An EICR has for the ease of the non electrical person a series of codes, back in early part of this century we had a code 4, which was to inform the owner the installation did not comply with the current edition of BS7671, idea was so owner knew what would need doing before a circuit could be added to. However this was considered as confusing, and code 4 was removed, so now we add a "C" to show on the new system, and we have three main codes.
- C1 = Danger Present (FAIL)
- C2 = Potentially Dangerous (FAIL)
- C3 = Improvement Recommended.
Plus some extras.
- FI = Further Investigation Required (FAIL)
- N/V = Not Verified (Unable to verify)
- N/A = Not Applicable.
- LIM = Limitation (Not tested or inspected)
These are not linked to BS7671, however the regulation number can be given. So if you can touch some thing live it is a C1, that is not really disputed, but 230 volt is potentially dangerous, but what one is looking at is most things have to have two things go wrong for you to get a shock, if only one thing needs to go wrong, then considered as potentially dangerous.
So we have guides, The electrical safety council best practice guide
is considered a good guide as to what is, and is not reasonable. Every issue of the electrical regulations gives a date at which any new designs must follow it, it is not retrospective. There are very few items which if permitted when wired, are not permitted now, bathroom bonding requirements were changed, if all circuits in bathroom are RCD protected then most the bonding requirements have been dropped.
But if the home complied even as far back as 1960 then unless some thing has degraded or been altered it still complies. We would today like to see earths on the lights (came in 1966) and RCD protection (2008 for most of it) but looking at the list it seems OTT.
-install new water bond
Only if metal raising main.
-replace and install new DB due to poor condition incorporating RCBOs/SPD
If they want RCBO's and SPD they pay for it.
-raise 2 x sockets in kitchen as unable to use as to close to upstand
Replace with blanking plate.
-investigate high resistance reading on R2 and R2 on circuit 2
That is what the EICR is for, but OK yes likely needs doing.
-replace back box on circuit 3 as damaged
Possible, but also isolating circuit 3 would also make it safe
-replace pendant in dining room/bed 1/bed 2
-install smoke detection throughout
Not required unless multi occupation
-restest whole installation
Not required, Minor works and installation certificates will cover for any work done.
There is no way I would do that work before selling, things like a new consumer unit vary in price from £60 to £600 depending if just two RCD's or all RCBO and SPU, to fit a new CU then for new owner to rip it out and do it all again as they want a higher standard is pointless, and also you do not want to be messing around keeping frozen stuff cold.
I had similar arguments with brother-in-law on selling late father-in-laws house, the buyer want this ripped out and that ripped out, before he bought it, but the items were on the estate agents list, so if they pulled out of the sale, then all needs putting back, replacing a broken window, or smashed socket yes, but major things like fitting a new consumer unit is down to the buyer.
If he wants to offer less as he thinks he will need to do work then OK he offer less, and you decide if to accept it.