i dont get you ,why you coming up with another sum?
Any one used the BRICKY TOOL?
- Thread starter carryoncamping
- Start date
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no you never see it lol ,specs savers got some good dealsDid you miss an apostrophe out?
Think you need more than glasses pal fnt. pal nah not that f idiot more like, tell you what go learn how to collect trollys cause thats all that fits for yer ! TxxT
oh almost forgot like to rip other work eh - well care to visit ? or you all trap son !!
oh almost forgot like to rip other work eh - well care to visit ? or you all trap son !!
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huh ,jesus bong il have a match head what ever your on i cant make head o tail of it all,no wonder why the building looked like it did lolono you never see it lol ,specs savers got some good dealsDid you miss an apostrophe out?
Think you need more than glasses pal fnt. pal nah not that f idiot more like, tell you what go learn how to collect trollys cause thats all that fits for yer ! TxxT oh almost forgot like to rip other work eh - well care to visit ? or you all trap son !!
just got a interpreter, yeah iam in hampshire next week for sure,
il bring a sledge hammer with me i need some hard core for a drive iam doing there see you soon bongo boy
il bring a sledge hammer with me i need some hard core for a drive iam doing there see you soon bongo boy
Yes you are right one thing it does not point out is.
Bricks alter in depth and length,bricks with a bed have to work to 75mm, two course 150mm,3= 225mm if a bricklayer has a brick that is 63mm he will make the bed 13 mm to make it up to 75mm.
The head hights for all window and doors work to this gauge, so the brickies mate give a perfect 10mm bed, so usuing a brick that is 63mm deep with a 10mm bed you would be out of gauge by 2mm per brick.
So its 28 course to door lintel 28x2 is 56mm you would be out of gauge,seeing that 3 brick equal to one block on the inner leaf, how would the ties work,wall ties can tilt from the inner leaf to the outer leaf too much of a tilt and the site agent would have kittens and ask you to take it down.
One hospital job i worked on was murder, the bricks were very hard and had been baked, the depth on them were 62mm we had to do joint 13mm deep, the Architect and Foreman came and were screaming blue murder,he checked our gauge and it was 75,150,225,300,375,450,600,
We were correct you do not make 10mm beds because it looks good, you stick to gauge which is what you have to do.
Yes its ok for the lay man, but to say a bricklayer would use it is a load of old tosh no bricklayer worth his salt would do 10mm beds, 10 mm bed would only work with bricks that would be 65mm deep, i have used brick that are 68 deep i then had to make the beds 7mm deep, again with brickies mate i would be 3mm + out of gauge, after 28 courses i would be 84mm + out of gauge.
Work it out for your self,the same applies to linear brick work,225,450,750,900,if i have bricks that are 212 i make a 13mm perp to get back to linear gauge 212+13= 225 again it says the perfect 10mm perp on the bricks, by using the perfect perp you are - 3mm short on 225mm which is what it should me, so after 30 bricks you would be out 60mm.
You can have bricks in aload that change from + to - to 215, so using brickies mate how would you keep the perps running in a straight line.
No i do think its a great tool for the person who want to do a garden wall,buy to say a real bricklayer went faster using this is too much to take, unless he was not a real bricklayer and this did make him faster, go out nect time and see how bricks sizes alter in depth and length, do nor take my word for it, then sit down and work it out.
Bricks alter in depth and length,bricks with a bed have to work to 75mm, two course 150mm,3= 225mm if a bricklayer has a brick that is 63mm he will make the bed 13 mm to make it up to 75mm.
The head hights for all window and doors work to this gauge, so the brickies mate give a perfect 10mm bed, so usuing a brick that is 63mm deep with a 10mm bed you would be out of gauge by 2mm per brick.
So its 28 course to door lintel 28x2 is 56mm you would be out of gauge,seeing that 3 brick equal to one block on the inner leaf, how would the ties work,wall ties can tilt from the inner leaf to the outer leaf too much of a tilt and the site agent would have kittens and ask you to take it down.
One hospital job i worked on was murder, the bricks were very hard and had been baked, the depth on them were 62mm we had to do joint 13mm deep, the Architect and Foreman came and were screaming blue murder,he checked our gauge and it was 75,150,225,300,375,450,600,
We were correct you do not make 10mm beds because it looks good, you stick to gauge which is what you have to do.
Yes its ok for the lay man, but to say a bricklayer would use it is a load of old tosh no bricklayer worth his salt would do 10mm beds, 10 mm bed would only work with bricks that would be 65mm deep, i have used brick that are 68 deep i then had to make the beds 7mm deep, again with brickies mate i would be 3mm + out of gauge, after 28 courses i would be 84mm + out of gauge.
Work it out for your self,the same applies to linear brick work,225,450,750,900,if i have bricks that are 212 i make a 13mm perp to get back to linear gauge 212+13= 225 again it says the perfect 10mm perp on the bricks, by using the perfect perp you are - 3mm short on 225mm which is what it should me, so after 30 bricks you would be out 60mm.
You can have bricks in aload that change from + to - to 215, so using brickies mate how would you keep the perps running in a straight line.
No i do think its a great tool for the person who want to do a garden wall,buy to say a real bricklayer went faster using this is too much to take, unless he was not a real bricklayer and this did make him faster, go out nect time and see how bricks sizes alter in depth and length, do nor take my word for it, then sit down and work it out.
The (metric) bricks we are using at the mo' are somewhat smaller than a 'standard' metric brick by as much as a couple of mill on length and height.
This is made obvious when building off the dpc where you have regular class b's below which are fairly standard and are having to butter big perp's to keep up the bond.
Similar story tying to keep to 75mm guage - biggish beds.
Ho hum.
This is made obvious when building off the dpc where you have regular class b's below which are fairly standard and are having to butter big perp's to keep up the bond.
Similar story tying to keep to 75mm guage - biggish beds.
Ho hum.
I'm surprised at the anger shown by some pro brickies on this site towards the Bricky tool.
I have every sympathy with those that have done a 7 year apprenticeship and find themselves struggling for work against hobbyists using a £40 piece of plastic tooling. But I temper that sympathy with reality.
I asked a local reputable bricky to build a retaining brick wall in my garden. The foundations were in, all he had to do was lay bricks over a distance of 12 metres, on sloping ground, max height 1.5m. He quoted me £3,000 with me providing the bricks. I declined.
Instead, I spent £40 on a plastic tool and invested some personal time. The result is NOT pro but the wall works and I learned a ton - including how to lay a bed of mortar by hand because there are many places a Bricky tool just can't go.
What else did I learn?
- The right mortar consistency is VITAL and more important than most anything, except maybe a good quality spirit level.
- Gauge rods are always your friend.
- Profiles are a very good idea.
- Being pedantic about the depth of your foundations pays dividends (don't fall foul of the cement delivery guy saying "I've got some spare, mate. I'll just top off this section of foundation for you").
- Laying engineering bricks is A LOT different to laying facing bricks.
- Cutting engineering bricks with a chisel is an exercise in waste management and futility.
- Cutting London bricks with a chisel is a DREAM by comparison (20mm brick section? Sure, no problem).
And that's probably the real beauty of the Bricky tool. It helps to overcome inertia and encourage people to have a go. Laying a simple brick wall is NOT hard.
I'm also surprised that some of those same brickies display such a clear level of misunderstanding about the Bricky tool itself.
Firstly, it lays a 13.5 mm depth bed (not 10mm) to allow for tapping down and small variances in brick sizes. It won't be of much use for regrade or reclaimed bricks that can vary in size or even (as in the case of some I had delivered recently) be bowed. However, for good quality bricks from a good manufacturer, it's fine. You'll also quickly develop and eye for those bricks that are dimensionally off and leave them out of your current build.
Also, let's not forget that while the Bricky can only handle recessed joints, it also helps hugely in preventing snots in cavity wall construction.
My advice for pro-bricklayers (for what it's worth) is this:
A £40 plastic tool will never replace you. You have skills that are hard earned and the ability to perform at a standard and quality that surpasses most expectations from we hobbyists. But, try and overcharge us for a simple job and not only do you diminish your value and standing in our eyes, we'll simply try DIY instead.
To paraphrase: Don't price yourself out of the market.
I have every sympathy with those that have done a 7 year apprenticeship and find themselves struggling for work against hobbyists using a £40 piece of plastic tooling. But I temper that sympathy with reality.
I asked a local reputable bricky to build a retaining brick wall in my garden. The foundations were in, all he had to do was lay bricks over a distance of 12 metres, on sloping ground, max height 1.5m. He quoted me £3,000 with me providing the bricks. I declined.
Instead, I spent £40 on a plastic tool and invested some personal time. The result is NOT pro but the wall works and I learned a ton - including how to lay a bed of mortar by hand because there are many places a Bricky tool just can't go.
What else did I learn?
- The right mortar consistency is VITAL and more important than most anything, except maybe a good quality spirit level.
- Gauge rods are always your friend.
- Profiles are a very good idea.
- Being pedantic about the depth of your foundations pays dividends (don't fall foul of the cement delivery guy saying "I've got some spare, mate. I'll just top off this section of foundation for you").
- Laying engineering bricks is A LOT different to laying facing bricks.
- Cutting engineering bricks with a chisel is an exercise in waste management and futility.
- Cutting London bricks with a chisel is a DREAM by comparison (20mm brick section? Sure, no problem).
And that's probably the real beauty of the Bricky tool. It helps to overcome inertia and encourage people to have a go. Laying a simple brick wall is NOT hard.
I'm also surprised that some of those same brickies display such a clear level of misunderstanding about the Bricky tool itself.
Firstly, it lays a 13.5 mm depth bed (not 10mm) to allow for tapping down and small variances in brick sizes. It won't be of much use for regrade or reclaimed bricks that can vary in size or even (as in the case of some I had delivered recently) be bowed. However, for good quality bricks from a good manufacturer, it's fine. You'll also quickly develop and eye for those bricks that are dimensionally off and leave them out of your current build.
Also, let's not forget that while the Bricky can only handle recessed joints, it also helps hugely in preventing snots in cavity wall construction.
My advice for pro-bricklayers (for what it's worth) is this:
A £40 plastic tool will never replace you. You have skills that are hard earned and the ability to perform at a standard and quality that surpasses most expectations from we hobbyists. But, try and overcharge us for a simple job and not only do you diminish your value and standing in our eyes, we'll simply try DIY instead.
To paraphrase: Don't price yourself out of the market.
Just because you couldn't afford him, doesn't mean his price was too high...and also you are holding back information which will inhibit us from understanding if 3,000 is too high in price.
4 or 9 inch wall etc, location of wall from delivery point, quality of foundations etc (or was this in his price), when you say sloping wall, was he going to run the bricks on a slope or step his foundations/brickwork accordingly.
Also, if it would have taken him the same amount of time it took you to do it no doubt you would have taken issue with him. you are paying for speed and knowledge, not just how many bricks are involved.
And as previous posters mention, if you are gauging 75 with a 63mm brick 1.5mm is not enough of a 'tap down'.
4 or 9 inch wall etc, location of wall from delivery point, quality of foundations etc (or was this in his price), when you say sloping wall, was he going to run the bricks on a slope or step his foundations/brickwork accordingly.
Also, if it would have taken him the same amount of time it took you to do it no doubt you would have taken issue with him. you are paying for speed and knowledge, not just how many bricks are involved.
And as previous posters mention, if you are gauging 75 with a 63mm brick 1.5mm is not enough of a 'tap down'.
cant believe i walked into that one!Basecoat, I am by no means a skilled brickie capable of 650 a day, but I am veteran of several barbeques, greenhouses, cowsheds and whatnot.
Coupla' things confuse me about the Bricky: it assumes that your joints will be consistently 10mm - the job I am about to undertake is an old house with some variation, which of course Bricky can't accommodate - unless I nail a bit of ply to the underside!
Then, when I watched the review at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDARX3Xlfww , I realised that you can't, of course, employ the usual method of building up the ends of a wall to get a vertical guide for, say, six courses, then filling in: so, more opportunity for error to creep in, I surmise.
Thirdly, I always thought that it was desirable to lay a 'fluffy' bed of mortar for each brick, so that you have full adhesion and a little 'squeezeout' on each side . . .
The other factor, of course, is the sheer embarrassment of being seen to use an obvious DIYer's tools under the critical gaze of the customer.
Cheers, Mark
Coupla' things confuse me about the Bricky: it assumes that your joints will be consistently 10mm - the job I am about to undertake is an old house with some variation, which of course Bricky can't accommodate - unless I nail a bit of ply to the underside!
Then, when I watched the review at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDARX3Xlfww , I realised that you can't, of course, employ the usual method of building up the ends of a wall to get a vertical guide for, say, six courses, then filling in: so, more opportunity for error to creep in, I surmise.
Thirdly, I always thought that it was desirable to lay a 'fluffy' bed of mortar for each brick, so that you have full adhesion and a little 'squeezeout' on each side . . .
The other factor, of course, is the sheer embarrassment of being seen to use an obvious DIYer's tools under the critical gaze of the customer.
Cheers, Mark
that is a painful video to watch , and as you rightly say any customer seeing you "play " with one of those things will not be filled with much confidence !!!!
I'd be gob smacked if a pro turned up with a Bricky Pro as any brick layer should be able to work just as neatly and faster freehand. They wouldn't want to use a Bricky tool.
But for the average DIY enthusiast, or just someone who needs to build a small wall and wants to give it a bash themselves, the Bricky Pro is a great tool which'll definitely help provide a better quality result in less time that it'd take to do it freehand.
I'm the latter. I built a 60cm dual skin dwarf wall for my 3x4m conservatory. The first two brick layers I did by hand. The finish was excellent, but (as a complete novice at the time) it took me two days to complete it in line with my high standards. So I bought a bricky pro and finished the rest of the layers of bricks in another 2 days. Far faster and the finish was just as good as the layers I'd done freehand.
But for the average DIY enthusiast, or just someone who needs to build a small wall and wants to give it a bash themselves, the Bricky Pro is a great tool which'll definitely help provide a better quality result in less time that it'd take to do it freehand.
I'm the latter. I built a 60cm dual skin dwarf wall for my 3x4m conservatory. The first two brick layers I did by hand. The finish was excellent, but (as a complete novice at the time) it took me two days to complete it in line with my high standards. So I bought a bricky pro and finished the rest of the layers of bricks in another 2 days. Far faster and the finish was just as good as the layers I'd done freehand.
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