As I said. Recommending fitting an rcd fcu 13a would be a fire hazard.
I know my preference. I have pointed this out.
I know my preference. I have pointed this out.
Adding 13A socket to cooker circuit
- Thread starter Rusty Gordini
- Start date
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Yes, when echoes' comment caused me to look again, I realised that - and, in any event, I'm not sure what I thought you would want 'three socket outlets' for!
As you will probably have realised, the main issue is about RCD protection for the new socket (unless you take Andy's view and decide to ignore that regulation
). Ironically, as has been said, if you chopped off its plug and hard-wired the hob to an FCU, then the requirement for RCD protection would disappear (provided the new cable was not buried in a wall), since an FCU is not a 'socket'!Kind Regards, John
Can I hardwire a hob flex? I'd lose the 13A fuse that the plug provides. And we use the CCU for a kettle, so that would be 6kW with the oven on.
I'm not sure where you are suggesting that this 'fire hazard' is coming from - perhaps you could clarify?
Kind Regards, John
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Yes, but if you did as EFLI suggested, there would be a 15A fuse in the CU (which is no worse than the 16A protection that the circuit would have everywhere else in Europe - where there are no 'plug fuses'). However ....
I think that you may have just moved EFLI's goalposts, by indicating why the CU fuse could probably not be reduced to 15A
Kind Regards, John
Thank you all for your input.
I'll digest it all in the morning!
I'll digest it all in the morning!
Can’t you plug the kettle in elsewhere ?
Yes. You can hardwire it to an FCU (thereby keeping the hob flex protected by a fuse, probably 3A). Don't bury any cables to the new FCU - you could install the FCU directly adjacent to the cooker outlet. The RCD requirement can then be kicked down the road.
Another suggestion (sans RCD)
Since your oven is 3 kW, you could use a plain Flex outlet for the oven + FCU with Flex outlet for the hob, both mounted on a twin back box. This arrangement would replace the Cooker outlet (where you currently have an existing socket.)
Since your oven is 3 kW, you could use a plain Flex outlet for the oven + FCU with Flex outlet for the hob, both mounted on a twin back box. This arrangement would replace the Cooker outlet (where you currently have an existing socket.)
Yes, but if you did as EFLI suggested, there would be a 15A fuse in the CU (which is no worse than the 16A protection that the circuit would have everywhere else in Europe - where there are no 'plug fuses'). However ....
I think that you may have just moved EFLI's goalposts, by indicating why the CU fuse could probably not be reduced to 15A
Kind Regards, John
Thank you both for your help.
The kitchen fitters will be installing the oven and hob. I don't suppose they'll appreciate me hardwiring the hob while they're trying to work, so what I propose to do is:
Fit a metal back box immediately adjacent to the box for the cooker outlet plate (or maybe use a dual box).
Run 2.5mm t/e from the cooker outlet to the new box and fit a 13A socket. This will mean that the (very short!) cable run will not technically be buried in a wall (??).
The fitters will merely need to plug the hob into the 13A socket. In the meantime we use the socket for our gas oven ignition.
Hardwire the oven flex to the cooker outlet plate - this will mean that the fitters will just need to snap the dangling plug into the rear of the oven. I will do this last bit on the evening before they come (and leave the circuit isolated), so that we don't at any time have a live cooker flex nestling behind our oven.
I'll mark the 13A socket as being on the cooker circuit in case anyone in the future should mistake it for the ring main.
That sounds excellent
Apart from bare wires.
Apart from bare wires.
Don't follow - bare wires..?
I thought there would be some loose wires while waiting for the fitter to fit the oven.
What plug do you get on the rear of an oven though?
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