Pathetic.
Best plastic fittings
- Thread starter wcavanagh
- Start date
What a stupid thread! No wonder DIYers don't always hold tradesmen in the highest regard.
Yes it does get stupid. But one has to try and protect diyers from advice that will get them into potential hot water. [sic].
Nobcorn can't justify his stupid statements. Never can, but the unwitting could fall foul of his ridiculous ideas.
Nobcorn can't justify his stupid statements. Never can, but the unwitting could fall foul of his ridiculous ideas.
It gets stupid when idiots like your self advocate using inferior pushfits under floors in inaccessible places.
Answer the questions if you are such the expert.
Why is compression not allowed on gas where inaccessible when oring based joints are?
Why is compression not allowed on gas where inaccessible when oring based joints are?
Why should it matter what is in the pipes?
If your blessed compression fittings are so reliable when in inaccessible areas, then they would be allowed for gas no?
Come on.
Answer the question:
Why is compression not allowed on gas where inaccessible when oring based joints are?
If your blessed compression fittings are so reliable when in inaccessible areas, then they would be allowed for gas no?
Come on.
Answer the question:
Why is compression not allowed on gas where inaccessible when oring based joints are?
I see. 
Which gas authority would that be?
So what do WRAS say about compression fittings in inaccessible places?
Which gas authority would that be?
So what do WRAS say about compression fittings in inaccessible places?
Norcon???
Just oh dear.....
That is all
(ps please post pics of all your plastic installs that are above the floor!! Would love to see a perimeter system in speedfit!!)
Just oh dear.....
That is all
(ps please post pics of all your plastic installs that are above the floor!! Would love to see a perimeter system in speedfit!!)
Also just for laughs if I put 100 joints together in situ under a floor with speed-fit and you do the same with compression who will be done first with less leaks?
Please please tell me you will put plenty paste on the fittings?? Saying that you come across as a PTFE on the compression threads kinda guy
Please please tell me you will put plenty paste on the fittings?? Saying that you come across as a PTFE on the compression threads kinda guy
Just to add my twopenneth (sp) if I may?
Any jobs that I spec for myself to do the work, I walk away from any job that involves plastic hot/cold or heating pipework. 3 reasons:
1) Has anyone tried replacing a part on a boiler where it involves the possible disturbance of a joint that incorporates o-rings. I have found that o-rings do not remain supple once a few years of heat has been applied.
2) Some public liability insurances do not cover plastic pipe for more than 6 months.
3) I'm not going to say that copper is the perfect option, but it is much more durable than in terms of carrying the heating water and the debris that is held in suspension. I've been to many jobs where builders have removed an existing rad and extended the pipework using plastic, through the extension before refitting the same (usually now undersized rad). Give it 5-10 years and that rad ceases to heat up, caused by complete blockage of the plastic pipe with magnetite whilst the copper pipe that it's connected to is still clear. Some properties have had not just 15mm plastic but also 22mm plastic pipe blocked solid. I have my theory why this happens to plastic pipe, but whether I'm right or wrong, it still happens.
Magnetic filters are worth their weight in gold, but no matter how much flushing and inhibitor you add, you will not eliminate corrosion of steel radiators. Copper pipe has proven the test of time. I have ripped out more plastic pipe than copper easily.
Buy cheap, buy twice (or pay twice as much to rectify).
Any jobs that I spec for myself to do the work, I walk away from any job that involves plastic hot/cold or heating pipework. 3 reasons:
1) Has anyone tried replacing a part on a boiler where it involves the possible disturbance of a joint that incorporates o-rings. I have found that o-rings do not remain supple once a few years of heat has been applied.
2) Some public liability insurances do not cover plastic pipe for more than 6 months.
3) I'm not going to say that copper is the perfect option, but it is much more durable than in terms of carrying the heating water and the debris that is held in suspension. I've been to many jobs where builders have removed an existing rad and extended the pipework using plastic, through the extension before refitting the same (usually now undersized rad). Give it 5-10 years and that rad ceases to heat up, caused by complete blockage of the plastic pipe with magnetite whilst the copper pipe that it's connected to is still clear. Some properties have had not just 15mm plastic but also 22mm plastic pipe blocked solid. I have my theory why this happens to plastic pipe, but whether I'm right or wrong, it still happens.
Magnetic filters are worth their weight in gold, but no matter how much flushing and inhibitor you add, you will not eliminate corrosion of steel radiators. Copper pipe has proven the test of time. I have ripped out more plastic pipe than copper easily.
Buy cheap, buy twice (or pay twice as much to rectify).
First option when laying plastic under floors where inaccessible is full runs with no joints.
Second option is compression where jointed and lastly is pushfit.
Only an idiot goes for the latter. And there certainly seems to be plenty of them on here.
Someone who doesn't care about the later consequences as he will be long gone and doesn't give a hoot.
Second option is compression where jointed and lastly is pushfit.
Only an idiot goes for the latter. And there certainly seems to be plenty of them on here.
Someone who doesn't care about the later consequences as he will be long gone and doesn't give a hoot.
Ok guys, thanks for all the advice, I think. Lol.
I have pulled in the two main 22mm 25m flow and return pipes in one go so far. Ordered rads so they will arrive Monday / Tuesday then I can position rads, and work out runs. Still not sure if I should use compression or push fit to Tee off the 22mm yet. Lol
I have pulled in the two main 22mm 25m flow and return pipes in one go so far. Ordered rads so they will arrive Monday / Tuesday then I can position rads, and work out runs. Still not sure if I should use compression or push fit to Tee off the 22mm yet. Lol
D
Dean744PiN5
Does this look like the work of someone that doesn't care?
Come on nobend I have shown you my experience where is yours and what exactly do you do for a living?
Either way, without regular flushing and if there's no Magnaclean (or equivalent) fitted, I would put my money on you beginning to have problems with the plastic pipe within 10 years on your heating system.
Dean, what do you think of the Intergas units mate?
Dean, what do you think of the Intergas units mate?
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
