Boiler Issues - not sure what's wrong and charges for fixing it

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On Thursday evening I heard a dripping noise around the boiler that I eventually sourced to the acetal tundish. I have left the boiler off since that time as a precaution.

I looked up a plumber website online and a guy came over on Saturday. He did a quick visual check and no more and stated the Expansion Vessel, Filter and both immersion heaters would need replacement and the water in the boiler would have to be drained out as the hard water has damaged it all. I pointed out I did not use the Booster and so he checked it and decided it was not working and then realised it was because the Booster was turned off. He turned it on and then decided it was working.

I asked how much everything would cost for the replacement parts and labour on my Range Tribune HE unvented 150 litre cylinder boiler and he said the following

vessel = £105
element = £125
filter = £85

estimate of labour time = 4-6 hours
total cost (excluding VAT I assume) = £665

Do these charges seem reasonable?
Also can the plumber do a proper check by visual means only? Im not sure the problems have been correctly identified. All I can tell is that the expansion vessel is full of water and I should have had a service check years ago as the filter says it was checked on '16 October 07' so probably the filter does need replacing. The plumber says this make no longer exists as it is that old.

How long do filters typically last?
 

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Lucky escape there....he's a crook. A pack of lies.
Find someone else with an unvented cylinder licence..check they have their G3 card.

If you're getting hot water then it might just need a new expansion valve and vessel re-charge. Worst case might be a vessel replacement and possibly the pressure reducing valve cartridge too.

You could buy a whole new Tribune cylinder for less than his estimate.

https://www.plumbnation.co.uk/site/range-tribune-he-direct-unvented-cylinders/
 
Thanks for your replies,

I did a quick google on the items and each of them has a large mark up.

Regarding the filters - how long do they typically last for? The plumber said they only last around 12 months. Now I accept I should take what he says with a large pinch of salt but the filter is 11 years old.
 
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Thanks for your replies,

I contacted the Liff Limefighter company and they say their product typically lasts 8 - 10 years so at 11 years old its about time I replaced it. I found possible replacements here

http://www.gasapplianceguide.co.uk/liff_magnetic_inhibitor.htm

They show two options (15mm and 22mm) that look very similar to my existing one but I am not sure on the measurements. Exactly which part is the connection. I think my current model is 22mm but I am not certain as it has no product model no. on it.

Is the 22mm advertised on the website suitable for me?

Also is it possible for a novice like myself to replace instead of a plumber?
 

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Sorry but those magnetic scale inhibitors are snake-oil which achieve the square root of fluck all in combating limescale. Don't bother replacing it - the new one won't be any more effective than your existing one.

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showthread.php?t=2682255

If you want something that actually works, you either need a proper salt-and-resin water softener (which will remove existing limescale as well as preventing more building up) or a polyphos-based water conditioner such as a Combicare
 
Mike -
I have never recharged a vessel before. Is it as simple as pumping it up to 3.0 (as per the outside of the vessel says it should be) ?
 

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Turn off the water feed to the cylinder, open the hot tap and leave open. The water will flow from the hot tap for a while depending on the residual air pressure left in the vessel. Once the water stops flowing check the air pressure and top up if necessary...you'll need a foot pump or electric compressor...3 bar.
The large black cap should unscrew the valve cap but sometimes you need to prise it off and then unscrew the cap. Standard car tyre valve.
Of course you're supposed to have a G3 licence...whatevs
 
So whats the difference between recharging an external expansion vessel and an internal bubble ?
An internal bubble has the sequence posted on the cylinder and is intended to be done by the house holder, an external expansion vessel is part of the safety group and not intended to be done by the house holder
 
I forgot how dangerous it is to turn off the water open a tap and use a foot pump:rolleyes:
 
An internal bubble has the sequence posted on the cylinder and is intended to be done by the house holder, an external expansion vessel is part of the safety group and not intended to be done by the house holder[/QUOT
An internal bubble has the sequence posted on the cylinder and is intended to be done by the house holder, an external expansion vessel is part of the safety group and not intended to be done by the house holder
but by this logic you shouldn’t do the internal vessel either as you are at least holding open the tpr which is also part of the safety group?
 

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