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Bathroom Extractor Fan Incorrectly Wired ?

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I've been looking through the wiki, using it as a reference guide to see if anything in my house needs sorting when I came across this :- Clicky

When you look at the actual installation in my bathroom :-

fan.jpg


I can't see how a triple pole isolator could have been fitted anywhere in this circuit, unless there is something already in the fan body/fluorescent fitting. Have I understood the wiki correctly and that fan should be connected with three core & earth, through a TP isolator, or are there other considerations to take into account with it being a florrie light ?

Cheers
 
When you look at the actual installation in my bathroom :-
Good grief - how hard would it have been to run the cable above the ceiling and chase that short drop into the wall??

I can't see how a triple pole isolator could have been fitted anywhere in this circuit,
Nor I.

unless there is something already in the fan body/fluorescent fitting.
There won't be.

Have I understood the wiki correctly and that fan should be connected with three core & earth, through a TP isolator,
Does it need both a permanent and switched live?

or are there other considerations to take into account with it being a florrie light ?
Not fan-wise, but a serious consideration you should take into account is that that light is not suitable for a bathroom....
 
Judging by the colour of the light........I would expect it not to be a bathroom......but who knows!

I expect this is a flat and quick in and out was required by the landlord!
 
Judging by the colour of the light........I would expect it not to be a bathroom......but who knows!
I expect this is a flat and quick in and out was required by the landlord!

Nope, this is my bathroom I'm afraid to say. I certainly think that the extractor must have been fitted as part of an afterthought by the original owners. Please tell me that no qualified spark would do work like that ? I'm not a sparkie but even I can see that there is summat wrong with that :( As for the florrie fitting being shabby - guilty as charged :oops: I'm trying to deal with all the important physical gear around the house before we worry about decorating.

Good grief - how hard would it have been to run the cable above the ceiling and chase that short drop into the wall??

That's prolly to do with the fact that the Kitchen/Bathroom is an extension off the house, a two-up two-down mid-terrace. we had the flat roof recovered a few weeks ago and there is NO space above the ceiling whatsoever.

Does it need both a permanent and switched live?

I should imagine so coz it runs on for about 5 minutes after the light is switched off

Not fan-wise, but a serious consideration you should take into account is that that light is not suitable for a bathroom....

Why is that BAS. I must admit I'm a fan of florrie lights coz of the lack of shadows they cast but only in places like kitchens and bathrooms. Are they not allowed in those rooms ?

Thanks for the replies as always guys.
 
If you want a fluorescent tube in the bathroom it will have to be in a sealed unit...not too keen on that type of light except for kitchens or sheds myself :D
 
If you want a fluorescent tube in the bathroom it will have to be in a sealed unit...not too keen on that type of light except for kitchens or sheds myself :D

Ah right, that's not too bad then, I can soon fit one of those.

Summat else to add to the list :roll:
 
Think I'm having a Brain-Fart with this one guys :? I just started looking for tp isolators on the net - sheds - eBay etc & they all appear to be switches,

As I said earlier, the fan comes on automatically as soon as we turn the bathroom light on, I don't want to have it turned on manually by a separate switch, it works perfectly as it is.

Is this a regulation issue ? i.e. the fan must be able to be isolated by a separate switch for when working on it / replacing etc.

Thanks
 
The point of a TP isolator is that as the fan has a permanent live, just turning the light switch off won't isolate it. To do that you'd also have to turn off the entire lighting circuit, which might not be convenient, and certainly isn't in rooms with no natural light.

As for whether an isolator for the fan is actually required by the regs - are we all up for another argument?
 
The point of a TP isolator is that as the fan has a permanent live, just turning the light switch off won't isolate it. To do that you'd also have to turn off the entire lighting circuit, which might not be convenient, and certainly isn't in rooms with no natural light.

Thanks BAS, think I needed a shove to get the brain into gear, I'm with it now - finally :oops:

Seems to be a pretty intelligent move to me really, I can see the point of the TP now. So in my case, the TP would prolly be best on the wall, in between the feed from the light & the fan. At least that way, I can sink a socket into the wall, they're only them naff cinder blocks anyway, so don't need much work to get a hole in.

I'll have to see if there is enough space in the roof cavity to get that bit of cable from the light to the wall hidden 'n' all.

Last one on this subject - honest :) , is there a regulation distance from the ceiling that the TP can be fitted ?

Thanks as always. :D
 
I'm sure I read in the OSG that the fan only needed an isolator if there wasnt a window in the bathroom.
 
Is the fan near the Bath

The fan is directly above one end of the bath. I don't mind doing any extra masonry work as it's only a 4" one and frankly, it's just about useless at shifting any reasonable amount of steam. :(

I'm sure I read in the OSG that the fan only needed an isolator if there wasnt a window in the bathroom.

It is in the part p guide
But as I was told it is a guide not the regs

Thanks for the info guys but, as BAS pointed out, if I have to work on it in the future and I hadn't fitted the TP Isolator, I would have to isolate the whole lighting cct to the b/room at the CU. Fitting the Isolator definitely looks like the way to go in this case. I will have to fit one for the Shower Cubicle as well.

At least by the time I'm finished, we should be living in a house that will be correctly wired.

Thanks as always.
 
The wiring (in trunking) might or might not be avoidable to comply.
Purely from an electrical view (not Building regs and ventillation (Dear old Ban hinted at this - that is another kettle of....).
If no over run = no permanent phase then an isolator for the fan only is prefferable but not strictly a requirement, in other words switching off the light switches off the fan.
If timed over run then all 3 poles (N, switched Phase & permant Phase) must be isolated for safety.
A fluoro fitting in a bathroom is not the wisest choice irrespective of zoning requirements.
 
A fluoro fitting in a bathroom is not the wisest choice irrespective of zoning requirements.

So are you saying that I shouldn't really have a florrie fitted in the bathroom, even if I fit a sealed unit ? I know it's only personal preference in my case but I really do like that sort of light in that area.

As stated in previous posts, I am going to contact the LABC about what I propose to do, do you think they will require I have an ELV lighting system fitted ? In that case, are there ELV florries available that are bigger than the usual tiny 12V versions that are fitted under cupboards ( & in the back of my works van ) etc. ?

I am trying to get as much info as possible before contacting them so I won't get any nasty surprises when the inspector arrives to do the initial check.
 

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