why do I have a burning electrical smell from my drill when I use it?
burning smell
- Thread starter low drains drifter
- Start date
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As @cdbe says, could be a number of reasons but all leading to indicate drill has been overworked at some stage and not maintained.
I'm assuming its a corded 230/240 volt drill and not a cordless battery model?
First step is to check the carbon brushes. Make sure they are sliding freely in the boxes. Check for length and that they are touching the commutator fully. Is there a build up of carbon dust between the segs on the comm? Is the comm a dirty black or dark brown colour? How about the coil windings? Looking discoloured or burnt? Same with armature windings.
These are basic checks to be done before even thinking about checking resistances, earth leaks etc.
It does sound as though it has developed shorts though, and if this is the case, don't expect it to last much longer if it is in regular use.
I'm assuming its a corded 230/240 volt drill and not a cordless battery model?
First step is to check the carbon brushes. Make sure they are sliding freely in the boxes. Check for length and that they are touching the commutator fully. Is there a build up of carbon dust between the segs on the comm? Is the comm a dirty black or dark brown colour? How about the coil windings? Looking discoloured or burnt? Same with armature windings.
These are basic checks to be done before even thinking about checking resistances, earth leaks etc.
It does sound as though it has developed shorts though, and if this is the case, don't expect it to last much longer if it is in regular use.
yes, sparks at the back and smoke
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cordless battery model; I bought a replacement which I use but just wondering if it worth repairing
photo attached
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bosch green then
look the model number up and see iff brushes are a replaceable item
www.powertoolspares.com
look the model number up and see iff brushes are a replaceable item
Power Tool Spares
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Maybe take a leaf out of NutJob's book, he laughs in the face of electrical equipment that emits burning smells/smoke.
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Time to go shopping, new drill time!
Andy
Andy
Yay!!!
I would guess that the brushes will be less than a tenner but that you may pay a fiver for postage. Factor in your time to open the machine, fit the brushes (and use webrax to clean the commutator), and then reassemble the drill.
Then decide if it is worthwhile fixing it.
If you enjoy fixing things, then go for it. If the 30ish minutes to fix it deprive you from doing something else you would rather do, perhaps bin the drill.
Oh, and check the screws used to hold the body together. I have repaired bosch diy hedge trimers for friends in the past. They use regular torx screws, except for the screw buried deepest into the body, which is a torx with the security pin in the middle. The first time, I had to spend a tenner on 90mm long torx security bits (my existing set was only 25mm long).
Frankly, I don't understand how it is legal for manufacturers to make it difficult (more expensive) for owners to fix their products. My stepfather recently want to fix his Vonchef food blender. They used Philips screws and one screw that has a triangular insert on the screw head (again, another screw set very deep into the body). I didn't know what size he needed, so I spent £15 on a set of 3. He managed to fix it. I am unlikely to ever used that screw set again.
Conversely, my expensive Festool tools use the torx screws that have a slot that will accept the correct sized slotted screw driver. None of my pro tools (largely Bosch blue, Dewalt, Metabo) make it difficult for them to be repaired by the owner.
As an aside, all of my Festool tools have a small spring loaded plastic insert in the carbon brushes. When the brush wears down to a given level, the nylon insert will bounce forward and stop the tool from working. It is quite a simple and elegant solution to protect the commutator.
That said, when the insert "pops", I pull it out, safe in the knowledge that I can use the tool for up to 40(?) hours whilst I wait for the new brushes to be delivered.
Then decide if it is worthwhile fixing it.
If you enjoy fixing things, then go for it. If the 30ish minutes to fix it deprive you from doing something else you would rather do, perhaps bin the drill.
Oh, and check the screws used to hold the body together. I have repaired bosch diy hedge trimers for friends in the past. They use regular torx screws, except for the screw buried deepest into the body, which is a torx with the security pin in the middle. The first time, I had to spend a tenner on 90mm long torx security bits (my existing set was only 25mm long).
Frankly, I don't understand how it is legal for manufacturers to make it difficult (more expensive) for owners to fix their products. My stepfather recently want to fix his Vonchef food blender. They used Philips screws and one screw that has a triangular insert on the screw head (again, another screw set very deep into the body). I didn't know what size he needed, so I spent £15 on a set of 3. He managed to fix it. I am unlikely to ever used that screw set again.
Conversely, my expensive Festool tools use the torx screws that have a slot that will accept the correct sized slotted screw driver. None of my pro tools (largely Bosch blue, Dewalt, Metabo) make it difficult for them to be repaired by the owner.
As an aside, all of my Festool tools have a small spring loaded plastic insert in the carbon brushes. When the brush wears down to a given level, the nylon insert will bounce forward and stop the tool from working. It is quite a simple and elegant solution to protect the commutator.
That said, when the insert "pops", I pull it out, safe in the knowledge that I can use the tool for up to 40(?) hours whilst I wait for the new brushes to be delivered.
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