Anyone recommend a Suitable LED Driver?

[stem]

I have 4 of these lights in my bathroom.

Untitled

• stem
• 24 Jan 2013
• 3

They were installed 5 years ago and are connected to a single driver. There is no dimmer in circuit, and each is fitted with an mr16 12v 5w LED lamp.

Yesterday, after being switched on for a few seconds, they started to flash on and off at half second intervals. I removed the lamps one at a time in case there was a fault with one of them that was pulling too much current, but it didn't resolve anything the remaining lamps continued to flash. So I assume now that the driver is at fault.

In theory a replacement should be simple, 5W x 4 = 20W, so I need a 20W 12v LED driver. Or do I?

Reading reviews of some drivers, it appears that some LED's seem not to work when connected to a driver that is specified as having the required capacity or even more, allegedly due to an 'inrush current' caused by connecting several lamps to the one driver. Is this correct? Would I be better using a 30W driver, or would that cause problems because it wasn't being operated at full load?

 

[aptsys]

If they are plain 12V MR16 lamps, then just use a good quality 12V power supply. I usually use one from XP Power.

 

[bernardgreen]

and each is fitted with an mr16 12v 5w LED lamp.

As the lamps are 12 volt then inside the lamp there is a LED driver and an LED element. The driver in the lamp controls the amount of current that flows through the LED element.

The lamps require a 12 volt supply, It doesn't say whether it has to be 12 volts AC or DC.

Hence a 12 volt power supply is needed. It should provide 12 volts AC or DC as required by the lamps. The lamps control how much power they take from the power supply.

The problems arise when a DC power supply rated as 12 volt (eff) is used. The modifier (eff) is short for "effective" and means that the output has the same effect on incandescent lamps as 12 DC would. 12 volt (eff) can be 24 volts pulsed on and off at high frequency such that the average voltage is 12 volts. ( some examples were found with peak voltages of over 36 volts. )

The LED driver in the lamp may not operate correctly on a pulsed supply and may over time be damaged by the peak voltages that are higher that the rated input voltage.

 

[stem]

Thanks aptsys & bernardgreen. Thak makes it easier.

It doesn't say whether it has to be 12 volts AC or DC.

It does, but rather embarrassingly I forgot to write that bit down, but I seem to think it said AC/DC, but will check later.

 

[winston1]

So I assume now that the driver is at fault.

You should never "assume" with electrics.

DON'T whatever you do use a general purpose switch mode driver designed for halogen lamps.
Why don't you look and see what is already there and get the same.

But personally I would be looking at changing the lamps to 240 volt LEDs. What bases are currently used?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

DON'T whatever you do use a general purpose switch mode driver designed for halogen lamps.

They aren't drivers - they are power supplies, or electronic transformers.

 

[Lectrician]

Varilight do them. TLC stock them.

 

[stem]

Thanks Lectrician, I like the spec and flexibility (0-50W) so will go with that.

 

[stem]

I just tried the lights again this morning and they are working as usual, however I will replace the transformer anyway.

You should never "assume" with electrics.

I suppose so, but as I've eliminated the LED lamps one by one, there's a steady 230V supply to the transformer, that only leaves the transformer itself.......or the cables from the transformer to the lights.

Why don't you look and see what is already there and get the same.

That was my initial stance, it looks identical to the on in photo below, and has exactly the same spec. But as I'm not impressed with it failing after 5 years of light use (no pun intended) I have gone with Lectricians recommendation of the Varilight.

But personally I would be looking at changing the lamps to 240 volt LEDs. What bases are currently used?

They are mr16's (GU5.3) I have the same ASTRO Pyramid lights in my kitchen which are 230V GU10's and 10 years old. When I wanted to buy them for the bathroom, about 5 years ago, I could only get 12v mr16's

 

[Seb101]

I have used the Integral Constant Voltage Drivers in several locations for 12V LEDs and not had any issues, they seem well made and well designed.

https://www.integral-led.com/drivers/constant-voltage

This one would suit your needs:
https://www.integral-led.com/produc...tage-led-driver-200-240vac-12vdc-non-dimmable

 

[securespark]

They aren't drivers - they are power supplies, or electronic transformers.

Oh Christ, duck!

 

[winston1]

I just tried the lights again this morning and they are working as usual, however I will replace the transformer anyway.

I suppose so, but as I've eliminated the LED lamps one by one, there's a steady 230V supply to the transformer, that only leaves the transformer itself.......or the cables from the transformer to the lights.

That was my initial stance, it looks identical to the on in photo below, and has exactly the same spec. But as I'm not impressed with it failing after 5 years of light use (no pun intended) I have gone with Lectricians recommendation of the Varilight.

View attachment 135663


They are mr16's (GU5.3) I have the same ASTRO Pyramid lights in my kitchen which are 230V GU10's and 10 years old. When I wanted to buy them for the bathroom, about 5 years ago, I could only get 12v mr16's

Maybe so, but there are plenty of other 240V GU10 LEDs available.

MR16 is not a base, it is a lamp size. Most, not all, GU10 base lamps are MR16s.

 

[winston1]

But as I'm not impressed with it failing after 5 years of light use (no pun intended) I have gone with Lectricians recommendation of the Varilight.

Well if you want long life don't go for these electronic power supplies at all. Use this:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TLT50slash1.html