am I allowed to fit new consumer unit

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I have the new unit ready. The old one has to go...it consists of the old push in pull out fuses and also has no plastic casing just metal (it was like that when i bought the house). I have experience of adding / removing circuits to a consumer unit. Outside the house there is a plastic box which used to contain a prepayment meter (we got that removed and so all thats there now is the main supply going into the meter and then on into old consumer unit above front door area. It seems that all I have to do is reomve a large 'fuse' between the main supply and the meter. The problem is that this has two metal ties on it (obviously to discourage people). If I paid someone to do the job (which is what I'm trying to avoid) they would cut these no doubt. My main question is a legal one. Is the customer allowed to remove this fuse in order to do maintenance?
If so, great [is any special tool required, or do I just pull it out by its plastic casing?]. If I am not legally allowed dont worry I wont
Thanks
 
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replacing a CU is not a maintainance proceedure..
you are not allowed to cut the seals on the fuse..
WE are not supposed to cut the seals on the fuse..
you call out the DNO ( people who supply your electricity ) and THEY come and take the fuse out.. you do the work and then they come back and put the fuse back in and seal it again..

are you aware of Part-P of the building regulations?

please have a google for it, or a look in the WIKI at the top of the site..

it says that you need to either contact the LABC and pay a fee to them BEFORE you start work on it, or you need to employ the services of a registered electrician who will do the notifying for you..
the second option is by far the easiest and safest..

BTW, just because a fuse box is metal does not make it unsafe.. they still make metal ones...
 
thanks for the quick answer
I'll get an electrician
hope it doesnt run into a big drama waiting for DNO etc
BTW I am aware of a document called Part-P. My experience is that it is often difficult for a layperson to understand and it is easier to ask you guys, occasionally the experts argue, I get the impression that the dcoument is a difficult one soemtime open to interpretation
anyway thanks again (my wife is pleased)
 
Well, the experts tend to argue quite a bit, and the reason is that one (or both) of them isn't an expert. However the Part P regulations are quite clear on consumer units, provision of a consumer unit requires notification, and there is not much more to say about that.

A simple replacement of a consumer unit, with no additional work required, is certainly one time it is almost always cost effective to pay somebody else to do it. Should cost £300 and up, much more than that start to smell a rat, and always get three quotes. Anymore than that then ask questions, though there are quite legitimate reasons why it should cost more, but then get your three quotes. No shortage of cowboys out there, and some are even members of self certifying schemes. Shock horror.

Don't sweat about the fuse seal. Get the electrician to fit an isolator while he is at it. If you get one who won't do it, then move to the next one. This will be extra of course. DNO don't really care unless you tamper with the meter seals, then you might get a visit from the police.
 
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You may hot have to wait at all for your supplier, it depends on their stance on it and oddly your location.
I asked mine (NPower) to fit a suitable isolation switch between their supply and the meter as that'll make it safer for my electrician to fit my new consumer unit and after checking my post code they said they don't fit them in my area and gave permission for the electrician to cut the ties, pull the fuse and do the required work then inform then when it's done so that they can reseal it.
You could ask for similar as I believe some suppliers fit switches for free and some for a nominal charge (your electrician will probably prefer it if there's one installed too) & if they won't fit one they'll tell you what the procedure is.
As mentioned, don't attempt any of this yourself :)
 
Get the electrician to fit an isolator while he is at it.

Achieves nothing, a waste of time and money.

As part of the cu works all the circuits have to be inspected and tested (PIR), your sparks approach to how this is done will indicate whether he is competent and trustworthy or a cowboy/rip off merchant.

If he suggests doing a PIR before doing the cu change, chances are he is trustwothy. The PIR should indicate any existing problems for which repair costs can be agreed - before staring work. You will have to pay separately for PIR if you decide not to proceed with the cu change.

If he says he will do the PIR after the change, he intends ripping you off and you will liable for uncontrolled additional costs.
 
No one actually checks the main fuse seals, and I don't think anyone actually cares.

Unless there is some other dodgy stuff gone on with the meter, then its really not an issue whether the seals are intact or broken.

There is no proof who cut them, or when, and the householder is often unaware that they even exist.
 
Even if the local supplier does allow for third parties to pull the main fuse it is NOT something to be done without a considerable amount of thought.

If the fuse holder is modern and in good condition then the risks are small but still significant for a DIY or less experienced electrician who pulls the fuse.

If the fuse holder is old, corroded, damaged or otherwise in less than perfect condition then there are serious risks to the person pulling the fuse and the property around the fuse holder if the fuse holder falls apart when the fuse is taken out and the incoming supply is shorted.
 
1/ It allows isolation of DNO supply

So does the main isolator on a cu.

.

Not quite, the main isolator will remove the supply to the live and neutral busbars in the CU but it does not completely isolate the DNO's supply from the CU.

As you well know, Swiss boy :evil: , the tails will still be live into the top of the isolator in the CU. Given the point of this thread was to discuss a CU change then an isolator provded by the DNO between the meter and the CU is what is required to properly isolate the DNO's supply without having to break their seals.

Maybe things are different in Switzerland or Russia or wherever you pretend to live - but that the way they do things here in the UK.
 
thanks for all the replies - all very imformative as usual
One of you mentioned £300 + . There's no way I'm paying anyone that much. If necessary, they can fit the main supply cables then go. I'll fit the house circuits back in myself. If it wasnt for the fact that often cable length means the new unit would have to go in same position, I would drill and fix the new unit to the wall before they came (to get the price down even more). Anyway thanks again. I'll phone an electrician tomorrow, and if necessary the DNO
 
I'll fit the house circuits back in myself.

How are you going to test these circuits to ensure they are safe?
Or to ensure that they will actually work with the new consumer unit?
What type of consumer unit will you be installing?
How will you be selecting the correct size of circuit breakers?
What about the main protective bonding?

If you live in England or Wales, you will need to submit a building notice and pay the relevant fee before starting any of this work.
 
I'll get an electrician
One of you mentioned £300 + . There's no way I'm paying anyone that much.
Your expectations are unreasonable.


BTW I am aware of a document called Part-P. My experience is that it is often difficult for a layperson to understand and it is easier to ask you guys, occasionally the experts argue, I get the impression that the dcoument is a difficult one soemtime open to interpretation
Well, the experts tend to argue quite a bit, and the reason is that one (or both) of them isn't an expert. However the Part P regulations are quite clear on consumer units, provision of a consumer unit requires notification, and there is not much more to say about that.
If necessary, they can fit the main supply cables then go. I'll fit the house circuits back in myself.
What is the point of asking for expert advice if you're just going to ignore anything that you don't like?

How will you do all the testing that should be done when replacing a CU?

How will you issue an EIC for it?

What will you do about LABC notification and Building Regulations compliance?


thanks for all the replies - all very imformative as usual
Yeah, but it was pretty pointless anyone bothering to reply.
 

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