bolt removal

[banditboy]

i have a stainless steel bolt that has snapped into an ali cylinder head,
i have an extraction kit but im not sure if it will be tough enough to move the bolt,
im also a bit concerned about drilling the s/s bolt

i have removed steel studs b4, but im worried that the extractor is going to snap, as the s/s bolt had a vast amount of pressure on it b4 it snapped,

 

[banditboy]

apparently there is a bit of kit that screws onto a bolt if there is enough left on it

 

[slick50]

I had a similar problem where a cylinder head bolt snaped off level with the engine block. I cut cross slits in the bolt with a mini tool with a tiny abrasive blade/s, to make it like a philips head. I then whacked it a couple of times with an impact screwdriver and then pushing down with heaps of pressure screwed it out. The problem is in cutting the slits because one slip left or right and it gets exspensive. It also took me three hours to do it.

 

[Stivino]

A picture would be really helpful. What size of bolt is it? How much of the bolt is there to get a grip of? I'm also curious as to why it's stainless steel because it's unusual to find them in cylinder heads.

 

[banditboy]

thanks for the replies guys

the bolt is in my motorbike engine,
the exhaust is stainless and so are the bolts, the engine is ali...the other 7 came out without any problems

i will post a pic or two tomorra,

there is around 10mm of bolt left sticking out of the block

 

[crank39]

Try one of the roller type stud extractors.......

http://www.teng.co.uk/stud-extractors-and-nut-splitters_124_pl.asp

They look similar to a sparkplug socket but have inner workings like 3 rollers the adjust themselves to whatever size stud you have and the harder you turn the harder they grip so much so if the stud is really that stuck then it will grip it enough to just twist of and snap that last 10mm you have sticking out. How about just some gentle heat first?

 

[Burnerman]

Just a thought mate but don't be hasty with this one - if it breaks again below the ally head level then it will be a real nasty to remove. How about getting a stainless 10mm nut brazed or welded to the stub sticking out, and then trying to shift it when its still hot?
John
168 BHP Blackbird

 

[Stivino]

I'd be wary about welding a nut on to the stub, some stainless steels don't weld very easily and, you don't want to loose any more of that stub. If you can get it cherry red, 10mm should be enough to get a grip of with a small stilson or a pair of vice grips. But whatever method you choose, you want it to work first time to prevent any more stub loss. Is it an 8mm thread stud?

 

[Bodgeit and scarper ltd]

get the stud remover that crank39 mentioned its a great tool.

 

[Burnerman]

I agree, it is a great tool.
These studs will more than likely be only 6mm, and maybe its a rolled thread...he needs to get it first time!
John

 

[crank39]

I'd be very wary of too much heat, i read 'cherry red' in an above post, blimey its an ali head so you dont want to warp it, i would use a paint stripping heat gun or at most one of them there little gas bunsen burner type things for stripping paint

 

[Burnerman]

Its actually for an exhaust port so warping shouldn't be an issue - I've done my fair share of these. Anyway, if the existing stud is stainless, hopefully he'll get away with it.
John

 

[banditboy]

i do like the look of those tools....

heres a couple of pics

its on the 3rd port from the left, 8mm s/s bolt

here it is with a nut welded on....failed to have enough strength though

 

[Burnerman]

So whats next, do you think? Drilling it out and retapping?
John

 

[Stivino]

So it's an 8mm stud with a 13mm nut welded on. Is it still in the same condition as the picture, i.e. with the nut still welded onto the stud?