AA Smart Breakdown

Joined
7 Sep 2008
Messages
579
Reaction score
21
Location
Kent
Country
United Kingdom
I received a phone call from the AA today asking if my Smart Breakdown app had flashed up a notification about my battery. In the summer I joined this scheme and fitted the device to my car's diagnostic port, paired it with the app on my phone and had no issues since. After the call I checked the app and it said that my battery was critically low so I ran the engine for a bit and it went to 'fully charged'. The car had not been used for a week or so before this. I realise that the app had communicated the info. to the AA and they had rung to warn me. (I had notifications set at 'off' on my mobile and had not checked the app for many weeks.) Is it possible that the sender in the car is always live (even with the ignition off) and can drain the battery if the car is left unused for a while? Obviously, something is powering it in order to use the public wifi system to send messages to the AA.
 
Sponsored Links
Yes, there is always a permanent live feed at the diagnostic socket even with the ignition off.
 
Thanks Mottie. The chap from the AA who rang me was keen to stress that I should try to start the car before contacting them and I got the impression that these app warnings were happening a lot. My analysis is that the sender is draining the battery when the car isn't used for a while and they're suddenly getting callouts due to alarming app warnings. This is the first time that the car has been unused for over a week. So is the system flawed or am I overreacting? I was very impressed to be contacted on a Sunday and I like Smart Breakdown in principle but if there is a problem with parasitic drain we need to know. Or do I need a new battery?
 
Take it to a garage / halfords and get them to perform a proper drain/load test on it. Its possible the battery is on its way out. Today is battery day I think as millions go to start their cars after the winter break (although less now with covid I guess?).
The smart device will draw very little power from your battery....
 
Sponsored Links
If you have a new battery - Go for the largest (highest capacity) one that you can afford. more drain and low temperatures will impair the cars starting abilities.
 
"A week or so" is not long. If the car won't start after such a short time, give it a charge (it can take quite a long time, I have a 100AH battery and a 6A charger) and if it happens again, IME it's not worth giving it another chance.

I find a good Varta Silver battery lasts ten years if not neglected.

Running the engine for a short period during layup is not good for the engine and exhaust. If not run long enough to get fully hot, you create corrosive and acidic damp. In winter the battery is more likely to run down because you will be using headlights, fan, heated windows, maybe heated seats and mirrors, and the battery is less efficient when very cold.
 
JohnD - the car does start OK even when I get the message on the app, so this morning I went out for a spin (dual carriageways mainly) and did my supermarket shop for the week. Round trip about 30 miles with just the lights on. The app is now reporting 'fully charged' so let's see if that changes over the next few days, when the car won't be used. If the app continues to report an issue I'll get a new battery. Thanks for all the helpful replies, by the way.
 
Well, the app reported 'Battery Critical' the next day, so I contacted the AA and they sent a very helpful chap. He changed the battery after doing some checks and all is well.
He had trouble finding an AGM battery and had to ring around before going to collect it. My car doesn't have the stop-start facility (where the engine cuts out at lights etc.) and he said that those batteries are usually used in such vehicles. Mine is a 2015 Corsa Excite automatic. I was charged £250 in total - I'm not griping as I'm quite satisfied with the service as it was all done in my drive. He was actually involved with my car for over 2 hours (including getting the battery). Sorry to ramble on but one thing did intrigue me; he said that the AGM couldn't be swapped for a conventional one as he wasn't allowed to do that. Why would that be?
 
Sorry to ramble on but one thing did intrigue me; he said that the AGM couldn't be swapped for a conventional one as he wasn't allowed to do that. Why would that be?
Sounds like cobblers to me. Okay, if you had stop start and an AGM you wouldn’t swap it for the incorrect type of battery but at some time it sounds like someone has fitted a battery better than that car needs. He should have just fitted the correct battery for your car.
 
Sounds like cobblers to me. Okay, if you had stop start and an AGM you wouldn’t swap it for the incorrect type of battery but at some time it sounds like someone has fitted a battery better than that car needs. He should have just fitted the correct battery for your car.
Agreed. I have an old Mondeo 2 litre petrol, and a couple of years ago I drove about a mile, when I came back to the car the locks opened normally but it wouldn't offer to turn over. Never had a battery fail suddenly and completely before so assumed it was something electronic (had a few issues there, but that's another story). Called the AA, he used a slave battery and to my surprise it started no problem. He told me it was the wrong battery - too small, as it didn't fill the battery space and tried to sell me a bigger one. I was sceptical as there are 3 litre petrol and diesel models and the battery bay doesn't change. I bought an Exide same size as the original and it's been fine.
 
If you have a new battery - Go for the largest (highest capacity) one that you can afford. more drain and low temperatures will impair the cars starting abilities.

I've often read/heard this advice, but is it possible to fit a higher AH (or CCA) rated battery than the car's standard alternator can fully charge?
ie my car's manual (printed over 20 years ago) states a spec. of 70AH but today a 019 size battery up to 100AH will fit the tray.
 
I've often read/heard this advice, but is it possible to fit a higher AH (or CCA) rated battery than the car's standard alternator can fully charge?
ie my car's manual (printed over 20 years ago) states a spec. of 70AH but today a 019 size battery up to 100AH will fit the tray.

Exactly. Just because the higher powered battery may fit the tray does not mean that the alternator will be able to fully charge it. Presumably the alternator would require to be upgraded also? Is this correct?
 
Any alternator will always fully charge any battery - it just will takes a little longer with a larger capacity Battery - in fact slower charging helps to prolong the life of the battery.

In my experience* a battery of lower capacity than the Alternator output is (was, did) likely to have a shorter life.
*The Golf Mk1 I had a 27AH battery with 45A+ Alternator, Battery replaced 3 times under warrenty in less than 18 months. Manufacturers at the 3rd replacement via the dealer/agents advised that the battery should be replaced with a larger capacity one provided I pay the difference.
The Honda Accord I had a 40AH (Yusa) battery with 90A Alternator the battery in that lasted around 18 months between replacements, eventually fitted larger battery tray and larger battery; battery still on car and working well after 7 years.
Present Golf (2010) whilst Stop/Start function no longer working battery is more than able to start car after a nights outdoors. Factory fitted Battery 100AH with 79A Alternator.
 
Last edited:
Exactly. Just because the higher powered battery may fit the tray does not mean that the alternator will be able to fully charge it. Presumably the alternator would require to be upgraded also? Is this correct?
No.
 
Any alternator will always fully charge any battery - it just will takes a little longer with a larger capacity Battery - in fact slower charging helps to prolong the life of the battery.

Was not aware of this. Thanks for the info, WGT. ;)
 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top