass valve that allows unfiltered oil to circulate the engine if the filter should ever become clogged on the basis that unfiltered oil is better than no oil going around the engine. So, two valves - pressure relief and bypass.
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I got the thought from a VW forum where I read that a 5w30 is better than 5w40 for a VW PD engine - better wear protection apparently.
I presumed the same theory would apply to any engine.
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Apparently 507.00 (5w30) superseded 505.01 (5w40).
507.00 gives better wear protection than 505.01.
Millers Oil quotes 10w40 for a 2002 8v Punto.
Technolube quotes 5w30 for it.
Strange!
507.00 gives better wear protection than 505.01.
Millers Oil quotes 10w40 for a 2002 8v Punto.
Technolube quotes 5w30 for it.
Strange!
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That's why I considered 5w30.
For worn bearings with slightly more clearance however, the 10w40 or 5w40 perhaps, would fill the gap better at working temp.
Typically 10/40 was a semi or part synthetic oil, whereas 5/30 has always been fully synthetic. 10/40 fully synthetic does exist but its original development was geared towards motorbike engines.....the air cooled variety of which ran much hotter than usual and therefore needed greater protection. The extreme 'slippiness' of such an oil gave problems with a wet clutch system so additives were added (!) to accommodate this. As for general car use the only real advantage of the thin oil is to give maximum protection on a cold start up, with the over head camshaft particularly prone to oil related issues as it was the last part in the line to receive the oil.
As the PD engine uses another cam lobe to operate its injectors - and the shear forces are very high when you look at the cam profile - we can see why the thinner oil makes sense.
John
As the PD engine uses another cam lobe to operate its injectors - and the shear forces are very high when you look at the cam profile - we can see why the thinner oil makes sense.
John
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I've got the service kit for the KA ordered.
Granville 5w30 Hyperlube (Ford specific)
Mintex front pads and discs
Mann brand oil and fuel filters.
A tube of Ceretec grease
A 100mm wire wheel brush.
Granville 5w30 Hyperlube (Ford specific)
Mintex front pads and discs
Mann brand oil and fuel filters.
A tube of Ceretec grease
A 100mm wire wheel brush.
Check underneath for rust before you start. Old Ka's rot with a vengeance. It may not be worth servicing....
Why does thinner oil give more protection on a VW PD engine? I always thought the thicker the oil, the more protection, hence why axle oil was so thick. I'm interested as my car runs on 0w20 oil which must be like water.
Why does thinner oil give more protection on a VW PD engine? I always thought the thicker the oil, the more protection, hence why axle oil was so thick. I'm interested as my car runs on 0w20 oil which must be like water.
It's the time taken for the oil to get to where it's needed.....the thinner the oil, the quicker it gets there.
John
John
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Logic tells me that the slightly thinner oil can get where the slightly thicker oil can't.
As a rough comparison, water vs golden syrup. How long would a modern engine last running with 20w50?
The pump, I presume, provides the pressure to keep the required film of oil between the surfaces.
By the way the wire brush is to clean the bits and bobs of the brake assemblies. I like to have all the bolts shining when I reassemble.
There is some body rust around the petrol cap and tail gate window bottom, near the wiper. The cars going into a body shop for that. Its local solo fellow with a very good rep.
As a rough comparison, water vs golden syrup. How long would a modern engine last running with 20w50?
The pump, I presume, provides the pressure to keep the required film of oil between the surfaces.
By the way the wire brush is to clean the bits and bobs of the brake assemblies. I like to have all the bolts shining when I reassemble.
There is some body rust around the petrol cap and tail gate window bottom, near the wiper. The cars going into a body shop for that. Its local solo fellow with a very good rep.
At least Ford tend to use caliper bleed nipples which are a decent size for once......see if you can crack them open, even if you don't want to change the fluid. Plaster some grease over the nipple afterwards!
John
John
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Over time, I replace all the brake fluid by default.
When I push the caliper pistons back to fit new pads, I bleed the fluid off into a jar rather than push it back to the master. I wrecked a master doing that once (flipped the rubbers) and have never done it since although it used to be common practice I believe.
Noted about the nipples, thanks John!
Hopefully the dust covers aren't missing.
Dot4 I presume for a Ford KA?
When I push the caliper pistons back to fit new pads, I bleed the fluid off into a jar rather than push it back to the master. I wrecked a master doing that once (flipped the rubbers) and have never done it since although it used to be common practice I believe.
Noted about the nipples, thanks John!
Hopefully the dust covers aren't missing.
Dot4 I presume for a Ford KA?
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